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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, $hit just got real! in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; So what kind of balancer pulley am I going to need? Is there a special one ? Are there 3 ...
  1. #16
    lollygagger8's Avatar
    lollygagger8 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    So what kind of balancer pulley am I going to need? Is there a special one ? Are there 3 holes to grab onto? Or what?

    I know our harmonic balancers aren't keyed to the crank, so I'm guessing I should mark where I take it off, correct??

    I have the instructions from this thread (thanks Darkman) http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...lure-help.html

    But what are the torque specs/ procedure?

  2. #17
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Also, Mamo wants me to use some Johnson lifters (says they are better than LS7) and hardened push rods (I have to figure out length first)

    What do you guys think about lifters? LS7 good enough? Or spend the coin on Johnson lifters that are supposed to be better?

  3. #18
    darkman's Avatar
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by lollygagger8 View Post
    So what kind of balancer pulley am I going to need? Is there a special one ? Are there 3 holes to grab onto? Or what?

    I know our harmonic balancers aren't keyed to the crank, so I'm guessing I should mark where I take it off, correct??

    I have the instructions from this thread (thanks Darkman) http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...lure-help.html

    But what are the torque specs/ procedure?
    I will defer to others on the best removal tool since I have never pulled mine. I have read a lot threads about problems on reinstallation of the balancer (yes, you should make the position before you pull it.). The biggest risk on reinstallation is stripping the threads inside the crankshaft. That occurs when folks try to pull the balancer onto the crank (interference fit) using the old crank bolt. This method often strips the crankshaft internal threads because only some of the threads are engaged. The proper method is to use a tool (see the link below) which engages all of the crankshaft threads before the pulling-on process starts.

    http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...eviews_id=1082

    The PDF you have gives the torque values. If you use an ARP crankbolt (recommended) the torque is different.

  4. #19
    darkman's Avatar
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by lollygagger8 View Post
    Also, Mamo wants me to use some Johnson lifters (says they are better than LS7) and hardened push rods (I have to figure out length first)

    What do you guys think about lifters? LS7 good enough? Or spend the coin on Johnson lifters that are supposed to be better?

    How expensive are the Johnson lifters?

    http://ls1tech.com/forums/16290740-post11.html

  5. #20
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by Skidmarcx View Post
    Lol like the title
    Every day this week looking at the forum, this title has cracked me up.

    In my minds eye, I'm picturing Lolly with an expression on his face of "AWWW YEAHH!" excitement mixed in with some "HARUMPH" determiniation.

    Still LOLing.

    -Chris
    2005 CTS-V:No Roof|T2+Eibachs|Corsa|UUC:Shifter, 2pc rotors, B-Lines, Motor/Tran Mounts, Diff Bushings|LPE CAI|FFV IntakeTube|Hotchkis Sways|Kooks 1.75 Coated LTs+cats|KARS III |Mamofied Fast90 + NW90|224/228 111+0 XFI/XE-R .609/.588+Dual Springs|ATI 25% UD Pulley|YT 1.7" UltraLites|Melling HiFlow OP|Cloyes Hex Adjust Timing Set|Lucas 42# Flow Matched Injectors|Katech LS9X Twin-Disk ClutchMustang Dyno Tuned (SAE): 412rwhp / 380 rwtq
    2012 CTS-V:No Roof|Wagon|M6|Recaros|Bone stock (for now)

  6. #21
    PISNUOFF Guest

    Re: $hit just got real!

    Removing the pulley is the worst part of the job. You have to use a 3 jaw gear puller and it'll keep slipping off the pulley. You need 4 hands and there isn't room for two people. I've had to modify the 'grippers' for three that I've done.

  7. #22
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    How expensive are the Johnson lifters?

    http://ls1tech.com/forums/16290740-post11.html
    Good question. 30 seconds on google didn't get a price. Looks like they are supplier and not a seller.

    I wonder how those compare to morels in terms of cost (morels aint cheap!) and performance?

    Would be nice to find a quality lifter that doesn't kill the budget.

    -Chris
    2005 CTS-V:No Roof|T2+Eibachs|Corsa|UUC:Shifter, 2pc rotors, B-Lines, Motor/Tran Mounts, Diff Bushings|LPE CAI|FFV IntakeTube|Hotchkis Sways|Kooks 1.75 Coated LTs+cats|KARS III |Mamofied Fast90 + NW90|224/228 111+0 XFI/XE-R .609/.588+Dual Springs|ATI 25% UD Pulley|YT 1.7" UltraLites|Melling HiFlow OP|Cloyes Hex Adjust Timing Set|Lucas 42# Flow Matched Injectors|Katech LS9X Twin-Disk ClutchMustang Dyno Tuned (SAE): 412rwhp / 380 rwtq
    2012 CTS-V:No Roof|Wagon|M6|Recaros|Bone stock (for now)

  8. #23
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    Re: $hit just got real!


