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63K views 391 replies 69 participants last post by  nickweems 
#1 ·
Okay four broken diff's later and no factory warranty on number 3 or 4, I have to find a fix. I broke my last diff about two weeks ago along with the drive shaft and both axles (half shafts)........who wants to know what the parts bill was? I have been running the KARS III kit and it has helped minimize the hop but not eliminate it all together, Well I bought a new carrier and put the KARS kit on minus the carrier bracket (due to the instant whine) put UUC diff bushing in and I believe I cured the hop all together but not with the KARS kit or the bushing. I had custom half shafts made which was GM's fix for the 2009. I'm not sure anyone has figured this out yet. Used was a larger diameter shaft on the left side. These axles use bigger stronger 108mm cv with chromoly cage and race set. The axles are designed to twist at different rates thus reducing the stress on the rear diff and completely eliminating wheel hop. I will put this new product to the test and keep everyone updated. The half shafts are a direct bolt in and swap right in with no other mods. The same design is used by Underground Racing on there world record setting Viper and will support over 1000hp. Kit will run $1800 which is about $200 more than replacing the factory axles from Cadillac, and if we can get together a group buy of 5 sets or more I'm sure we will get a significant discount.
 
#138 ·
Mod's, can we make his "order form" a sticky? Our wheelhop issue is potentially our most important concern that us V owners have. Maybe do like group buys of 10 a shot Nathen? When one group of 10 is ordered, then set up another group of 10 after that etc., because not everyone here can drop that much coin w/o saving a bit up. Thats my house payment ya know :(
 
#139 · (Edited)
this is exactly what I was thinking.. Once I make the order form let's sticky it up. Lets do them in chunks of 10 or 15.. That way I can continue to honor the same pricing for everyone indefinitely. I agree, this is the #1 problem for us V owners and I am happy to help you all solve it!

p.s. mods.. can you turn on my PM system please..
 
#140 · (Edited)
No one reads stickies- I think it's best to keep it here and make a list. You can start a new thread called "Group buy for Wheelhop axles" (or something like that), but as a sticky it will get missed.

When you make the new thread, make a post like the one after this, that way people can quote it and add their name to the list prior to hitting "post reply".
 
#147 ·
#143 ·
I concur...:hmm:
 
#144 ·
I hate to be "that guy" but it would be great if we could get a 3rd party in here to check out his car. This sounds great but just like a million other attempts we had on here...a few said it works but after the parts really get out to the masses, we find that its not really solving the solution. I'm not trying to accuse him of stirring up business or anything, just a simple 3rd party evaluation would really seal the deal for me.
 
#145 ·
he HAS offered let people drive his car. somebody should take him up on that offer. utah is a bit far from me, especially if im mobbing an 88 Ranger :burn:while the V is down hahahaha
 
#146 ·
I'm definately in on this.

As soon as the GB form is listed I'll jump in.

Question though?????

How have the previous solutions addressed the axle shafts? Does the successful Viper swaps or MADMAN swaps use custom shafts? I'm pretty sure that madman does, but are they different sizes like the ones proposed here?

Is it recommended to use the KARS with the shafts or are the shafts alone enough?
 
#154 ·
I nominate Voodoo. He has been making the KARS kits, and knows what to look for. I'm sure there are others...this is just who I have seen results out of as well. I'll pitch $10 no problem, and $20 for Voodoo simply because of my confidence in him as well as his burning desire to rid the wheelhop :)
 
#155 ·
It's gonna take me a while to save up the bucks, but this sounds very interesting.

Not to be a doubting Thomas here, but I have to ask if it is a good assumption that we're seeing a worst-case senario with a V on a dragstrip doing a burnout, it being super sticky and all? I mean, wheelhop would seem to be dependent upon a variety of factors including tire type/size, tread depth, road surface type, coefficient of friction, temperature, etc. I've gotten wheelhop with very light throttle at slow speed on slippery surfaces (snow, wet/rain) ... is this a "fix" regardless of these other variables? If it works on the stickiest of conditions, is that the acid test?

Give me a reason to remain optimistic (which I am, btw :bouncy:).
 
#157 ·
I'm not as skeptical as most, or even necessarily skeptical. Simply a second or third opinion would be nice. After seeing the videos I'm sold honestly. In my V, it didn't care WHAT the conditions were MINUS loose gravel and sand. It always had wheelhop. Then again I'm also running Bridgestone RE050's or something like that. W/ a tread wear rating of 130(?) its gonna hop on anything
 
#159 ·
tweeter81 is in wyoming... not sure how far...
 
#160 ·
I mapquested it and I'm only 531 miles away (about 7 hours drive). I think I could maybe make this happen, but not sure how soon (maybe not soon enough for the Forum)...maybe before the end of May if driving there, or possibly even sooner if flying down there.

Is anybody else a lot closer? What does everybody think?
 
#161 · (Edited)
I am 30 min north of SLC..

that we're seeing a worst-case senario with a V on a dragstrip doing a burnout, it being super sticky and all? I mean, wheelhop would seem to be dependent upon a variety of factors including tire type/size, tread depth, road surface type, coefficient of friction, temperature, etc. I've gotten wheelhop with very light throttle at slow speed on slippery surfaces (snow, wet/rain) ... is this a "fix" regardless of these other variables? If it works on the stickiest of conditions, is that the acid test?

