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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, I give up. in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Originally Posted by AAIIIC Is there something special you need for the bump stops? They're not too hard to find ...
  1. #46
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by AAIIIC View Post
    Is there something special you need for the bump stops? They're not too hard to find and not that expensive, either.

    How much bump travel do you have, and is not having the bumpstops a serious limitation? With the spring rates you're running I wouldn't think that bottoming out the strut was really going to be a problem.
    Nah, I drove it around today. About 200 miles in total and some really hard bumps and dips. No bottoming out. But now I've got something different.

    I had the QA1s on 5 clicks and I got a bit of a floaty ride. Enough that would keep me off the track. So this morning I bump it up to 9 clicks. The float goes away. But now I have this oscillation going on. The V's rear end just can't sit still. I'll try it at 7 clicks tomorrow. But I may just have to run 5 on the street. 9 clicks would be fine for the track as I don't get oscillation when running the V hard.

    I wonder if you can get the springs and shocks so stiff that the pillow mount starts to deform too much...


    -- We miss you, JD (Dirt_Cheap_Fleetwood)


  2. #47
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    Re: I give up.

    I know in Subaru world that's a problem that some people have when using the stock strut top mounts with higher spring rates. I initially upgraded to harder rubber mounts (Subaru's Group N rally spec), then to solid mounts.

    Interesting that just a few clicks would make that much of a difference. When you say "oscillation" are you talking vertical or like a front-rear thing? I had some coil-overs on my Subaru that had a vertical bounce-bounce all the time, drove me nuts. (These were very good coil-overs from DMS, who makes top end stuff, not cheap ebay stuff.) One of the things I was told to help diagnose what type of oscillation it was was to rest my head back against the headrest as I drove - if it was a purely up-down oscillation (as mine was) my head would stay there, if it was a front-rear oscillation my head would be bounced off the headrest. As I recall, if it's a front-rear oscillation that's an indication that the wheel rates aren't matched properly. No, I don't really know what that means.
    '05 Stealth Grey CTS-V, Hyper Silver Linea Corse Venetos w/Continental ExtremeContact DWs (summer), black Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2 wheels with 275/35-18 R-compounds (track), Hyperblack Rota Torques (winter), KW Variant3s, V2 front brakes, Hotchkis rear sway bar, EPS cam, TEA-ported 243 heads, FAST92 intake w/LS2 TB, JBA Camaro/G8 1-3/4" shorty headers w/JBA cat pipes, Corsa exhaust, UUC motor and tranny mounts, UUC shifter, MAPerformance trailing arms, Specter cradle bushings, etc...

  3. #48
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by thebigjimsho View Post
    ...I wonder if you can get the springs and shocks so stiff that the pillow mount starts to deform too much...
    I have lost track, what springs are you using as of now?

  4. #49
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by thebigjimsho View Post
    Your maggie sitting there is because you're a lazy ass. Tony has no V because he's a responsible husband who doesn't want his family on a street corner pandering for money...

    Well, maybe he's not that badly off...he is a successful salesman for a Cadillac dealer that is NOT on the list of closures...
    Well it appears my comment was taken out of context and looking back on it it does look bad. I was just joking around.

    Now for the Maggie, I could have gotten it in sooner but I have been dealing with work, 2 cats dying on me, dealing with the wife over the cats death's, getting her car to pass smog, the house, and there have been some problems with the super charger that I have been sorting out. The list goes on but I won't take up anymore time in your thread.

    Again, I am really sorry for the comment Tony.

  5. #50
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by CTSV_Rob View Post
    Well it appears my comment was taken out of context and looking back on it it does look bad. I was just joking around.

    Now for the Maggie, I could have gotten it in sooner but I have been dealing with work, 2 cats dying on me, dealing with the wife over the cats death's, getting her car to pass smog, the house, and there have been some problems with the super charger that I have been sorting out. The list goes on but I won't take up anymore time in your thread.

    Again, I am really sorry for the comment Tony.
    D00D! Lighten up. Both Tony and I would know you're comments are meaningless. But, seriously, you overreact too much...


    -- We miss you, JD (Dirt_Cheap_Fleetwood)


  6. #51
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    I have lost track, what springs are you using as of now?
    I have the 700lb springs on the back again. But the rebuilt QA1s certainly have stiffer compression and rebound. So these at 9 clicks are much stronger than any setting before the rebuild.


