If my ECM is used to (been tuned for) being fooled by the OEM sensor (in terms of air temperature), I wonder if it would need to be retuned to "deal with the truth."
Why would you have your fans set to kick in at 205 on a 180 degree thermostat after being tuned? Fan 1 should kick in at ~190 and shut off at ~185 and fan 2 should kick in at ~200 and shut off at ~195. You are letting things get too hot for no reason.
One of these could be made for much less than that. For the maggie you have to relocate the IAT sensor so you can use the maggie install instructions to find the two wires. Buy the thermistor that was mentioned a while back for the maggie guys. I think it was less then $15. Then just buy a gm IAT connector and housing and there you go. Granted you have to do a little more work but thats what saving the green is all about!
I've been contemplating this as well. Car is still on jack stands. Should have the new slave here on Wednesday. I went ahead and pulled my three piece Asantis apart and I'm going to have the centers powder coated gloss black. I plan on selling this thing and I'm still modding! lol I think I may even get it tuned before it goes by by.
Stock thermostat in the V is 186°F. I can't imagine the thermostat opening 6° cooler would make much of a difference. I am going to go with a 160° eventually, but I dont track it THAT much and I have plenty of time between runs at auto-x for a cool down.
There are so many reasons not to run an engine too cool, that it is well worth the slight expense of power. Oil not reaching operating temp, engine clearances designed to run within specific temp ranges, fuel not vaporizing as quickly and/or as the engineers had intended, fuel contamination of the oil, higher emissions. It wasn't just for emissions that the engineers designed engines to run at hotter temps. They also found that the fuel vaporized better at the higher temps, thus providing better fuel economy and reduced oil contamination.
Do I want my car to idle at 220 degress while at a stoplight? Heck no. Do I want it at 175 degrees while I'm driving down the street or highway? Heck no.
edit, just read through that carnut article. Interesting read, I am going to save the link.
On the heat soak issue, from the manufacturer's link, it appears they claim the GM OEM IAT sensor is slow to respond to air temp changes, which leads to poor timing issues, and what they're doing is replacing the GM IAT with a "proprietary" sensor, correct? I don't think the change of the IAT sensor would have a negative impact on ECUs calibration, because it isn't changing anything, just making the results report more quickly.
I run a BIG B Cool radiator on the Impala. I agree, Darkman, always gotta take into account the Ying and Yang of thermaldynamics. It's all in the design of the SYSTEM and WHERE it will be used.
with my W4me tune and 160* tstat ... my V lives at in the 180-190 area when it gets up to temp.. no matter the outside temp. With the old T-stat and stock tune i was always up in the 200's..
with my W4me tune and 160* tstat ... my V lives at in the 180-190 area when it gets up to temp.. no matter the outside temp. With the old T-stat and stock tune i was always up in the 200's..
That means that your tune runs the fans more often which keeps the temperatures lower. Your 160 degree thermostat is not responsible for the drop in temps from 200+ down to the 180-190 area.
No tech to back up this opinion, but letting the 160 stat run wide open all the time may not allow the water/coolant mixture to properly absorb the heat, either.
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