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Parts List for Build

12K views 52 replies 11 participants last post by  philistine 
#1 ·
Ok guys it is about to get really serious and I could use some help. The car is an 07 Thunder Grey (w chromaflair) CTS-V. The goal for the car is around 600hp to the wheels with tons of pull at all rpms. The mods to date include:

Part Description
Exhaust Corsa Cat back
Springs GC Coil Over (quasi)
shock/strut Cadillac FG2 Shock/strut
Skip Shift Elim Wait4Me (i think)
Axels Hendrix Eng 1000hp

Already Ordered but not on car:

Part Description
Blower Edelbrock TVS 2300
wheel Forgestar F14
Header Kooks 1 7/8" Headers (uncoated)
Cats Kooks Cats/Connectors
Shifter PISNUOFF Shifter
Shifter Bushing UUC

Part that I will be ordering within the next week:

Part Description Part Number
Header wrap DEI 10110
Starter Heat Shield DEI 10402
TPMS Sensor Dorman 974-015
Mounts/Bushings RevShift Motor Mount PMM-CTS
Mounts/Bushings RevShift Trans Mount PTI-CTSA
Mounts/Bushings Creative Steel Diff Bushing 31
Mounts/Bushings Creative Steel Diff Block 48
Fuel System adaptors Fuel hose FRA-371012
Fuel System adaptors Fuel Rail Adaptor RUS-644020
Fuel System adaptors Fuel Block RUS-650400
Fuel System adaptors Take Off Fittings RUS-670343
Fuel System adaptors AN O ring to AN Adaptor SUM-220166B
Oil Pump Melling Oil Pump MEL-10296
Head Bolt/Stud ARP Head Studs ARP-234-4317
Head Bolt/Stud ARP Head Bolts ARP-134-3609
Thread Sealer ARP Thread Sealer ARP-100-9904
Assembly Lube ARP Ultra Torque Ass. Lube ARP-100-9909
Cam Comp Custom Grind (Pat G) 13156R/13161R HR120 LSA +2 advance
- 218/238 .598"/.615" 120 LSA +2 adv
Lifters Stock LS7 12499225
Lifter Tray Stock LS2 12595365
Pushrods Trend 3/8”-5/16”, 0.135” wall TBD
Front cover gasket Stock LS2 12633904
Head LSA Head 12610716
Intake valve LSA Stock 12605223
Exhaust valve LSA Stock 12582719
Exhaust valve GM 1.59" Sodium Filled exh 12605525
Rockers Yella Terra YT 6667
Valve Cover Gasket Yella Terra YT 5132
Spring kit Brian Tooley .65" Duals sk002
Head Gasket LS9 Head Gasket 12622033
Plug Wires Taylor Cable 98006
Plug Sox DEI 10542
Plugs NGK TR6IX 3689
Heat sheaths DEI 10403
Clutch Kit katech LS9R KAT-A6189
Remote Bleeder Katech KAT-A4824

If you see anything missing and would recommend a different part let me know but provide an explanation for your receommendation.

Also, I have a few things areas where I really can't make up my mind...

First, to wrap or not to wrap. The headers are uncoated. Kooks recommends the headers NOT be wrapped and NOT be coated. I am afraid that wires, hoses, and etc. could be damages. Everyone seems to have there on opinion of this subject but are there certain hoses/wires/etc. that I should heat sheild if I leave these unwrapped. I already have high temp plug wires and cool sox and a starter blanket.

Second, are head studs that much better. I'm an EE not ME and I really am having a hard time believeing that the studs are worth the extra cheddar ($130). Also the thought of the studs becoming an obstruction in the engine bay is an additional cause of concern. This is a spirited daily driver with some autocross and an OCCASIONAL track trip car. SHould I really go stud vs bolt?

Third, would you go with the solid exhaust valve or the sodium filled. The sodium filled obviously shed heat much better but I am afraid they are also more delicate.

Fourth, I have seen some users having issues with the Katech LS9R clutch. What else would you recommend?

Any suggestions on where to purchase the parts is welcome as well. Summit seems to have a little higher prices but they have almost everything I need. I will be doing a ton of research on this as I don't want to waste time or money.

Thanks in advance for any help.

BTW - forged pistons/bottom is the next step in mod hell.

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Well that sux. All of the formatting disappeared. I'll try to post an image as well to make it easier to read.
 
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#34 ·
Do you know what the max the SC can give? 200Hp over stock is really good! I'm looking at the Mcleod RST clutch for ~600hp. The local speedshop did extensive tests with McLeod clutches specifically with the early model CTS-V's. The tests showed the RXT Mcleod gave lots of chatter and the aluminum flywheel was a DD disaster - go with steel, ~33lb. I have another dyno session (sigh) and plan to discuss the E-force in more detail. Can you give the speedshop you're working with for more info??? I'm working with SpeedSouth and OSTdyno (located in PA).
 
