Monster Clutch Install
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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Monster Clutch Install in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; I'm going to do this off of memory, so if I miss something, I'm sorry....I'm sure I'll add something later ...
  1. #1
    lollygagger8's Avatar
    lollygagger8 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Monster Clutch Install

    I'm going to do this off of memory, so if I miss something, I'm sorry....I'm sure I'll add something later so read the entire thread. I take no responsibilty if you hurt yourself or you mess something up. If you do, you're an idiot and you should've paid someone to do it for you. j/k

    Tools You'll Need:

    Wrenches/ Sockets:
    10mm
    13mm
    15mm
    18mm
    T-47 Torx

    Misc:
    Breaker Bar
    Multiple Long (Super Long) Extensions
    Torque Wrench
    LAPD Remote Bleeder (or whatever brand you pick.....just get one!! You'll thank yourself when it comes time to bleed your clutch) If you get the LAPD remote, make sure you ask them for the small adapter fitting for the slave.
    Not necessary, but if you want ARP bolts like I had, order the following:
    330-2802: Flywheel Bolts
    134-2201: Pressure Plate Bolts
    Red Loctite for all bolts

    My buddy Dan and I did this job on his garage floor. Thanks Dan for all the help and your garage!!

    You have to get the jackstands really high so that you can have room to pull the trans out. We had enough room to pull the trans, and barely enough for the trans to clear the frame rails. So, make sure you account for this.

    Remove the shifter.

    Remove You Exhaust. I have B&B, so you need 11/16" and 5/8" wrenches for those bolts.

    Remove the driveshaft. The bolts holding the driveshaft/carrier bearing are 15mm. The heat shield bolts are 10mm.


    The bolts on the diff side are 8mm allen wrench, and the bolts on the trans side are 18mm. Make sure you mark where your driveshaft is before you remove it! (unless you were getting vibes already and you need to reindex it


    Unplug all the sensors (mark em with tape if you don't remember)
    Sensors:
    Transmission Fluid Sensor
    Backup Lamp Switch
    Vehicle Speed Sensor
    Reverse Lockout Sensor
    Gear select/Skip Shift Solenoid (or CAGS)
    Oxygen Sensors (all 4)

    MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE CLUTCH FLUID RESERVOIR LINE ALSO.
    You have to pull the retaining locking pin on the connector to release the connection.

    Put a jack under the transmission so you can support the weight off of the cross member (aka transmission support) This is where you can either leave the fluid in the trans, or drain it (less weight)....I chose to leave the fluid in since I just changed it about 1k miles ago.

    Remove all the bolts from the transmission support. (15mm, and T-47 Torx bit) and remove it.

    Now the transmission is supported by the jack and is held in by the (8) bolts you need to remove, so you can pull the trans away from the bell housing.
    Now it's time for the super long extensions. Lower the jack a little bit so the trans can lower to access the upper bolts. There's a good pic later on of the bell housing attached with the Monster Clutch so you can see where the bolt (bolt holes) are.

    Once you have the bolts removed, you have to manipulate the trans input shaft out of the old clutch disc. This is semi tricky. A pry bar can get you started, but be careful and use common sense.....it's all aluminum down there. Lifting and lowering the jack and wiggling it back and forth will get Elvis to leave the building.....it feels like 100 lbs (around there) not too bad to pick up and move around.


    Now you are looking at this...


    Time to remove the bell housing.
    There are (you guessed it, 8 more bolts) holding that on to the block. The lower ones are no prob, but the upper studs bolts are hard to get to. They are hidden by the black plastic connectors that hold the myriad of wire looms, so keep looking.....you'll find em.

    Here's one on upper left.....


    On the right.....


    On top.... (I actually got to this one from the top...thru the engine bay. Used a Gear Wrench and it worked out great.


    Once all the bolts are out, it's a major pain in the ass to get the bell housing out, because our dual mass flywheels are so thick. Just try to keep the wire looms out of the way and pull and turn it to get it out of there. Once out...here's what you are looking at.

