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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Free expert advice department (that's all you other CTS-V owners!) in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; So the Maggie 112 is on, OBX 1 7/8 headers and resonators on (with stock exhaust) 10/% overdrive harmonic balancer ...
  1. #1
    leosul@verizon.net is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
    Automobile(s): 06 CTS-V
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    Free expert advice department (that's all you other CTS-V owners!)

    So the Maggie 112 is on, OBX 1 7/8 headers and resonators on (with stock exhaust) 10/% overdrive harmonic balancer on. I got cussed out big time for buying the Racetronix in tank fuel pump, but I TOLD them dropping the tank was not going to be any fun! Anyway, they finished that today also. That's a lot of work in 2 days for one mechanic and one helper, I think. UUC shifter and Hendrix axles/CVs go on tomorrow. I guess I got talked out of the "canned tune" idea. Mechanic has connections with a dyno shop and thinks we can get it in pretty quick. So to me you are all experts because this is the first time for me with any of these mods.
    1. I know the air/fuel ratio will need be changed, probably by a lot
    2. Timing-advanced, if I'm not mistaken?
    3. "tune out" the CAGS yeah, I already bought one, but who knew?
    4. Should I go with a lower thermo, like 160 degrees?
    5. Injectors are 40#, just to keep that straight
    6. All wires are bundled and tied up away from headers, headers also wrapped
    7. I was told "OK to drive short distance in stock tune, but NO BOOST!
    8. Original platinum plugs in place-should they be replaced?
    9. And anything else anyone may care to suggest would be appreciated.
    10. Lingenfelter CAI purchased used on another forum
    11. Do I need a boost gauge

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  3. #2
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Free expert advice department (that's all you other CTS-V owners!)

    I bought a 160 degree thermometer on someone's advice here on the forums, and after the fact, I was told by someone else that I shouldn't bother installing it because the engine burns better at stock temperatures. I'm still confused on this subject. Apparently, if you buy a 160 degree thermometer and do not have your car tuned with it in mind, it will actually run hotter. Don't ask me why--I'm an electrical engineer, and it still doesn't make sense. Or maybe that's why it doesn't make sense.

    The Lingenfelter CAI is good, but it uses the OEM accordion-style intake tube. You might want to get a straight tube.

    Honestly, I think that spark plugs either work or they don't--they ignite a tiny portion of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder and that explosion travels outward from there. I have, however, found quite a bit of evidence that ambient humidity and the quality of fuel that you use should be matched to your spark plug gap. Still trying to understand the mechanics, though.

    Other suggestions:

    - Invest in a CG Lock ($50).
    - Drain, flush, and fill your differential (and thoroughly clean the magnetic drain plug) with Royal Purple Max-Gear (you'll need 2 quarts and have a tiny bit left over). In order to break that bolt free for the first time, you'll need a big 10mm Allen wrench and you'll almost definitely need to drop the exhaust out of the way. Follow the FAQ religiously.
    - While you're at it, get yourself a pair of needlenose pliers, a 3/4" drill bit, and pull all 60-odd feet of fiberglass insulation out of the top (not the bottom--there's nothing there) of each muffler. Use the Allen wrench to fish around in there before you close it up with some cold weld adhesive and a pair of stainless steel drain plugs. Result: same sound level and timbre, but lower restriction. Consider using the money you saved to pick up a lightweight 13-20 lb flywheel (OEM = 52 lbs).
    - If you have an iPhone, iPod Touch, or Android device, you might want to invest in something like the OBDKey (expensive) or Kiwi WiFi OBD2 transmitter (not quite as expensive). You'll also need to budget in about $40 for Rev or something similar.
    - Might want to grab the Katech short throw shifter ($250 @ Lingenfelter) along with the UUC bushings that Luke at Lindsay's sells.

  4. #3
    FRiCK is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): CTS-V
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    28

    Re: Free expert advice department (that's all you other CTS-V owners!)

    As far as your list goes....

    Skip the canned tune. Get an actual custom dyno tune, and make sure they've tuned F/I LSX setups before, you can't replace experience. Run a 180-160 thermostat, that blower will have things hotter for sure. The fan on/off need to be adjusted according to whatever thermo you run, or yes, it will run hotter. OEM platinum tipped plugs are ok, just go 1 heat range lower, gapping them around .035" or so. your 40lb injectors might be doing major work. You'll have to find that out on the dyno, I wouldn't go any higher than 90% duty cycle. The LPE intake will be fine, just use the maggy intake tube with the LPE heat shield and filter. A boost gauge is not a necessity, but deffinatley a good idea. If you do get a boost gauge get one the reads both sides of the scale, negative and positive pressures, that way you'll know if you ever get a vacuum leak or know when the car starts to make boost ect.

    Stock exhaust should be fine with those 1 7/8" and resonators, just take out the big ass OEM resonator for a X pipe, and put sone nice 4-4.5" tips on it.

  5. #4
    ichpen's Avatar
    ichpen is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    1,383

    Re: Free expert advice department (that's all you other CTS-V owners!)

    Quote Originally Posted by leosul@verizon.net View Post
    1. I know the air/fuel ratio will need be changed, probably by a lot
    Yes it will.
    2. Timing-advanced, if I'm not mistaken?
    That too and a few other tables

    3. "tune out" the CAGS yeah, I already bought one, but who knew?
    Yes, asked them to take it out.

    4. Should I go with a lower thermo, like 160 degrees?
    Everyone has an opinion on this. Personally if you will be tracking the car a lot you will benefit from lower engine/oil temps with a thermo. For regular use I don't see much point.


    5. Injectors are 40#, just to keep that straight
    That's fine for boost in the 5-8 psi range. Anything over (as you have an OD balancer) you will be into the 90%+ duty cycle which is a bit risky. I know I am.

    6. All wires are bundled and tied up away from headers, headers also wrapped
    Did you check the battery positive cable? Check it check it.


    7. I was told "OK to drive short distance in stock tune, but NO BOOST!
    Correct. Don't hammer it and you'll be fine.


    8. Original platinum plugs in place-should they be replaced?
    They should 1 or 2 step colder plugs. Iridiums are nice long lasting ones.

    9. And anything else anyone may care to suggest would be appreciated.
    Ditch the boost a pump if you have an intank replacement already. You won't need to boost it.


    11. Do I need a boost gauge
    You don't strictly need one but it helps keep track of things visually.

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