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Interest in Delrin Cradle Bushings ?

22K views 163 replies 31 participants last post by  Junior1 
#1 ·
I did some talking to the guy doing some fab work on my car about the Rear Cradle bushing inserts like SW used to sell.
He can get the delrin material and have them machined up if there is still a market for them.
Cost-wise it would make sense to do like 10 sets at a time and if my math was correct, between the materials and labor they would be around $275 (give or take) shipped per set...


What do you guys think? Still people out there that need them?
Group Buy or something...
 
#114 ·
Nice writeup above. I'm going to hold off on installing mine until I put the 9" rear kit in. The only problem is I won't really be able to attribute any difference in feel to the bushings themselves. That said, I won't be complaining about that. :)
 
#117 ·
I started a new thread for the 06/07 design. GP is in the works as long as there is enough interest...
 
#119 ·
I don't know if thats common. I had no alignment issues. Mine were done at Lindsay on a lift and it was a pretty straightforward install. Actually drove the car down to Charlotte that afternoon when it was finished...
 
#120 ·
I needed an alignment. I think most places give a free check and only charge you if you need it. I know the guys at the shop I took mine to. I had an alignment just 3 months ago. The only thing that changed was installing the rear cradle bushings. I only decided to get it aligned because of how much I had to manipulate the cradle to get the rear bushings in (closest to the trunk).
 
#121 ·
Good to know. I guess its best to take some measurements before and after to assure proper alignment. Nothing on the toe rods are being touched so if it is in any different position you will know.
 
#125 ·
Got it. They're going out on Monday

I think 2 or 3 sets are left...He made as many as he could with the material
 
#127 ·
Its possible, depending on the setup but keep in mind a throttle lift at mid-corner will create instability even in a spec miata. You are transferring weight from the rear of the car to the front of the car. That in turn adds grip to the front tires thus causing oversteer...hope that makes sense
 
#131 · (Edited)
Junior, I'm just guessing here, but on cars with firmer suspesion, they don't telegraph as much before you lose grip. With wobblier suspension bits, you will get body roll and other feedback that will tell you "holy shit" before the back walks out. I would imagine with the firmer bushings, you wouldn't be getting as much of that shimmy/wobble that would ordinarily be in indication to back off the throttle. Perhaps this in part is what happened to philistine.
This is exactly what I'm talking about. I've been driving it differently trying to get used to it. The rear doesn't communicate like it used to therefore my T/C comes on a lot more. As for the throttle lift at mid turn...im usually conservative but this is the first the tail snapped on me - I can't hear/feel the rear anymore - it will take some getting used to.

Sure hamstar without a doubt its going to change that feel and probably faster too. Not as drastic of a change as say a swaybar or something.
In my case that allowed me to drive harder as I had better feedback which I think may have been the case with philistine. He was just able to reach that limit alot faster now. As he said he was driving harder than normal. Couple it with the throttle lift at that point and it may have upset the whole car..
Not sure about the feedback but I am a amateur. You are right, I am reaching the limit a lot faster now and definitely driving it harder than normal. I really have to get used to the rear. This reminds me a lot of driving my S2k, the rear-end feels the same - just wasn't expecting it from the caddy.

Just a FYI...this is not from street driving.
 
#133 ·
This is exactly what I'm talking about. I've been driving it differently trying to get used to it. The rear doesn't communicate like it used to therefore my T/C comes on a lot more. As for the throttle lift at mid turn...im usually conservative but this is the first the tail snapped on me - I can't hear/feel the rear anymore - it will take some getting used to.


Not sure about the feedback but I am a amateur. You are right, I am reaching the limit a lot faster now and definitely driving it harder than normal. I really have to get used to the rear. This reminds me a lot of driving my S2k, the rear-end feels the same - just wasn't expecting it from the caddy.

Just a FYI...this is not from street driving.
Great real-world feedback. How's your wheelhop?
 
#135 ·
HAMSTAR said:
Junior, I'm just guessing here, but on cars with firmer suspesion, they don't telegraph as much before you lose grip. With wobblier suspension bits, you will get body roll and other feedback that will tell you "holy shit" before the back walks out. I would imagine with the firmer bushings, you wouldn't be getting as much of that shimmy/wobble that would ordinarily be in indication to back off the throttle. Perhaps this in part is what happened to philistine.
I agree. Max grip won't change, but you're tightening the tolerance from initial stress of suspension components to max stress.
 
#137 ·
Still got a few sets left if anyone still needs. A little bit quicker to install and a lot less trouble...
 
#141 ·
Yes, they are ready to go and they ship out USPS in the small flat rate box...
 
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#147 ·
Yes.
It should sit flush with the cradle all around the mounting points and the washer will sit flat against the bushing.
Without any gaps

Some pics I found

 
#149 · (Edited)
There are 2 different sets. One long tab and one short tab.
They may be reversed or need to be adjusted so that the tabs offset each other by 90 degrees, they interlock (ie the tabs on the top fill 1 set of voids and the tabs on the bottom fill the other voids.
It looks to me like you have both long tabs from top and bottom hitting each other and creating the gap or they need to be rotated 90 degrees. Once the tabs go into the voids on each side there is no gaps...

Link to the faq install just incase http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/bushinginstall/index.html
 
#150 ·
I will look when I get home.
What I was trying to show was that the current stock gap between the subframe and washer with no bushing installed is just over 9mm. The bushing is 13mm thick and not physically able to fit in that void with out sticking out a couple MM. Can you measure your other set and see if they are all the same ?
 
#151 ·
I don't have the sets, he ships them.
But what I'm saying is that the stock gap should be covered up by the new bushing. Regardless if the bushing itself is thicker, it should all be flush once together. The bushing should sit flush up into the cradle all around and then the washer sits up against the other side of the bushing flush all around.
If your washer is bending as you tighten it up then one side is getting hung up and not tightening up evenly

 
#152 ·
OK, did some more looking. As you can see the bushing is taller than the stock one. So when I tighten it down the middle of the stock washer has a gap and therefore deforms. The bottom picture is not fully seated so the gap is more pronounced. From how I understand you the delrin bushing should be in-line with the stock metal sleeve.



 
#153 ·
So what you're saying is the washer is pulling into that void in the center and bowing the washer up on the edges? Is it happening on both sides or just the one? That would be the telltale sign because it may just be installed wrong.
You'll have to drop it to make sure the tops and bottoms aren't reversed or vise versa.
 
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