    -- We miss you, JD (Dirt_Cheap_Fleetwood)


  7. #52
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by AAIIIC View Post
    I know in Subaru world that's a problem that some people have when using the stock strut top mounts with higher spring rates. I initially upgraded to harder rubber mounts (Subaru's Group N rally spec), then to solid mounts.

    Interesting that just a few clicks would make that much of a difference. When you say "oscillation" are you talking vertical or like a front-rear thing? I had some coil-overs on my Subaru that had a vertical bounce-bounce all the time, drove me nuts. (These were very good coil-overs from DMS, who makes top end stuff, not cheap ebay stuff.) One of the things I was told to help diagnose what type of oscillation it was was to rest my head back against the headrest as I drove - if it was a purely up-down oscillation (as mine was) my head would stay there, if it was a front-rear oscillation my head would be bounced off the headrest. As I recall, if it's a front-rear oscillation that's an indication that the wheel rates aren't matched properly. No, I don't really know what that means.
    Definitely rear vertical oscillation. Like when you're frantically shaking a kid to wake them up...

    I think if I reused the dustshields in the stock shocks, that large area disperses the energy evenly, limiting the oscillation...


    -- We miss you, JD (Dirt_Cheap_Fleetwood)


  8. #53
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by CTSV_Rob View Post


    Oh yeah, the KARS III I bought from doug didn't fit so I had to cut it apart and it will be going on this week and I will ltake it down and get it welded again. Found an awesome shop for this kind of work and I am going to be talking with them about retrofitting the V with a C3 diff.

    Oh man yours didn't fit either? I think Heavy was right when he called that the jig they used to make them got kicked

    Got any tips on where you cut it? I'm afraid cutting mine all up and rewelding it is just going to shrink that tubing all over again

    Also keep me posted on the C3... I may follow down the same path if I get some pics on how you did it

  9. #54
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    Re: I give up.

    oops sorry for the thread jack... I forgot where I was when I read Rob's post.

  10. #55
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by nmaier2201 View Post
    oops sorry for the thread jack... I forgot where I was when I read Rob's post.
    Don't worry, we all know Rob's a tool...


    -- We miss you, JD (Dirt_Cheap_Fleetwood)


  11. #56
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by nmaier2201 View Post
    Oh man yours didn't fit either? I think Heavy was right when he called that the jig they used to make them got kicked

    Got any tips on where you cut it? I'm afraid cutting mine all up and rewelding it is just going to shrink that tubing all over again

    Also keep me posted on the C3... I may follow down the same path if I get some pics on how you did it
    Not sure how describe where I cut it so maybe I will take some pics and post them in a seperate thread.

    OK your going to love this, he didn't use a Jig, he bolted all of the parts up to a V then Tack welded it together. Once he had had it tacked together he took it off of the car and welded it up. If it gets bumped while taking it off of the car he wouldn't know since I'm sure he did not test fit them after they were welded. Some of you may ask how I know this, Well I sent Doug a PM and he forwarded this info to me because I asked about a jig and he told me one doesn't exist. Oh and cutting it is a bit of a pain in the ass and I will write up how I did it.

    The C3 Diff is just a thought now and I will be talking to the shop this week about the installation but since I am a "lazy ass" this may take a while. Oh and to the person that said "this was done before", my answer is "How do you think I got the idea?" I looked at some other IRS diff's and this seems to be the best priced rear that will require minimal cutting/welding to get it to fit.

  12. #57
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    Re: I give up.

    Ahhh that would explain the "shrinkage" on some of them if they were heavy duty welded after tacked in place. That also explains how some fit and some didn't... I mean mine is close... but no cigar. Thanks for the pics I'm sure that will help me save some time.

  13. #58
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    Re: I give up.

    So lazy...


    -- We miss you, JD (Dirt_Cheap_Fleetwood)


  14. #59
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    Re: I give up.

    cautious would be a better word for me

  15. #60
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    Re: I give up.

    Quote Originally Posted by ahahnu View Post
    Been done before........
    I know. He made two, maybe three. One is still in service, in the fastest quatermile timed V. That's whay I'm

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