  9. #24
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    How expensive are the Johnson lifters?
    Mamo wants me to buy some "semi limited travel race clip Johnson Lifters for $475...which I think is absolutely outrageous.

    I called my speed shop guy and he said 2110R (for LSx) Johnson Lifters are $395 for the set. Still crazy priced compared to an LS7 lifter ($140)

    Quote Originally Posted by PISNUOFF View Post
    Removing the pulley is the worst part of the job. You have to use a 3 jaw gear puller and it'll keep slipping off the pulley. You need 4 hands and there isn't room for two people. I've had to modify the 'grippers' for three that I've done.
    Awesome. What did you do to modify them?

    I bought a longer Fastenal grade 10 bolt for the removal/install.....does it matter that the threads don't go all the way up?


    Quote Originally Posted by trukk View Post
    Good question. 30 seconds on google didn't get a price. Looks like they are supplier and not a seller.

    I wonder how those compare to morels in terms of cost (morels aint cheap!) and performance?

    Would be nice to find a quality lifter that doesn't kill the budget.

    -Chris
    ^Ya, this^
    I'm thinking for all the extra cash, am I really gaining any performance? I'm kind of at a loss here.

  10. #25
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    That bolt won't work. You need threads on most of the length. Most folks start with M6.00 X 2.00 threaded rod about 6 inches (150mm in length). You can get a longer threaded rod and cut it down.

    LS7 lifters use a cast body; Morels use a single billet body, cost around $500, and have a well established reputation in the performance market; the Johnson's use a "special material" cast body (based on a pdf I found online) and do not have an established reputation in the performance market yet-they just expanded into that market. The LS7s have a pretty good reliabilty record. I do not recall the lift on your cam, but any cam that can live with Yella Terra's should not be a "lifter killer." If Mamo wants to try Johnsons, I am sure they are fine, but at the price point I would either get the Morels or stick with LS7s and put the money elsewhere. But it is your money and your call.

  11. #26
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    That bolt won't work. You need threads on most of the length. Most folks start with M6.00 X 2.00 threaded rod about 6 inches (150mm in length). You can get a longer threaded rod and cut it down.
    Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuudge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the heads up though boss.

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    LS7 lifters use a cast body; Morels use a single billet body, cost around $500, and have a well established reputation in the performance market; the Johnson's use a "special material" cast body (based on a pdf I found online) and do not have an established reputation in the performance market yet-they just expanded into that market. The LS7s have a pretty good reliabilty record. I do not recall the lift on your cam, but any cam that can live with Yella Terra's should not be a "lifter killer." If Mamo wants to try Johnsons, I am sure they are fine, but at the price point I would either get the Morels or stick with LS7s and put the money elsewhere. But it is your money and your call.
    227/231 + 114 LSA is the cam I'm getting. .613 intake lift /.617 exhaust lift

    At that price point I'm really not willing to spend that much. Especially since LS7 lifters are waaaay cheaper and have a good track record.

  12. #27
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Ok NW 102 TB calls for a 4.25" coupler, and my Volant air intake tube is right about 3.75"......



    So will I have to get a 4.5" to 4"?? Will that be too big? Or what should I do here?

    http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...60213a0382a60d

    They weren't any help when I emailed them. Does anyone else make custom pieces, or is there a different website you guys know of?

  13. #28
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Taken from ls1howto.com.....
    Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley. You may need a 2-3 foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once it's broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time.

    Since I bought this bolt.....does it matter that it's not threaded all the way down if I only have to thread it in 4 turns? Or am I going to have to use the stock bolt?

  14. #29
    Oh5V is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/mer...gory_Code=RSS1

    that's a 4.25" to 4" coupler, probably your best bet.

    then get this..

    http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/mer...egory_Code=RIS


    I've purchased stuff from this site before with no issues, along with from the site you originally posted.

  15. #30
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    Re: $hit just got real!

    Quote Originally Posted by Oh5V View Post
    http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/mer...gory_Code=RSS1

    that's a 4.25" to 4" coupler, probably your best bet.

    then get this..

    http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/mer...egory_Code=RIS


    I've purchased stuff from this site before with no issues, along with from the site you originally posted.
    I need a 90 degree elbow, and there's no pic. Is this just a straight piece?

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