#40 ·
The tune is a blended tune right now. Again this is just roughed in until the clutch, flywheel, and IAT stuff is ready. I am following in your footsteps for the HE (bigger pump - the supplied Bosch was about 6gpm and the Mezeire is 20gpm). I will be going with the super chiller as well.

I didn't get a chance to get into a lot of detail with the tuner as I left his shop around 8:00pm the night before I left for vacation. Once I get these issues straightened out I will sit down with him and review all of the data and determine any weak points that need addressing. He seems to think there is a good bit more on the table. Adding 4 degrees of timing added 60hp so if I can get the IATs down I think we'll find a few more ponies.
 
#38 ·
Well I have put approx 450 miles on the RXT with 13.5 lbs flywheel and even with a tune that has NOT been adjusted for the flywheel I only get occasional chatter on 1st gear engagement (like 1 in 100 engagements). This thing revs soooooo much quicker now that I am very happy with the decision.
 
#39 ·
Sorry this has taken so long but after I got the car back I went on vacation without the car :( Then promptly entered the hospital with pneumonia. Hopefully I can get out soon and finish the clutch break in.

The image below includes some of the preliminary measurements during the tune with the top tune being what is in the car now. As mentioned, IATs are an issue and I have a Mezeire pump ordered to address the issues. This was also done prior to clutch and lightweight flywheel install so I will be bringing it back to my tuner for final tweaks soon.



Max Hp of 555.9 at 6050 rpm and max torque of 545 around 3050. This is all with 5.5lbs of boost so not too shabby. I hope to get this thing to 600hp when it is all said and done but couldn't be happier with the power I have now.

If I get froggy later on I will forge the bottom and up the boost but that will be a way down the road.
 
#41 ·
I HAVE FOUND THE DEFINITIVE CURE FOR WHEEL HOP









































MORE HORSEPOWER. 500 miles on the McLeod RXT, blower, cam, heads, headers, and a myriad of other mods plus 3000 rpm clutch dump and a burnout through 4th gear without a hint of wheel hop. Its not going to be an everyday occurrence but it was a ton of fun. Now to figure out how to get the power to the ground without grenading the rear end.
 
#42 ·
That's awesome!!! I just installed the Mezeire pump as well and my temps are on e again right at 10*-15* above ambient even when getting on it. I just finished installing new heads and a cam and am now starting to tune it. I was able to add a LOT more timing down low with the 317 heads and it drives sooo much nicer now.

I also moved up to the 3.25" pulley and may even go 3" for S&G's to see how it feels.

Sure is fun, isn't it?
 
#43 ·
I thought I wanted boost around 8lbs when I started this but when it came in at 5.5lbs with a 3.875" pulley and lots of hp I decided to roll with what I had for a while but... When you settle on a pulley let me know and I will likely take one of the unwanted ones off your hands. Like I said 8lbs is really where I think I want to be.

I am not very familiar with the 317s. Do they have the swirl vane in the port? Anyway once I get the Mezeire in (which should have happened this weekend - damn pneumonia sux) I'll get it back for the final tune and post some updated numbers.
 
#44 ·
The 317's are what was installed on the 6.0 LQ4/9 motors that went into GM trucks and vans. They have the exact same ports as the 243 and 799 style heads that came on the V1's, only with 72cc combustion chambers for lower static compression ratios. So, they stage III heads with a larger chamber.

My E-Force came with the 3" pulley which is the smallest they offer...it was WAY too much and I ended up getting every one they had lol. The 3.5" was as far as I could go with the stock heads and am now on the 3.25" pulley which is netting a tad over 10 lbs of boost at 6200 RPM. Let me know when you want the 3.5" and I'll send it your way.

I'm not going to do the "killer chiller" or whatever it's called, my HEX system holds just over a gallon of coolant and the IAT temps are still 10*-15* within ambient temps in most driving. The highest they've hit was 112* in stop and go traffic with the AC on...and this is with the air filter open to the engine compartment. I've got to shield it but I haven't had time to get to the sheet metal shop and bend something up yet. Make sure you get "water wetter" or something similar...it works well.

Hope you're feeling better soon...I had pneumonia once and it knocked me on my ass for three weeks.
 
#46 ·
FINALLY DOUBLE DIGIT IATs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was running the Edelbrock 15406 HE, Bosch TMAP, and the Bosch 6 gpm pump that came with the kit. Now the Frozen Boost type 101 HE, Bosch TMap but with my own Omega temp sensor, and a Mezeire 24 gpm pump. All of these were utilized by DMM in his build. I saw his posts and thought why in the H@77 is he doing that? If you do the Eforce just take my word for it and follow his approach.

