2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Z06 Sway Link & Collar Install / Rotor Install in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; I changed out my Stock Sway Bar Links with some much beefier Z06 End links to go with my Hotchkis ...
I changed out my Stock Sway Bar Links with some much beefier Z06 End links to go with my Hotchkis Sways. I also added the Collars (clunk fix) to the inside of the sway brackets to keep the sway from moving too much and clanking into the shocks. While I had it apart, I put on my drilled rotors (which are freaking awesome) I decided to write it all up at the same time, so here we go.
You'll need the following tools to complete the prodecure(s)
15mm, 17mm, 18mm sockets
3/16' allen wrench (or bit)
T30, T40 torx bits
15/32" drill bit
Red Loctite (only if changing rotors)
M10 x 1.5 threaded nuts (z06 sways don't come with them)
Collar Kit from Hotchkis for a CTS-V
You can see in PIC 1 how much beefier the z06 links (silver) are compared to our stock sway links (black) they are also about 2" shorter.
PIC 2 is the Collar kit that comes from Hotchkis. The silver rings are the actual collars, and the slotted bars go underneath the brackets holding the actual swaybar in. They raise up the brackets so the collars will clear the frame, and give a little extra strength.
Once you have your V up in the air and the wheels off, remove the stock sway bar links. The nuts are 15mm bolts, and the allenhead stud in the middle is 3/16". You have to hold the nut with the 15mm wrench and turn the opposite way with the allen wrench. You can see in PIC 3 that the stock sway link is still inserted in the control arm, where we'll drill (#1) in a sec.
PIC 4 (#2) is where you need to use the 15/32" drill bit to drill out that hole larger in order to accomodate the z06 links (since they are larger than stock)
PIC 5 (#3) shows drilling the hole out. Make sure you are drilling it straight on! There's only enough room to do it from backside of control arm on each side. Also BE CAREFUL to NOT hit the ABS sensor wire. But you were smart enough to unclip it to get it out of the way already, right?
PIC 6 (#4) shows me drilling out the Hotchkis Sway Bar since the hole wasn't big enough to fit my Z06 links in either. You can take the swaybar out and drill, or hold it while it's in the car already like I did. Again, make sure you drill straight on!
PIC 7 (#5) shows the new Z06 links installed already. You can see the Torx head (T40). The nuts I bought to fit the links were 15mm. I got em at Lowe's and the threads are M10x 1.5 (I bought nylock nuts) I can't remember the torque values on the nuts (37 or 44 ft lbs?) But snug em up with the T40 bit holding the link stud 15mm wrench turning the nut.
After you do the same thing on the other side, you are done with the Link Install!! Drink some beers.
Now if you got the Collar Kit from Hotchkis it's time for that portion.....
Line up the sway bar to the center of the car. Look for the same amount of clearance on each side. Once you have it where you want it, install the collars.
It's really tight underneath there, so you should really get the 3/16' allenhead bit instead of trying to use a allen wrench in there to tighten them down. In PIC 8 (#7) shows the collars on the INSIDE of the brackets.
NOTE: I installed my brackets so the zerks pointed forwards. That way you can still get to em by turning the wheels all the way left or right and grease em up if need be.
I suppose you could put the collars on the outside of the brackets, but I did the inside. Tighten a little on one side of collar, and then the other side, back and forth until completely secure. (#8) shows where the slotted bracket from the collar kit goes underneath the actual sway bar bracket.
Once you have the collars in, tighten the front bracket bolt (15mm) and the rear bracket bolt (17mm) on each side, grease the zerks and you are done!!
The rotor install is very easy. The caliper bolts are 18mm, and once removed, pull the caliper out of the way and secure it up with a bungee cord, or if you are close enough to the ground, set it on a piece of wood. The Torx screw holding the rotor to the hub is a T40 bit. Loosen and remove, and the rotor will come right off.
Install your new drilled rotors (I bought GM assy ones from Luke) and line up the screw hole with the hole on the rotor, and tighten it back down. C-Clamp on the pads to push the piston on the calipers back in. Put some of the red loctite on the threads of the bolts and retighten them back down. Put the wheel back, on step back and admire your work!!!!
Hope this helps anybody looking at this mod. I can 100% say my V is handling even better than it was before!!
Also, my V is at stock ride height and I haven't had any problems with the Z06 sway links at all! Don't know if the collars help with that or not, but it's better to be safe than sorry! Oh, and besides looking badass....the drilled rotors are the BOMB!
Any questions?? PM me!
(And thanks to my bro Derrick for taking pics!)
Re: Z06 Sway Link & Collar Install / Rotor Install
Pete hooked me up...
You can find him on the forum...Very nice guy and he sticks to his product and supports u the whole way...I have to say with my drivin, i have gone through all sorts of rotors, but these hold tight and true....try drivin at 125mph and slam on the brakes a few times due to a slow driver cuttin you off...I tried DBA and OEM and both started to crack on me with in the first month...I have had these and ran them when it was 55C outside with my habits...I would have to say they look sharp without a single crack...
Re: Z06 Sway Link & Collar Install / Rotor Install
You have benefits with two peices as well as hub bearin longivity...plus its weight off you car and suspension...I took 20lb off the car switchin just the rotors...I think i finally am on my way to to my goal...thus far 100lb+