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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Cam Install Questions in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Shipped my heads off to OH yesterday to get worked and now I'm prepping for the cam swap and I've ...
  1. #1
    jmpumford's Avatar
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    Cam Install Questions

    Shipped my heads off to OH yesterday to get worked and now I'm prepping for the cam swap and I've got a few questions. Any help would be appreciated, especially if you've done this before.

    1) What did you do with the A/C condenser? From LS1HowTo and posts here it seems people just raise it a foot while removing/installing the cam. Anyone do something else that didn't involve bending those condenser lines or is it alright and I'm just being a girl about it?

    2) I've read to change your oil 100 miles after the swap and that's it. Comp says to change my oil during the swap, then change it again after the 30 minute 2k-2.5k RPM break-in. I was thinking I would just change it after the break-in and then after the tune? Is this necessary or would one change be fine? I assume a tune isn't very good on the oil.

    3) Any tips on stretching the crank bolt where it needs to be while keeping the engine from moving?

    4) Comp says to fire the engine as quickly as possible for lubrication purposes. Does this mean I should wait to put in the new cam until I get my heads back?

    5) Lastly, I'm assuming I want to put the heads back where they came from and not swap sides? (the DIY is for new heads, I'm sure it doesn't matter which side you put which in that instance)

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  3. #2
    ctsv154's Avatar
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    I let the condenser just drop out f the bottom of the car. I had mine on stands so that gave me a little more room for it to slide out the bottom. About changing the oil, its a roller cam so there really wont be much material after break in so while I do recommend changing the oil after a few miles, I dont think its that critical. The heads wont really matter and unless you marked them, it may be hard to tell which one went where. They will most likely make a pass just to make sure they are good and flat so placement shouldn't matter. The actual cam install doesn't take long. I would just wait and slide the old one out and then the new one back in right before you drop the heads on.

  4. #3
    jmpumford's Avatar
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    Ah okay, so you just let the condenser lines bend a little. Guess I will do the same.

    And I marked one of the heads, stamped it with a small torx bit.

    Sounds good, I'll wait to swap the cam until I get the heads back.

    Thanks

  5. #4
    lollygagger8's Avatar
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    Where did you send the heads, and what are you having done to them? Which cam did you go with?

    Please post before/after HP #'s.......I'm debating doing cam/heads or a maggie.

  6. #5
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    Yea that seems funny to me that someone out in LA would be sending heads to OH. I live here and it always seems like there are tons of speed shops in CA. Well at least every time I see something I'd like to do to my car the shop is out West.
    Interested in what your having done too.. Do tell!

  7. #6
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by lollygagger8 View Post
    Where did you send the heads, and what are you having done to them? Which cam did you go with?

    Please post before/after HP #'s.......I'm debating doing cam/heads or a maggie.
    I sent them to Total Engine Airflow in Ohio. I'm getting a header bolt the previous owner (or his mechanic) broke off drilled out and heli-coiled. While they have them, I'm getting a mild port, polish, mill, and valve job. For the cam I just wanted something mild and some decent power down low so I got a custom grind:

    219/223 .606/.610 and an LSA of 113 +3

    I'll post after numbers if you'd like but I won't have the before numbers. Just looking for around 400rwhp and good torque.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fasciaguy View Post
    Yea that seems funny to me that someone out in LA would be sending heads to OH. I live here and it always seems like there are tons of speed shops in CA. Well at least every time I see something I'd like to do to my car the shop is out West.
    Interested in what your having done too.. Do tell!
    Yeah, everyone I speak to raves about TEA. There was actually a place here I was considering but Mike at TEA gave me such a good price on all the other parts (upgraded valve springs, lifters, etc. etc.) I wanted to give him my business even if I had to pay an extra 150 for shipping.

    BTW, for anyone curious about the price I'm doing everything myself besides the machine work and it's going to be a touch over 2,000 for the head work, cam, LS7 lifters, LS2 trays, LS6 oil pump, LS2 timing chain, gaskets, head bolts, crank bolt upgraded springs/pushrods (shipping not included). I can do a final write-up and itemize for anyone that's curious.

  8. #7
    PISNUOFF Guest

    Re: Cam Install Questions

    To answer your original question #3, remove the small plastic cover at the front, drivers side if the bell housing, turn the motor with the crank bolt until a small hole appears in the flywheel, stick a 6" long 1/4" drive socket extension in the hole through the flywheel. It will jam against the block and keep the motor from turning while you remove/install the crank bolt.

  9. #8
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    Thanks a ton!