Yes, the track is a lot more sticky than the road. It is a lot harder for me to do a burn out at the track because of how sticky it is. If you listen to my video closely when I went against the Neon you will see my car is slowly just spinning the tires until the engine revs up.. Even with them slowly spinning and chirping the tires still didn't hop.. In the vid with the neon I tried way low pressures in my tires. It was like 20 psi which made it even harder to burn out on the VHT surface which is why it takes awhile for my car to start spinning and rev up. In the vid against the Honda I had my pressure way high and it spun and revved up 10000x faster as you will see..

I was just trying tons of different pressures, launches, etc to try and get it to hop.. I have driven my car in the rain and it just spins instantly.. No hop. Same with driving on the street, it will spin before it hops but I can get out of the hole 10x faster with these axles over stock ones if you use the clutch right as you can see with the GTO vid.. even if it spins a little you can launch way easier and faster without it hopping or blowing up a rear end..

The tires on my car are nitto 555s.. Not the drag radials ( 555r ) .. Which is a high performance summer tire. All I can say is my car hopped REALLY bad before and it doesn't now. In any type of driving condition. Tweeter, I am sure the plane ticket is not very expensive since you are so close. How about you guys start looking up plane ticket costs from your location and we will see who is the cheapest. I am not wanting anyone on here to gamble 1500 bucks and make a stupid decision.. I want you to feel confident that your 1500 will fix the problem. As I said, I don't care what member comes.. You guys can decide on that. But since we have so many people interested I think it's best that we find someone that can come quickly and give a report to everyone in the club. That way we can get the order process started soon so everyone can start enjoying their V this summer.

Let me know..

Nathan
 
#167 ·
Wow I haven't been paying attention to this thread since n20 didn't post a video and everyone had just been complaining.

Sweet! I wish I had some money right now...maybe I'll get in on a future buy. Nice work guys.
 
#168 ·
Wow I haven't been paying attention to this thread since n20 didn't post a video and everyone had just been complaining.
Ditto... sure made my Thursday a happy one. I'm also down for the group buy in the future. I'm going to wait till my diff pops... it's whining like my daughter.... good thing I got a spare one sitting there ready to go in. I'm really pumped about doing the axles at the same time.

Also interested on the H/C setups mentioned earler......:worship:
 
#169 ·
Is it possible to just buy one axle that is bigger than stocker and still have the same anti-hop effect? Or are the two new axles with one larger than the other 'specifically' sized to eliminate the hop? If it would work, I imagine the cost would be lower and a lot more guys would be able to be on this buy. But maybe axles only like being swapped out in pairs and I am completely off on this.
 
#171 ·
if that was the case they would sell them like that.. They are specifically made to handle different twisting rates which eliminates the wheel hop. Plus the material and power limits is much higher on these aftermarket axles.. I am sure it would " help " the hop if you just did one but it is nothing more than a band aid fix.. I still see blown diffs and wheel hop issues if you don't do it right the first time and use both axles. You would still have a weak link with the stock axle..
 
#170 ·
For those of you that are curious about the specs of the axles:

The Outer c.v. stub is a 300M chromoly material with a special double temper, each of the 108mm Porsche style c.v.'s use standard housings but we have changed the internal to a special Ausse tempered material that makes them about 50% stronger than a standard Porsche style end, the center bars are 300M with one shaft being 1-1/8 in diameter and the other being 1-3/8. These shaft are made with rolled splines and our special non-interrupted torque design, this style part is made similar to a torsion bar with no stress risers in the middle of the bar. The inner c.v. stub is also 300M to finish the job off. axles are rated for 800Hp (maybe more depending on driver launch style and track conditions)

I am working out the final steps for the order form.
 
#179 ·
For those of you that are curious about the specs of the axles:

The Outer c.v. stub is a 300M chromoly material with a special double temper, each of the 108mm Porsche style c.v.'s use standard housings but we have changed the internal to a special Ausse tempered material that makes them about 50% stronger than a standard Porsche style end, the center bars are 300M with one shaft being 1-1/8 in diameter and the other being 1-3/8. These shaft are made with rolled splines and our special non-interrupted torque design, this style part is made similar to a torsion bar with no stress risers in the middle of the bar. The inner c.v. stub is also 300M to finish the job off. axles are rated for 800Hp (maybe more depending on driver launch style and track conditions)

I am working out the final steps for the order form.
If I am reading this correctly the inner shaft diameters are 1-1/8" and 1-3/8" as compared with the stock 04-05 version that has a shaft diameter of 1-1/4" and the stock 06-07 version that has a shaft diameter of 1-1/2". This means that the shaft diameters are smaller than stock although the CVs are larger.
 
#175 ·
Dynojetman,
Will DSS replace broken axles? I know my buddies 620whp STi(cover car for import tuner a few months back) used to snap the "1000hp" axles all the time when launching under full boost. Do you think DSS would replace our axles if we end up snapping one? Your description of the axles setup sounds very familiar to the ones being sold to the subaru guys.
 
