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10K views 93 replies 15 participants last post by  lollygagger8 
#1 ·
Ok, so I'm getting a Hendrix Clutch/pressure plate. I've decided to go ceramic on one side, and organic on the other. (to not be obnoxiously grabby)
Thomas says it's of the LS7 type. I'm also getting a billet flywheel (same as Spec) which is 16 lbs. to go with it.

So here's some questions for the experts.......

1) Will I have to get a LS7 slave or can I use a LS6 slave?
I'm under the assumption that the LS7 slave will not need a spacer, but the LS6 will? What part numbers am I looking at here?

2) If spacer is needed, does anyone have the dimensions of one? (so I can get one machined) I need diameter, input shaft hole size, width, etc.
Or am I forced to buy the Katech one?
Also, does it go on the inside by the throwout bearing?

3) Has anyone heard of these guys? I wonder if they would just sell the slave by itself?
http://www.corvettedoctor.com/CTSV_Z06_Clutch.html

4) Where's the best place to buy the slave?

5) I've heard that a "notch" is needed, but some have said it's not....does it depend on which slave you use?

6) Does LAPD have the best remote bleeder?

7) Is it mandatory to change out the slave at all? Or is it just good insurance to change out since you are in there?

Sorry for all the questions.....I like to learn as much as I can before diving into installs. I figured with all the brilliant minds on here, we could eventually get some answers, and maybe bring up things that weren't thought of already. Thanks in advance!! :worship:
 
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#2 ·
#3 ·
Hope this doesntcome off thewrong way,i have helped several customers wth recent issues with the level 2s and 3s ,one disc came apart and took out,slave pp,.etcIf you notice any thing funny at all please get it checked!Also i would add,as a paying sponcer do we not have protecton from non sponcers websitesbe posted or dos that not apply?
 
#4 ·
Other vendors on this forum are expected not to post in a thread that you make. If someone is talking about your clutch and another member posts up alternatives however, they're not breaking any rules at all.

The Mods are here to keep everything clean, friendly and on topic- we aren't the thought police and we aren't here to prevent people from discussing alternative products.
 
#5 ·
Discusing yes,posting a link to THERE web site NO,That is not allowed on any other site that im on,thats why we pay to be a sponcer.Just trying to get a feel for what is allowed,this site is run different and for me the better!(well not in this case lol)Thanks for answering so quickly.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Lolly if you are going from a LS6 setup to a LS7 equivalent, then you must change you slave as well... or get a spacer... (it's good insurance to change is anyways.... even if you didn't have to)

Luke has the LS7 slave. I have the part # and price if you want it..

I also heard a notch is needed... then I didn't. My understanding is that if you are going LS7 type slave, clutch, and flywheel then no cutting is needed... but just in case be prepared to take 1/2" off one side or the other !!!! have that sawzall ready baby!!

I'm not sure on the bleeder... but whatever you end up finding and using, I'll be totally ready to shamelessly copy cat you. There are a bunch of guys on here with them so I'm sure they will chime in.... hopefully



I'd say take lots of pics... but you are the one person I don't need to say that to in these boards... good luck!
 
#8 ·
Lolly if you are going from a LS6 setup to a LS7 equivalent, then you must change you slave as well... or get a spacer... (it's good insurance to change is anyways.... even if you didn't have to)

Luke has the LS7 slave. I have the part # and price if you want it..
^Do want^

I also heard a notch is needed... then I didn't. My understanding is that if you are going LS7 type slave, clutch, and flywheel then no cutting is needed... but just in case be prepared to take 1/2" off one side or the other !!!! have that sawzall ready baby!!
I wonder if there is one way to route it so that no notch is needed, like more room on one side of the trans/firewall/whatever....:hmm:

I'm not sure on the bleeder... but whatever you end up finding and using, I'll be totally ready to shamelessly copy cat you. There are a bunch of guys on here with them so I'm sure they will chime in.... hopefully

I'd say take lots of pics... but you are the one person I don't need to say that to in these boards... good luck!
Lol, no that's totally cool....I'd rather everyone possible chime in, so we can all benefit from the "best" setup.