    Remove the six bolts. Be careful.....pressure plate is heavy.

    Once removed, you get the pleasure of seeing the boat anchor dual mass flywheel. Remove the six bolts and be VERY careful. This turd weighs 45 lbs!!


    Here's a pic of the back of the block just because.


    Ok......gotta do another post.....it won't let me put more than 15 pics at a time on here....booooo

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  3. #2
    lollygagger8's Avatar
    lollygagger8 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    Wow.......what a turd.


    Wow.....what a nice piece of American Badassness


    Ok now it's time to install the remote bleeder into the slave.

    ^See how the remote bleeder doesn't sit flush with the face of the trans??^

    I had to notch the bell housing just a little bit so it wouldn't pinch it closed when reinstalling everything. Measure very carefully and you can use a chizel and notch it out easily.


    Time to install the Flywheel. Grab your Monster Directions, as they have a little bit different torque specs than factory. The Monster kit comes with bolts, but I already had ARP bolts, so I just used those.
    Torque them to spec. (factory bolts go to 58 ft lbs and are torqued in the star of david pattern in even sections)
    Make sure you brake clean the shit out of it and get all debris, fingerprints, gunk off of it.


    Line up the clutch disc with the provided alignment tool, and make sure it's cleaned off.


    Time to install the pressure plate. Make sure the clutch disc is perfectly aligned before you torque the pressure plate down! It has alot of play just sitting there, and it can easily get moved or bumped. Get your head up in there and look at it if you have to. This will save you more trouble when putting the input shaft into the pivot bearing later.

    The Monster directions have their torque value and pattern in which to evenly distribute the torque to each of the six bolts.


    Time to put the bell housing back in. It goes in WAAAAAY easier than it came out due to the new normal size flywheel and not fighting the dual mass turd anymore. Here's what you'll see after you get the bolts back in. Good reference pic to see where the trans bolts are.....


    Here's a pic of the top stud bolt that goes into the bell housing. (looking down on the back of the engine from the engine bay)


    Now here's the hardest part of the whole install.......getting the trans input shaft to line up with the clutch disc, and the pivot bearing. Just have patience. You'll have to work the jack up and down (a little) and back and forth, and wiggle it back forth to get it to go in. If you did a good job keeping the clutch disc aligned while tightening the pressure plate down, it'll be easier on you. Make sure you aren't crushing any connections when reinstalling the trans. Watch the vent, remote line, slave line, and all the wire looms. Use common sense, and take your time. This part can use your concentration.

    Once you get it in, put the shifter back in, driveshaft, exhaust back in. Connect all the electrical connections, and O2's. Bleed the clutch.....if you were smart you are doing it with your remote line. It took literally 6 minutes to totally bleed my system after the install.

    Results:

    I got a Stage 3. and 18 lb flywheel.

    If you want a grabby clutch that'll take anything you throw at it, get a Stage 3 for sure. It chatters less and less the more miles you put on it. You can get it to not chatter at all if you slip it a little. There's a little more noise from 1st thru 3rd, but it gets less and less the more miles I rack up. I'm on 125 now...375 to go before I can beat on it. So I'm guessing it's only going to get quieter/better.
    The lightened flywheel makes a HUGE difference. It revs faster, decels MUCH faster, and when I shut the car off.....it shuts right down. It's crazy how much inertia the old dual mass fw had and took a second or two to finally stop rotating. Not anymore with the Monster setup.

    Overall.....I'd get this setup again no prob. Talk to Steve @ Monster and tell him how you drive, and he can give you the exact setup that's right for you. Which stage, and which flywheel to get. Monster is great to work with, and they KNOW THEIR SHIT! Thanks for all your help Guys!!

    If I forgot anything, I apologize....this is the longest writeup in history and my eyes are crossing and I'm bound to forget something here or there.

  4. #3
    SkullV's Avatar
    SkullV is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    Great writeup as always man! Hope to order a new clutch this week!

