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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, $hit just got real! in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; I just rebent it......apparently I just became cheap lol. Where's the fuel pump fuse? I want to pull that and ...
  1. #91
    lollygagger8's Avatar
    lollygagger8 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    I just rebent it......apparently I just became cheap lol.

    Where's the fuel pump fuse? I want to pull that and unplug the coils and turn it over today. I took day off and I'm in garage. Just started.


    I went to Deftones and System of a Down concert last night......working on pure adrenaline right now. Couldn't sleep!

    Tuner (Brent from Lingenfelter, used to work for EPP) is supposed to tune it tomorrow after work. Gotta bust ass to get this ready for Woodward on Saturday! (shut it Randy!)

  2. #92
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Passenger-side rear fuse box under seat. Fuse may be lableled FUEL PUMP MTR.

    As an alternative, in the under the hood fuse box there two fuses ODD/INJ/COIL and EVEN/INJ/COIL which disable both the ignition coils and fuel injectors for each bank.

  3. #93
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    Passenger-side rear fuse box under seat. Fuse may be lableled FUEL PUMP MTR.

    As an alternative, in the under the hood fuse box there two fuses ODD/INJ/COIL and EVEN/INJ/COIL which disable both the ignition coils and fuel injectors for each bank.
    My man!! Thank you Sir!!! I like the under the hood option.....THANK YOU

  4. #94
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    HELP!

    Does this look right?? The long hose will go into the air intake tube that I haven't drilled yet.

    Valley Cover to Intake.

    Valve cover to top of Oil Catch.

    Oil Catch lower to air intake tube (not drilled yet)



    I tried to copy this...
    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...version-2.html

  5. #95
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Nope.

    The line that originates at the valley cover goes to the top of the catch can.
    The line that originates from lower part of the catch can goes to the intake (downstream (inside) of the throttlebody).
    The line from the passenger side valve covers goes to the NEW opening in the intake tube (upstream of the throttlebody.)

  6. #96
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Better??


  7. #97
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Bingo!
    lollygagger8 and lollygagger8 like this.

  8. #98
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Is this correct? There's no inlets on the Nick Williams TB.


  9. #99
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by lollygagger8 View Post
    Is this correct? There's no inlets on the Nick Williams TB.

    Yes, that is correct.

  10. #100
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by NC-V View Post
    Yes, that is correct.
    Thanks!!!

    Got it all back together, Oil in, Coolant in.

    My tuner said he doesnt want me to start it until he tunes it since it has bigger (36lb injectors) Does that sound right?

    I still plan on cranking it over (removing coil/fuel fuse) to make sure there's no crazy noises......here's hoping

  11. #101
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Well the tuner is right about the injectors, but there is another variable. Specifically, you are supposed to heat cylce the valve springs by: (a) warming up the engine to full operating temperature at low rpm; (b) shutting off the engine and allowing it to get stone cold. The rule about driving the car with larger injectors than it is tuned for is based on the risk that the larger injectors will wash down the cylinders with fuel and do bad things to the piston rings.

    So, in theory you should install the old injectors and do the heat cycle thing. And then install the new injectors for the tuner. You might ask the tuner if he thinks it is safe to do the heat cycle with the larger injectors since you will only run the car a few minutes at relatively low rpm.

    Finally, if it will not idle, and you have to hold down the throttle a bit to keep it running you may throw a code, but it is harmless. The ECM throws a code if the throttle position mismatches the wheel speed (in this case zero mph).

  12. #102
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    Well the tuner is right about the injectors, but there is another variable. Specifically, you are supposed to heat cylce the valve springs by: (a) warming up the engine to full operating temperature at low rpm; (b) shutting off the engine and allowing it to get stone cold. The rule about driving the car with larger injectors than it is tuned for is based on the risk that the larger injectors will wash down the cylinders with fuel and do bad things to the piston rings.

    So, in theory you should install the old injectors and do the heat cycle thing. And then install the new injectors for the tuner. You might ask the tuner if he thinks it is safe to do the heat cycle with the larger injectors since you will only run the car a few minutes at relatively low rpm.

    Finally, if it will not idle, and you have to hold down the throttle a bit to keep it running you may throw a code, but it is harmless. The ECM throws a code if the throttle position mismatches the wheel speed (in this case zero mph).
    Say it isn't so......


  13. #103
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Ask Mamo if his springs need heat cycled.

  14. #104
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    Ask Mamo if his springs need heat cycled.
    He said they don't need to be heat cycled...whew.

    I'm all back together and I'll wait for my tuner to get here tomorrow. Can't wait!!!

    So I have the fuses pulled.....Can I crank 'er over a few times to make sure there's nothing out of whack??

  15. #105
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Yes. I don't think starting it will do any harm - your injectors aren't that big, but it should run pig-rich. I don't think the tuner wants to watch you troubleshoot tomorrow if it won't start.
    lollygagger8 and lollygagger8 like this.

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