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Spec stage 3+ and ls7 slave owners enter

2K views 24 replies 4 participants last post by  liqidvenom 
#1 ·
Hey guys, Im trying to guage what the pedal feel and travel should be. It gets into get fine just trying to find out if my pedal travel and feel is correct or if i need to bleed it further.


also is there any adjustment ability to the clutch pedal itself?
 
#2 ·
Seems quiet in here....


well the car was just bleed properly. I asked a local shop here to look at it that normally does gm v8's and they mentioned that a spacer would add more pedal travel or have it catch higher in the pedal travel. I was under the impression that if you ran a stage3+ and a ls7 slave you didnt need the spacer.... those that have such a setup is your clutch catching closer to the floor or higher up like with the stock clutch.


I just dont want to pull the trans off if people didnt run the spacer spec included with their kit.
 
#3 ·
I ran an LS7 flywheel and an LS7 spec stage 3 with an LS7 slave and it felt the same as stock. I just couldn't shift at high rpm. The spec pressure plate would lock me out.
 
#8 ·
to report: I had it properly bleed at a race shop and now i have proper pedal feel back.

Max- no i have the cts-v stage 3+ clutch and the lightened flywheel they sell, using a ls7 slave. not sure how it would fit. I'm the 2nd person i know of to use this setup. The other guy is on the v section of ls1tech.

when i get it broken in i'll try some wot shifts and report back.
 
#6 ·
I thought the problem was getting into 4th on the Spec kits? I remember a guy posting a video on here of him not being able to get into 4th multiple times.
 
#7 ·
Sometimes it's 4th. Sometimes it's 5th. Just depends pm if your holding your tongue just right lol
 
#12 ·
yes, wierd part about my setup is the pedal feels great, and the clutch grip in the middle...
But getting into gears at high rpms is tough

g/luck with your setup.

But something doesnt make sence
The spec spacer is about a 1/2" thick

for comparison If you run a LS7 clutch kit, you need either a LS7 slave,or the katach spacer which is almost a 1" thick.

....So if you run the LS7 slave with the spec kit, its like running the spec kit with a katech spacer which is almost 1/2" thicker then what spec sends out with thier kit...

Can someone clarify this with me ? am I missing something ?? :hmm:
 
#15 ·
Good luck. I just picks up a second exedy twin for even less than the first. Looks better too. Kicker is I paid 90 for one and 80 for the second. I hope to build one good one out of the two and rebuild the second. Both are GT04SD so I should be able to use either the LS7 slave or the spacer I have with the stock and be golden. I'll be in a twin disk for free by the time it's all said and done. Hope to sell the second one for a nice profit!
 
#18 ·
With the LS7 clutch setup, you need a stock slave with a .950" spacer or an LS7 slave.
 
#20 ·
I would bet the same.
 
#25 ·
needactsv said:
I used the Stage 3+ - SC683F $598.00 (this will not fit the stock flywheel) and their aluminum flywheel SC75A $399.00. They have a cheaper steal flywheel, but you only save $140. You will need the LS7 slave cyinder or a spacer with a stock CTS-V cylinder. I would recommend replacing the slave while you are in there. The LS7 slave is like $200, and the CTS-V slave is around $450plus you will have to buy a $50 spacer. Go with the LS7 slave! You want to buy a remote bleeder line as well. They are about $50. The LS7 slave is the exact height as the CTS-V slave with the spacer attatched. The only mod is you "may" have to cut about 1/4 inch of the bell housing at the opening the line comes through. Very minor modification. Get some DOT 4 brake fluid, or 5.1. 5.1 is hard to find, but it is the best. Do not use DOT 5. According to SPEC, this setup will hold updto 967 lbs of torque. The clutch feels awesome after all of the air is bled out of the lines. If you have never driven a brand new hydraulic clutch before, then you are in for a surprise. It is next to impossible to get all of the air out of the line by manually bleeding. You just want to get it to the point that when the clutch is pressed in, the clutch disengages from the flywheel. The pedal is going to feel like shit for about 3-5 days. The easiest way to check if it is disengaging, is to lift the car. Put it in 1st gear. Push the clutch in, and see if the rear tires turn. If they turn, then the clutch is not completely disengaging, which is bad. Keep bleeding! It takes forever. Have fun.
thats everything i got just from his pm and about 3-4 other people have the same setup with the ls7 slave on the cts-v section on ls1tech
 
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