To complicate things further on my car my tuner had entered bad data into one of the cells of the resistance vs temp table. He entered 160 degrees in the spot that should be 110ish. So while logging IATs I would always get this big spike then fall off then slowly creep back toward 160 degrees. I couldn't figure this out to begin with because I would pull over and check the intercooler coolant and it would be very near atmospheric temp (nowhere near the 160). After getting back in the car and driving for a while the temps would creep toward a legitimate 140 degrees. After buying HP Tuners and digging through the tune I found the erroneous data. To give my tuner a bit of a break, the data on the Edelbrock website that provides the resistance vs F temp is incorrect (use the resistance vs C temp table and convert it to F). He noticed it and quit entering data but he inadvertently left that one cell :banghead::banghead:

Last night with atmospheric temps at 70 degrees the car, after thoroughly heatsoaking the engine (1 hour drive, 30 minute park, then drive and log) IATs started at 126 degrees (startup) and then fell to below 90 degrees (65 mph cruise on open interstate)

One thing I did that DMM did not is use two of the Frozen Boost electric fans behind the HE. My fan controller hasn't come in yet but the fans are installed on the HE. The fans are for bumping around in traffic. They will likley be set for a 110 degree activation with 100 degree deactivate. The controller is on a slow boat from China (literally) so it may take a while. In the mean time this thing is now finally ready to go back to the tuner.

Phili,

I am running a DW 300 with Kenne Bell BAP. So far no issues with fueling (I am a little surprised). I haven't paid a lot of attention to injector utilization percentages but I don't remember seeing anything over 70%. My kit came with 60lbs injectors and I have the BAP running wide open all of the time (no place for a hobbs switch currently).
 
#47 ·
Phili,

I am running a DW 300 with Kenne Bell BAP. So far no issues with fueling (I am a little surprised). I haven't paid a lot of attention to injector utilization percentages but I don't remember seeing anything over 70%. My kit came with 60lbs injectors and I have the BAP running wide open all of the time (no place for a hobbs switch currently).
I purchased the DW 300 which seems to run 320lph with low amperes. Lonnies Performance (from LS1tech) informed me that the bulkhead connector on the bucket is only good for 13 amps - I'm guessing that wire is 18awg. I don't know what's involved with modifying that connector to 10 or 12 awg. I know the Racetronix hotwire kit is 10awg which is fine but that doesn't solve the limiting factor of the bulkhead connector. I'm an ME not a EE so my knowledge of circuits tells me that there is potential of too much resistance using a BAP - please correct me if I'm wrong. So I was wondering if you made any other modifications to "balance" the load with your fueling e.g. modifying the wires in the bucket.

Thanks!
 
#48 ·
Philli,

Good catch! I had the same concerns after seeing what the hot wire kit included (which i did not purchase BTW). The 10 gauge is overkill for a BAP on a DW300. From memory, 16 gauge was what was required (I did look it up with NEC). I had Caspers build up a special pigtail to handle the 16 gauge. The bulkhead connector is still the weak link. I don't have an easy way to correct that at the moment (let me know if you do) and that is why I want to get the Hobbs switch working. With current heat is the killer (actually power dissipated in the wire itself). If I can significantly reduce the time the bulkhead connector is carrying full current (which will reduce heating) then I believe there won't be issues. My current get me by solution is just that a get me by until I can get the tuning completed. In the end I may drill the bulkhead connector, route the wires straight through, and seal with epoxy putty. The reason I did not take this approach initially is that I had my mechanic swap the pump as I couldn't get it loose myself without the tool (at least prior to the rough tuning session). Now I have the tool so I can get back in there and do whatever I want.
 
#49 ·
That's awesome man! Glad to hear that everything is working out for you! I'd like to take a peek at your tune if you don't mind, I know that after tuning mine I was able to add a LOT of timing down low after swapping the heads which lowered compression. From what I have seen, most tuners cut a huge area in the low air mass/RPM areas in the timing map and it just makes it a dog to drive. Also, how are you tuning? Lambda I hope.
 
#50 ·
I will be getting my tuner back involved as soon as he breaks free. Calling today. Once he gets things squared away I will be glad to share the tune. In terms of his tuning approach, I can't really answer. He was indicated as the best this side of Atlanta and possibly better than most of those guys as well. At least with LS engines. It is really too early on mine to tell much other than IATs were a major problem. I am hoping this will let us tune accurately as we were seeing some odd things. KR showing up with cooler IATs and going away with hotter (all other parameters appeared comparable).

I decided to let him tune with the small pulley and then I will tune for the larger pulley I got from you. That way he can get it locked in on the small pulley and I can learn with the larger (much fewer variables as he will have already tuned for the new cam, heads, exhaust, injectors). Anyway, I am finally making a little progress :)
 
#51 ·
We I finally got it back from the tuner. There are still a few driveability issues at part throttle to work but nothing too severe at this point.

Anyway with what he called a MAX SAFE TUNE (which is what I asked for) she made 602 ft/lbs and 626hp with a torque curve that looks more like a straight line than a curve. Graph below.



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