2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Header Question (and more) in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; First off, I want to say this site is awesome. I've been lurking/reading for a while and I've found a ...
- 09-02-12 11:30 AM #1Cadillac Owners Member
- Automobile(s): LS6 CTS-V
- Join Date
- Sep 2012
Header Question (and more)
First off, I want to say this site is awesome. I've been lurking/reading for a while and I've found a wealth of information. The CTS-V is a
new purchase and the dealership sucked. They refused to fix the power seats (both of them had no power) so I Googled power seat failure and this sit popped up. Turns out my power seat wire under the driver seat was rubbing against a metal bracket and shorted. The
freaking fuse in the back seat was searing hot (I know because I was an idiot and tried to pull it). Anyway, fixing it was a seriously
proud moment. I'm a total moron when it comes to automotive tasks.
Now my questions:
I have a tire pressure warning indicator on my dash. It's only reading the right side tires and the right rear tire reading is false (it's
indicating 36psi). There's nothing on the left side. I thought it was the tire pressure sensors so I bought three of them and just replaced
them yesterday (used the automotive skill center on a military base). It's still not picking them up so I just wasted $200. Do you guys
have any ideas as to my next move? I know the sensors aren't really necessary since I'm not running run flats but the stupid warning
indicator is getting on my nerves. I believe I read an older post on this site about pulling the fuse to stop the warning indicator. Would
you all recommend that route if all else fails?
My performance mods will be run of the mill. They will be: light weight flywheel, shifter (probably the modded stocker), shifter bushings,
LS7 clutch eventually, cam (I have no idea what they do so I have a lot of homework to do), cam springs, CAI, rear diff/axle hop kit,
and potentially new mufflers. I believe the car has Kooks headers currently (I had the car on a lift yesterday to change the tire sensors.A metal clamp on exhaust had "Kooks" on it). Should I get rid of the Kooks headers and get a smaller diameter header? The car currentlyhas Magnaflow headers but I'm thinking about taking them off. They emit a little drone that's driving me crazy. I'm thinking about getting
Corsa mufflers instead. I'm never going to race on public streets but I would like to get from 0-60 in the the low to mid 4's. Will the
above mods get me to my goal? Of course all the torque/horsepower in the world will be for naught until I master the manual
transmission. I just learned how to drive stick about a week ago when I bought the car. Kind of embarrassing I know.
Thanks for any and all advice/comments.
- 09-02-12 03:58 PM #2
Re: Header Question (and more)
Internet forum tip - You don't need to hit RETURN when you get to the end of the text box you're typing in. The forum will automatically wrap the words for us, and that way it will look normal for everyone else, regardless of what screen size we've got.
This site has all sorts of useful information on it (throw that one in your Favorites ), including this process to program the sensors with nothing but your key fob. It only takes a couple/few minutes to do it, or you can take the car to the dealer and let them charge you $50 or whatever to do it with their little programmer. I recommend doing yourself for free.'05 Stealth Grey CTS-V, 19x8.5/10" CCW T140s with Toyo Proxes T1 Sports (summer), black Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2 wheels with 275/35-18 R-compounds (track), Hyperblack Rota Torques (winter), KW Variant3s, V2 front brakes, Hotchkis rear sway bar, EPS cam, TEA-ported 243 heads, FAST92 intake w/LS2 TB, JBA Camaro/G8 1-3/4" shorty headers w/JBA cat pipes, Corsa exhaust, UUC motor and tranny mounts, UUC shifter, MAPerformance trailing arms, Specter cradle bushings, etc...
- 09-02-12 05:03 PM #3
Re: Header Question (and more)
Do a tire program relearn, which would be like:
# 1) key in RUN, engine off
# 2) park brake set, cluster on pressure display
# 3) press and hold BOTH the LOCK and UNLOCK SIMULTANEOUSLY for about 10 secs until the horn honks. (on the Keyless Entry remote)
# 4) let air out of (or put air into) Left front tire until you hear another horn honk (only let the air our for about 3-5 seconds.... then be patient and wait for the honk... it could take up to 20-30 seconds before it honks)
# 5) repeat on Right Front tire
# 6) repeat on Right Rear tire
# 7) repeat on Left Rear tire
# 8) after left rear tire you should hear a double honk and the process is complete
# 9) verify the pressures on the cluster display
You can also hold a decent magnet to the pressure sensor on each wheel until the horn honk too instead of putting or releasing air, IIRC.
Bolt ons and Bolt ins, and Bolt underneaths.