  5. #4
    BerserkerV is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    Thank you for this. It will come in quite handy when I can afford a new clutch

  6. #5
    manciniat is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    another great write up, thank you. this will be the route i go in the future.

  7. #6
    maxspeed96ct is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    Awsome write up.

    I realy wish I bought a Monster kit.

    I just got a kit from another forum sponsor and Im VERY unhappy..

    I cant post the bad news yet cause it could be a mistake, but I dout it cause I read about another member having a issue with the flywheel and P.P not lining up....

  8. #7
    whisler151's Avatar
    whisler151 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    Welcome to the darkside. You will love Monster! Drop the clutch and feeling all the power going to the wheels...no slipping of the clutch. I didn't notice I was slipping till I got the Monster clutch and felt what a real clutch was like.

  9. #8
    liqidvenom is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    I guess this has me sold on which clutch to get. Great write up.

  10. #9
    liqidvenom is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    i noticed you have pics of everything that comes in there kit but the slave. any pics/info on that?

  11. #10
    jballer88 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    I've got the stage 3 also and so far I love it. The pedal feel is definitely alot more firm than stock, and you have to sort of get used to driving around with that light flywheel after driving the huge stock one. I have to say, its a little tougher for me to drive in traffic with the stg 3 and light flywheel, but I'm sure I can adjust to it after some more practice. The clutch and lighter flywheel just make the car feel alot more like a performance car, and alot less like a 4000lb cadillac. Definitely worth the money imo, and from everyone I've talked to seems much easier to install than the other kits out there.

  12. #11
    nmaier2201's Avatar
    nmaier2201 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    nice Lolly. Glad you got it all worked out in the end.

    nice write up as always.

  13. #12
    CIWS's Avatar
    CIWS is offline Cadillac Owners 10000+ Posts
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    Nice write up and pictures to boot

  14. #13
    GFORCE1320 is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    Those are some nice looking parts! I love the "Made in USA" on the flywheel.

    Thanks
    Chris
    GFORCE Engineering
    The leader in IRS Drivetrain technology
    gforce1320@gmail.com
    316-260-8433
    www.gforce1320.com
    Dealer inquires welcome, check our web page for a dealer near you.


  15. #14
    lollygagger8's Avatar
    lollygagger8 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    Quote Originally Posted by liqidvenom View Post
    i noticed you have pics of everything that comes in there kit but the slave. any pics/info on that?
    Nope. Sorry Boss. There's a guy on here trying to copy all the clutch shit that other people have already figured out, and resell it. I'm not going to help him out cuz he's a total dick and has no clue what he's doing.

    Quote Originally Posted by jballer88 View Post
    I've got the stage 3 also and so far I love it. The pedal feel is definitely alot more firm than stock, and you have to sort of get used to driving around with that light flywheel after driving the huge stock one. I have to say, its a little tougher for me to drive in traffic with the stg 3 and light flywheel, but I'm sure I can adjust to it after some more practice. The clutch and lighter flywheel just make the car feel alot more like a performance car, and alot less like a 4000lb cadillac. Definitely worth the money imo, and from everyone I've talked to seems much easier to install than the other kits out there.
    I think my pedal is exactly the same pressure. Very easy to press in. Maybe yours need bled a little? I agree about getting used to it.....the only thing I find different is I may have to give it a touch more gas since the flywheel is a lot less weight....which is a GOOD thing

    Quote Originally Posted by GFORCE1320 View Post
    Those are some nice looking parts! I love the "Made in USA" on the flywheel.

    Thanks
    Chris
    Me too!!! USA made parts FTW!!!!

  16. #15
    lollygagger8's Avatar
    lollygagger8 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Monster Clutch Install

    I took video of revs before and after the clutch install, but the 2nd video sucks cuz it's dark....sorry I thought it'd come out better than that. I'll try and take a better one today or tomorrow. Notice how quick the rpms go up on the new fw, and how long decels take on the old one compared to the Monster FW!


    Old Dual mass fw rev



    New 18 lb flywheel rev

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