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3K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  liqidvenom 
#1 ·
Anyone know of inherent problems when installing 6.2 litre into a 2004 V? I've blown another motor and am moving up in the world.
 
#2 ·
As long as you use an LS1 style crank, you wont have to deal with the reluctor. Other things include relocation of the knock sensors and the cam sensor.
 
#4 ·
You can keep the ls3 as it is, but you will need to order a few additioal parts...

58-24x trigger
4-2 trigger
Map an knock sensor relocation

thats all, you can still use your original engine, and tune accordingly. LPE has a two in one triger box that will convert the crank and cam triggers accurately for you...

Have fun and dont forget to upgrade just about everything around the engine...Clutch, cooling system, sways, bushings etc....
 
#10 ·
You going built motor or just a factory 6.2?
 
#13 ·
Then I would go LS1 style crank unless you get a chub from running the 58x reluctor.
 
#15 ·
Don't have a clue why.I'm a driver-not a mech.Both chain breaks-40 track hours apart-have been during high g-load cornering so suspect oil starv. Cooling is not a problem with xtra oil cooler and Ron Davis big radiator.On hot days oil temp. does not exceed 240 Fah.Oil press around 70.Also have high-flow in-line oil filter.Engine builder tells me all engine parts loose and sloppy with stock pistons and agressive cam may be responsible-it was due.Wish I knew as it is getting rather exp.Builder is telling me any track motor needs rebuild every 40-60 hours.Don't know if he's putting kids thru school.He has great rep and builds fine track vettes.Hep me
 
#17 ·
To be frank, they are about right...

The harder you push the more wear that is going to happen regardless. F1 cars go through a complete tear down and rebuild after every race. Nascar is similar, and NHRA they have 5 min motors...

Thats why i didnt go with L92 heads with Ti valves, 2.20 intake and 1.60 exhaust (the exhaust side was near impossible to find)...LPE would have requested to have inspected my enginne after every race. And due to my location, they HIGHLY recommended i go with the LS9 heads. Its a proven combination where the all the moving parts in the heads will be fine and i wont have to inspect too frequently...

I will periodiaclly call in a specialized tech to insure everything is runnin within its parameters...Short term loss with long term gains...
 
#20 ·
You are punishing everything a lot more. You have to inspect every aspect of the car. Track time is well above the normal operatin parameters. There are a lot more stresses on the car as a whole, you are pushin the engine harder, the brakes harder, not lettin them cool as much, the suspension is being worked constantly....

To run a successful race season you will have a huge preventative maintenance cost, thats why we get sponsorship...To help ease the pain of these hidden costs...
 
#21 ·
I was on road bikes for 12 years-they're relatively cheap.now i've moved to cars and the cost is shutting me down.But the V car-after brakes,rear and suspension are upgraded-is a great sleeper track machine.Nobody expects it to be as fast as it is.Please send sponsorship money and decals.$1200-1500 per day would be great.Anybody know Mr. Penske?
 
#24 ·
ANZE is good stuff.Help if you can.I have 1 wkend on new Penskes with standard Eibach springs(guessing Eibachs around 450s).Everthing was way soft.Now getting Penskes revalved stiffer and getting more spring.My builder is saying because of Caddy geometry(04) maybe 4 corners need same poundage.Forum guys say heavier in rear by 50 lbs or so.Builder says oppo. if anything.Car ways 3720 w/o me.Also-builder thinks maybe pigtail style for rear springs.I need help with spring weights.Car puts down 450 rwp on R6 275/35 18s on all 4 with GM rear-end. Still waiting for cash and decals.May have to go momentum if $$$ don't change.Hep me!
 
#25 ·
I am currently runnin the Anze fully adjustable shocks with H&R springs, about 500 front and rear. I raised the car by about 0.500" up front and 0.625" in the rear for better geometery. I will be increasing the Camber from 1.5 to 2.5 up front and1.5 to 2.0 in the rear. Toe in is stock, though this is debatable. The faster the circuit the more toe in, the more curvy the circuit the more toe out you need. I dont have an alignment machine on site all the time, so i leave this stock, its a happy medium....

I am looking for slightly stronger springs for the rear, 550 to 600. This should help eliminate the rear sway which also leads to the sloppy cornering.

If you are looking for areodynamic upgrades talk with jeff at Specterwerks, he will get you on the right path. I got the front splitter and rear trunk for new spoiler from him...

You dont have to go drastic like me with Carbon, but shaving weight is always a plus...
 
#26 ·
So you are adding positive camber?I am wearing insides of tires slightly more so I need to try that also.I have Spectre rear spoiler with about 3" of additional height added with carbon strip.Considering our height off of ground,how advantageous do you think fr splitter is on high speed track.Are camber adjustments possible at track on our cars in stock form.Are you using pre-load collars to adjust ride height?How much do you weigh?Thanks for help with springs.I'm gonna try 550 fr/600 rr
 
#29 ·
I for got to put the negative infront of my camber numbers...You want negative camber, not positive. Right now i just have the APR SCCA rear spoiler on my car and it kept my rear down good...

The front splitter is an option i am lookin forward to using...i havent tried it just yet...The guys over at Specter Werks insisted i get this mod on my car to proper balance the car around the track. They are the experts, so i am not gonna argue...

I am able to play with spring height, shock stiffness and rebound stiffness. Camber at the moment is not possible, YET. Am lookin to redesign the front spindle so i may have some adjustability. I just need to ask my alignment guy what it the length to Camber degree on the CTS. if it is 1/8" to one degree i will make spacers for the front. The front is slightly more important then the rear when it comes to camber, IMO. Especially if you are on a flat circiut. Most proper racing tire love negative caster and negative camber. When the car rolls it tips the tires outwards thus increasin the contact area instead of lessen it.

I set the height once, and it was as low as it would go without the tires rubbin while turnin hard. It happened to me once and a Honda 2000 passed me, i learnt how to avoid it during that track session and passed everyone, including a porsche before my 20mins were up...I only actually have full adjustment in the front, the rear is via nylon spacers placed above the spring. I was going to do coilovers in the rear but i may run into clearance issues later with larger tires

I would love to have a suspension where you can mess with the camber in the pit lanes like those japanese cars. They have a system where in the pit lane you could make critial adjustments to the suspension without an alignment machine...
 
#30 ·
I would love to have a suspension where you can mess with the camber in the pit lanes like those japanese cars. They have a system where in the pit lane you could make critial adjustments to the suspension without an alignment machine...
Thats something that would be nice on V3. If we keep askin for this stuff it will come. V2 is testament to that.
 
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