I guess I'll get the LAPD, since nobody else has any suggestions :(
 
#20 ·
Luke mentioned to me that you'll have to swap and use your existing bleeder, so remember to swap those as well.... I think you pry would have figured that out as the LS7 one I think would end up buried "IN" the bellhousing.
It looks just like a little set screw holding the bleeder in then, right?

Does anyone have the dimensions of the Spacer needed? (ID, OD) I know the length is .950. I could have one machined and save myself the $100 or however much they are.

Where's the guys that have done the LS7 clutch swap at??
 
#26 ·
It looks just like a little set screw holding the bleeder in then, right?

Does anyone have the dimensions of the Spacer needed? (ID, OD) I know the length is .950. I could have one machined and save myself the $100 or however much they are.

Where's the guys that have done the LS7 clutch swap at??
The bleeder just screws into the slave. The remote bleeder does the same and with the remote bleeder no notch is necessary.

I sent you a message on LS1tech. Let me know.
 
#15 ·
I did mine on jackstands and I can tell you, you want a lift lol But it is doable. You will need somebody to help get the trans back in. I had my dad with a jack under the tail and I held up the front and stabbed it in. That Tremec is heavy when your on your back. I pulled by myself. Knees under the tail and just slid it back and caught it. Not advisable if you aren't somewhat stong lol
 
#17 ·
Lol, I'm sure I can handle the weight no problem. I've modded everything else to this freakin car in the driveway, so why stop now? :lol:
Are there at least dowel pins to line it up? I'd hate to leave weight on just the input shaft.

You didn't have one of those special X brackets (specially made for trans) on your jack did you? I wouldn't think you'd need one with a manual trans. (no pan to crush)

Also, torque setting for the flywheel/bell housing/whatever else I'm missing would be excellent. This is the one time I'll be using my torque wrench! (ok 2nd.....headers was the first time) ha
 
#31 · (Edited)
No Sir.....Hendrix said he will probably get the flywheel(s) in Tuesday. I probably won't get around to installing it for a week or two.

Randy, why are you getting a new slave? Just for the remote bleeder? How much was your slave, and where did you get it? I'm guessing you got a LS6 slave, right? Which remote bleeder did you get, and how much? (you can PM if you want) thank you Sir!
 
#32 ·
Im doing some checking as well,i much rather use the $100 f body style than a $230 ls7,if it needs a shim i will have a lazer shop make me some and put it in with the kitts,ive just been gettin to many diffeent stories.Mann im just going to buy one of these ctsvs!..How bout a group buy on 1000 sets of axles...LOL
 
#36 ·
Ok just talked to Thomas, he's shipping out the fw/clutch and all that today. :bouncy:

1) So, should I drain the fluid out of the trans before removal, or can I get away with leaving it in?

2) How do you get the fw not to turn when loosening/tightening the bolts? Does the crank just hold it in place, or is there a special tool needed?

3) Are there any tricks to unhooking the master cylinder line? I haven't even looked at the connection yet.

4) Is the only difference between the LS7 slave and the LS6 slave, the length? (like LS6 slave is going to be shorter due to the dual mass fw, and LS7 picks up the slack - and no spacer needed) <- correct?

5) Anybody have the torque settings for all the bolts? ?
 
#38 ·
Thanks for the torque values Darkman!! That's funny.....not sure why you would need to remove the shifter bracket, but ok.

#1....as long as it doesn't spill out all over is what I'm concerned about. Weight.....ehhh

#5 is answered then .....

anybody else got anything?
 
#39 ·
yeah what did you decide on the remote bleeder? :) I just got my LS7 from luke so natrurally I'm itching for a write-up....

Let me know if you need a hand... maybe I'll drive down next weekend I think I have free....
 
#40 ·
I'm calling LAPD and ordering their bleeder. Randy got his from there are said they are pretty cool guys.

Did you get the whole setup then? (LS7 fw/p.plate/clutch/slave)
Did you get a LS7 slave then?

Once I get everything I need, that would be cool if you came down if you have time. We can mess mine up, so your install goes smoothly lol. I don't know if I'll have anything by next weekend though?

I guess I need to get my LS7 slave ordered. Since Hendrix said it's a LS7 type clutch, I don't know if the LS7 slave will work perfect length or not.....I don't know how big the spacer should be, or if there should even be one. I did find this (for measurement purposes) but it's a little confusing to me still
 
#41 ·
That looks perfectly simple to me! Just kidding. I don't see how you could get those measurements w/o taking the trans on and off a couple times... that sounds horrid.

