2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Finished Motor Mount Swap in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Finally got it done last night. Pretty straight forward job. The videos from Creative Steel made me feel more comfortable ...
Finally got it done last night. Pretty straight forward job. The videos from Creative Steel made me feel more comfortable with doing it myself. Thanks for help with my broken bolt questions.
A little background info for others might be doing this in the future. I have Kooks headers and did the swap in my garage with the car on jack stands. A lot of contorting to get to all the bolts while on my back, but it was possible. When lowering the subframe, I found that I got more clearance if I put a jack under each tire and put some pressure on it. That helped me get the mounts out. I did not take the starter out and had plenty of room on the passenger side. I also did the tranny mount. That was really easy except for I had to go out and by a big torx bit for it. I saw someone asking if it was necessary to lower the exhaust for it. I think you can do it without lowering, but one of my pipes was in the way at getting to one of the bolts. I probably could have got at it, but I already had my exhaust disconnected from removing my headers, so I just lowered it.
That header reinstall was a pita. I can see where those ARP studs would be helpful, but I don't see how it would work on the passenger side and I believe someone who used the studs said that they still had to put them in after the header was in place. I had my wife hold the pipe from the top after I stuck them from underneath, so I could put my jack under them to hold them in place. Getting the gasket and bolts in really blew. Only took me about 10mins to get the dipstick in, so I feel like that was a positive. I put the tube in place without the stick in it, then I got under the car and stuck my finger up best I could and worked the tube onto where it needed to be seated. Then I got out from under the car and pushed down onto the tube and seated it (Heavy, you can send me my badge). I also put new plugs and wires in. Putting those wires on the plugs is the worst. I was so paranoid that I didn't have them on all the way. I couldn't get any leverage on pushing those things. The car will pop a code if a piston isn't firing, right?
I did some work on my Lingenfelter cold air box to get some more clearance for my intake tube so I had that out while doing this. When I fired my car up for the first time with all my fingers crossed I felt the new vibrations coming into the car and was soiling my pants thinking that I didn't get a sparkplug wire on correct and a piston (or a couple) wasn't firing. Then my check engine light came on and I thought I was done for. I got out to take a look at the engine while it was running and there was some smoking coming from the passenger header and I thought I had a leak and told myself I was driving to a shop to have them reinstalled after that horrendous job. But then I smelled that it was just some residue burning off and wasn't exhaust (whew). Then I saw that I didn't plug the MAF back in and prayed that was what my check engine light was on for. I drove the wife's car to autozone to get the code reader and when I got back much to my relief the codes were for the MAF. Cleared them and drove my baby back to return the reader.
First impressions, definitely more vibes, but it doesn't bother me, but could see how might to someone whole liked it as it was before. The vibes while driving are very small, but I am lowered, so my car already had a little added vibration. I can feel the vibes at shutdown and I'm sure I'll get used to it. I can't really say that my shifting is any different from the motor and tranny mount change. Only driving so far was about 3 miles to the autozone so I don't have much experience but I'd say if your mounts are in question to swap them out and enjoy the piece of mind.