2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Axle Install How to in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; This was the install of the DSS/Hendrix axles, but can be used as a reference for other after market axle ...
This was the install of the DSS/Hendrix axles, but can be used as a reference for other after market axle installs.
This Install isn't that bad. I did it in 2.5 hours (taking pics in between) The worst part about it is gathering up the balls to dump the clutch after you install them!!!
Tools you'll need:
21MM Socket (almost all bolts/nuts on knuckle are this size)
21MM Gear Wrench (essential that it's a GEAR WRENCH...you'll see)
34mm Deep Socket (Spindle Nut on Hub)
18mm socket (Caliper Bolts)
10mm alllen wrench (Diff Drain & Fill Plugs)
8mm allen wrench (DSS/Hendrix Axle Bolts)
Long 1/2" Breaker Bar
Masking Tape/Marker (for marking all the bolts you are going to be removing)
Long Pry Bar
Beer of Choice
Diff Fluid of Choice
Blue Loctite (for all bolt threads)
Most of these pics are of the Drivers Side.
First, this is a perfect opportunity to change your diff fluid. Drain all the diff fluid out. Both the fill and drain plug are 10mm allen head bolts. Always remove the fill bolt first (just in case you can't remove it) or you'll be stuck with a diff that you can't fill!
Here's a pic of my nasty sludge that collected on my diff plug magnet. And I change my fluid often!
Ok let the diff drain, and let's begin the install.
Once you have your wheel off, Remove the Spindle Nut. This spindle nut is 34mm. You don't have to remove the Torx Bolt (T40) if you don't want to.
Look at the picture below. You need to place a drift punch or equivelant(I used the allen wrench) in between the slots in the rotor and the caliper. This will keep the rotor/axle from turning while you are cranking down on the spindle nut. *Move the punch/allen wrench to the under sire of the caliper when you are TIGHTENING the spindle nut.*
Once you've removed the Spindle Nut, time for the caliper. The top bolt is longer than the Bottom Caliper Bolt so label them with the tape and marker (If you can't remember)
Now it's time to remove the Ball Joint from the Hub Assy. It's a little hard to get at, but you won't need an extension. (pic shows with rotor removed)
If it doesn't come out on it's own, coax it with a rubber mallet. It should seperate after a couple decent taps.
Time to remove the Trailing Arm and Tie Rod.
Remove the lower Shock Bolt from the Hub Assy. You might want to put a jack under the lower control arm so the bolt is easier to get out.
Remove the lower bolt holding the Hub Assy to the Lower Control Arm.
Now that everything is free, grab the Rotor and pull the Hub assy from the axle splines to seperate the two. If it doesn't want to come off, coax the axle end with the rubber mallet (or plastic side of the mallet) and it should come out.
Here's a pic with all the Bolts out and the Hub Assy removed from the Axle.
Now it's time to put your breaker bar in between the diff and the axle CV joint itself and seperate the two from each other. It doesn't take brute force by any means, all you are doing is getting the snap ring to let go. It will "pop" once you have gotten the two to seperate. (the fluid residue you see is from the vent)
Now before installing the DSS/Hendrix Axles, READ THE STICKER ON THE AXLES!!! Tighten the bolts (8mm allen head) to 57 ft. lbs. If you have a vice, this is alot easier than tightening them after they are in the car.
No vice? Wait til they are in the car and manually turn the axles with your hand until the bolt you want to tighten is easy to get to. Once you are ready to tighten, have someone push on the brakes while you are tightening, and then move to the next bolt..etc, etc.
Ok when putting the new axles in, I lightly up the splines on the DSS/Hendrix Axles.
This may not be necessary, but it's good insurance, and helps get the seated in the diff splines easier. Once you orientate the splines push the new axles in until you hear that pop, or the CV bottoms out against the diff. (you'll know) BE CAREFUL not to disturb the axle seals! The stealerships use a plastic sleeve to cover them, but if you are careful, you'll be fine.
Once in, the hard part is holding the hub trying to get the axles lined up. I put a little grease on the hub splines to help ease their way in.
Once you get the axles inside the hub, reverse the install procedure. Reread the install ^above^ if you are confused here.
Heres a pic of the passenger side with everything removed for reference.
Refill your diff with your fluid of choice. (I use Redline 75w90 usually but this time I bumped it up to half 75w90 and half 75w140, and it quited the whine a little bit!) If you are using a fluid that does NOT have LSD modifier in it, put the friction modifier in FIRST so you have enough room for it all.
Make sure you've tightened all your bolts back up (recheck the axle allen head bolts!!!!!) and get ready for no wheelhop bliss!!
Heres another pic comparing the stock axles with the DSS/Hendrix Axles......those CV's are BEEFY!