  10. #9
    CancerJCC is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by PISNUOFF View Post
    To answer your original question #3, remove the small plastic cover at the front, drivers side if the bell housing, turn the motor with the crank bolt until a small hole appears in the flywheel, stick a 6" long 1/4" drive socket extension in the hole through the flywheel. It will jam against the block and keep the motor from turning while you remove/install the crank bolt.
    Quote Originally Posted by jmpumford View Post
    Thanks a ton!
    Not sure what flywheel you have but I tried this and couldn't get anything I had on hand to fit in my Monster flywheel holes. Just a thought to consider, perhaps a metal dowel that is smaller should be purchased beforehand.

  11. #10
    PISNUOFF Guest

    Re: Cam Install Questions

    My stock dual mass turd one and my LS7 one both have holes large enough for a 1/4" drive extension. I can't vouch for any aftermarket ones. I would imagine that they would not have holes in them tho. I guess I assumed he had a stock GM one.

  12. #11
    -T-
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by jmpumford View Post
    Shipped my heads off to OH yesterday to get worked and now I'm prepping for the cam swap and I've got a few questions. Any help would be appreciated, especially if you've done this before.

    1) What did you do with the A/C condenser? From LS1HowTo and posts here it seems people just raise it a foot while removing/installing the cam. Anyone do something else that didn't involve bending those condenser lines or is it alright and I'm just being a girl about it?

    2) I've read to change your oil 100 miles after the swap and that's it. Comp says to change my oil during the swap, then change it again after the 30 minute 2k-2.5k RPM break-in. I was thinking I would just change it after the break-in and then after the tune? Is this necessary or would one change be fine? I assume a tune isn't very good on the oil.

    3) Any tips on stretching the crank bolt where it needs to be while keeping the engine from moving?

    4) Comp says to fire the engine as quickly as possible for lubrication purposes. Does this mean I should wait to put in the new cam until I get my heads back?

    5) Lastly, I'm assuming I want to put the heads back where they came from and not swap sides? (the DIY is for new heads, I'm sure it doesn't matter which side you put which in that instance)
    When I did my cam swap; I changed the oil just before about 100 miles prior to tear down to ensure I had fresh oil during first start up. After the swap, I let it idle for about 25-30 minutes while refilling coolant and tidying up a bit. Then changed the oil again to make sure no contaminants were present when I brought my car to be dyno tuned. After that, every 3k she gets fresh lube.

    On the condenser, shhh..., I just popped the line at the front of the rad and let it evac. So much easier to just pull the rad out during the swap than risk pinching a line or damaging something. Cost me 40$ to have a shop reservice my ac.

    On the crank bolt, I just threw the tranny in 4th and cranked away. I had also went with an slp 25% ud and had fun trying to get that bad boy on.

    I replaced all gaskets and used med. Thread lock on all bolts that torque. Except for crank and heads which come with an application of thread sealer already. Grab a 1" longer crank bolt, will save you about an hours worth of time and piece of mind concerning stripping out the crank threads trying to pull the crank pulley back on.

  13. #12
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    1) You loosen up any clips you can get to and let it down down. Be careful and don't crimp any lines. You will have to bend solid lines and then bend then back so don't move it a lot

    2) I drained my oil during the cam swap because did the oil pump and new chain. So you have the lower the oil pan, I suppose you could leave the oil it in but that would just be a mess.

    3) Yeah a big metal pipe. I wasn't too scientific with it, TQ'd to 200 ft lbs and did an extra 1/4 turn with a breaker bar and the lenght of metal pipe from home depot.

    4) Don't know that one.

    5) Don't know that one either.

  14. #13
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    I pulled the harmonic balancer (after fighting with it for about 3 hours last night) and swapped the cams this morning.

    I got a bolt back from TEA when they worked my heads, so I guessing I forgot to pull it or maybe I accidently dropped it in the box? Does anyone recognize this bolt? Where does it go? There is only one. The bolt is about an inch long, with the head being close to 3/4 of an inch wide.



    Here is the cam coming out, I think I haven't broke anything yet!


  15. #14
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    I think that bolt is the plug for the coolant access on the passenger's side head (will be at the rear or firewall end). It is counterpart of the water temperature sensor that is on the front of the driver's side head just under the MAF area.

    Also remember that there is a steam plug on each end of both heads. The front two are connected by the steam tube that runs between the front of the passenger side head and the front of the drivers side head. The back two - next to the firewall each have a plug. These may, or may not have been removed by TEA.

  16. #15
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    Re: Cam Install Questions

    Awesome. And I got the steam plug connectors back from TEA as well. I noticed that one of the tiny, round, black seals is missing from one of them, can I use RTV silicone gasket maker?

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