Yeah I got the whole LS7 setup. flywheel, clutch, and slave. I still need to get the bleeder... jury is still out on that one... I was going to get it after the fact and just hook it up, but Luke said with the LS7 you do need to notch it slightly or bend the tube on the LS7 slave (boo to that option) or get a bleeder... so it sounds like getting the remote bleeder during install is highly suggested.

Yeah I'd be 90% confident that your LS7 type clutch needs the LS7 slave for spacing... and that he spacing should be fine with it. I'd order it... it's not overly expensive and getting a spacer made for your used worn down slave doesn't make a ton of sense.

I'm slightly concerned on your diagram there about shim spacing... I didn't get any shims... becuase I was pretty sure I didn't need them.

I'm pretty sure I'm free last weekend in July, if you are going to do it later I'll check to see if I'm free. I heard it's a two man job and since I'm going to be doing it myself (or paying someone) I might as well see what I'm getting myself into... and it would be fun.
 
#42 ·
I'm going to replace the slave regardless.....and install the remote bleeder while it's out. After bleeding it and seeing the $hit that came out of it, I'll be bleeding it every couple months!

You shouldn't need shims since your slave is made for that distance clutch.

What I DO need, is the measurement of your flywheel/p.plate/clutch assy. (the height) Could you get that for me man? That would help me big time, so I have that to compare with the Hendrix stuff. If they are the same, I won't need a spacer!

Ya if you help me on mine, I could always come help you on yours. My Grandma lives in Countryside (couple miles from the UPS hub off 297) so I could stay with her at night and we work on yours during the day.

I guess since we are the only two interested in this, there will be no need to take pics cuz we'll be pros by the end of it all! :2thumbs:
 
#45 ·
Don't forget the pics LG8.

Some of us want to see what you went through. I changed out my flywheel on jack stands but I don't see this happening again PITA. I may need a new clutch soon and if so I would like to hear how this install went and if the LS7 slave worked for you.
 
#48 ·
You didn't take pics when you changed your flywheel!? :tisk: lol
I'll take plenty of pics man.

Got a couple questions for ya:

1) Did the flywheel move when you torqued un the bolts (loosening/tightening) or does the crank hold it still?

2) Did you reuse the same flywheel bolts? (I've heard some people replace them, but I plan on reusing them)

3) Did you drain the trans when you pulled it?
 
#46 ·
Here are the measurements. PM me your email for the pics if you want them... I suppose I could post them up here as well.... not that anyone else would enjoy seeing them

Slave Cylinder

Width of Base 4 7/8

Height decompressed 4 5/16

Height of Diphram shoulder 3 3/4

bleeder screw base to masterline 2 7/8


Flywheel


outer starter teeth side to side 14 1/4

outer edge to outer edge (no teeth) 13 9/16

thickness at thickest point (edge) 1 7/16

thickness lip between clutch plate surface area 1 1/16

flywheel clutch surface area width 2 1/2

flywheel height to clutch surface 1"


clutch plate


total width 11"

clutch plate surface area width 2 5/16

Center spindle height 1 3/4

flat measurement of clutch plate thickness 3/4 - 1 1/4


Assembled

flywheel clearance on the side till clutch 3/16

total height from flywheel mount to top 3 13/16

total height to the top of the fingers 3 7/8



Of course I couldn't find my digital unit... so measuring to the 16th will have to suffice for now. If it's gotta me within the 100ths of millimeters let me know and I'll try to look for it again.

This should give you a general ballpark if your LS7 Hendrix setup will be the same or not.
 
#52 ·
Don't use Royal Purple for engine oil either... I paid mucho dinero for it... and it burned about 2 quarts of oil between changes ( truck motor FTW! ) but notice I have never had any problems with Amsoil or Mobil 1... (only ran amsoil once, every other time ran mobil 1) So I'm sold on Mobile 1 for engine oil... I couldn't believe how much RP that thing burned... back to Mobil 1... stopped entirely... unreal.

Maybe it coated stuff SO well that it went right past my piston rings and got burned up!!!! HAHAHAHHA
 
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