#177 ·
These are rated for 800 WHP and should hold a lot more. They are warrantied for a year. If anything happens to them he will fix it free of charge. He is really good about the warranties I know this first hand from my buddy in his integra.. He told me he has used this material for years and no one should have a problem with these axles.. but if you do, they will be covered.


You get both bada$$ axles for roughly $1540 shipped, and they are plug and play right?

i.e. We don't have to reuse our stock CV joints or reuse or adjust stock anything.....just remove knuckles/take the old axles out, plug yours in to our stock diff, no spline changes, and go. Right?


Yes.. They are completely plug and play. You use nothing off your old axles. just remove knuckles and bolts and slide your old ones out and slide your new ones in, bolt it all back up and your good to go. No spline changes, etc.. 100% direct swap with stock diffs.

+1 on doctornick's question, and are there any other videos anywhere I can check out?

What type of video do you want me to make? Tell me what you want me to do with my car and I will have someone record it. I am the only V in america right now with these axles.. So I can't show you another car.. But I can show you mine or let you fly out here and try mine.. That's the best I can do.


Alright, I know very little about working on cars and don't feel I can do this myself. I can just take the shit you send to a mechanic and he will do what is needed right? lol, sorry for the stupid question.
If so, pm me DJM. I wanna get on the list!


Yes sir. Any mechanic can do this in 2 hours or less. If they try to charge you more than 2 hours labor tell them to FO and go somewhere else.. It is at lot more simple to do than you think it would be.
 
#176 ·
Lemme make sure I'm understanding this correctly.....

You get both bada$$ axles for roughly $1540 shipped, and they are plug and play right?

i.e. We don't have to reuse our stock CV joints or reuse or adjust stock anything.....just remove knuckles/take the old axles out, plug yours in to our stock diff, no spline changes, and go. Right? :cloud9:

+1 on doctornick's question, and are there any other videos anywhere I can check out?
 
#185 ·
No harm intended.. I just have to be fair to everyone involved and I am doing my best to give you guys as much savings as possible and I hope you all realize it. I don't know of one other vendor that would do it for less than I am. I want to be a part of this site in a big way.. Because I own one of these cars.. So I am not in it to make a ton of money.. I am here to help fellow V owners out because I am sure I will need help with something sooner or later on mine. The sign up list has been created.. Head on over if you are ready to sign up.
 
#186 ·
Here's what getting under my skin, lets say in the beginning my intentions were to market these axles for DSS and make a buck or two in my pocket for a long awaited fix for all of us V owners. I started the thread, you hijacked it the day you joined the forum (24 hours ago) and are now looking to be the one who makes a profit. Here's the deal, can buy the the 10 sets at $14,445.00 to be exact so that equals out to be $1,444.50 plus shipping. So if you guys all want to get in on a group buy, $1444.50 is what I'm willing to go to the DRIVE SHAFT SHOP and place the order out of my pocket and see to it that everyone gets the best deal. Unfortunately I own a Direct Marketing and Media Advertising company and I'm not in the performance parts business to make a profit. Only to help out a great group of guys that are all about helping their fellow V owners out. Or simply get them from Luke in the near futre, as it will be only a matter of time before these are on the shelf in LINDSAYS parts department.:want:
 
#187 · (Edited)
90% of the people are going to pay by card.. do you realize what 3% is of 1500? thats pretty much 50 bucks.. so you take your 1444 + 50 which comes to 1500.. I am selling them for 1530 because I have to be fair to other vendors plus I am taking a small hit on shipping of 12 bucks because its usually 65.00. So yes.. I am making about 20 each on a 1500.00 purchase while doing it legally with a vendorship while still offering to pay someone $100.00 out of my own pocket to come drive my car! I just have to make sure I am not in the hole.. That is why I did the price the way I did. I also have to be fair to other vendors and regardless if you know our costs or not it doesn't matter.. Its the lowest these axles can be sold for on the market so people dont undercut each other. This is the real world.. People must make a profit to stay alive and you of all people should understand that.. What if a guy offered to do your job for free, the job that you do for a living? Is that fair to you? Of course not.. No different with me.

it is the right and fair way to do it. People can't stay in business by undercutting each other and selling them for less than we are allowed too, my hell I am saving you guys almost $250.00 a set! No one should be upset right now, you guys should be giddy as hell... I already priced them as low as I am able to, which is 10% off. I am supposed to make my profit by installing them in my shop, which I wont be doing with this deal and it's fine with me.

He wont sell them to you for that price. He called me after you posted this up and apologized because he wont under cut the people that keeps his business alive. I have to have a business license, tax ID number and a huge buy in to be a vendor.. It's not fair that a regular guy can go off the street and buy them for the same price as me and he realized that. So as a vendor, I am being more fair than any other guy out there... No matter how you slice it, I am about 20-30 more.. But we are doing it legally and the right way and you shouldn't be upset over that. Plus it saves you all the time of doing it since your not making anything to begin with. So why are you so upset? I can't figure it out.. You should be grateful I am not here to screw your fellow friends over..
 
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