Easy guide to installing UUC shifter from the top - Page 2

SkullV · #16 (**permalink**) 01-16-08, 09:06 PM

I'm about to bite the bullet on a B&M shifter Tuesday and I was wondering if the install is different in any way then this one? These directions are amazing and I would love for it to be this easy!

Ted

**heavymetals** · #17 (**permalink**) 01-16-08, 09:19 PM

Can't see how it would be.

I just used this method replacing my broken UUC.

Works great (the method)!

SkullV · #18 (**permalink**) 01-16-08, 09:22 PM

By the way Atlantic Speed just got a new shipment of B&M shifters and they are selling on ebay for 199.99+10.95 shipping...just in case anyone thought they were going to run out!

rand49er · #19 (**permalink**) 01-17-08, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keithsm2

where can i get this Dynamat?? ...

Crutchfield's got it. Smallest amount I could get was $20 worth ... I only needed $5 worth and sent three pieces to various people here on the forum.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkullV

I'm about to bite the bullet on a B&M shifter Tuesday and I was wondering if the install is different in any way then this one? These directions are amazing and I would love for it to be this easy!

Ted

Can't imagine there's any difference to installing a UUC vs a B&M.

Twitch · #20 (**permalink**) 01-17-08, 11:33 AM

Quick update. Drove my car over a week with the UUC shifter and it was great. Just installed the UUC knob, and the weight made it much nicer to shift. More fun to.

qweegybo · #21 (**permalink**) 02-25-08, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rand49er

I noticed a whirring sound that, to me, sounded like the synchros or whine of gears meshing when I did mine ... kinda a bit raw and mechanical (duh!), but not at all intolerable. A little bit of Dynamat on the shifter, and it was subdued significantly.

Where and how exactly would you install the Dynamat? would it replace the foam under the shfit boot? thanks for the help.

rand49er · #22 (**permalink**) 02-25-08, 06:03 PM

PM'd you this link. Guess I should let anybody else who cares see this, too.

See post #27 ...

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...row-b-m-3.html

SkullV · #23 (**permalink**) 02-25-08, 09:17 PM

The pictures are back! I had to install my UUC with no photos in this thread! Its really self explanatory though! Great write up!

qweegybo · #24 (**permalink**) 02-25-08, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rand49er

PM'd you this link. Guess I should let anybody else who cares see this, too.

See post #27 ...

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...row-b-m-3.html

Awesome. thanks Randy... I just recieved my UUC shifter/bushings/and knob in the mail today along with new motor mounts.. looks like i should have a good afernoon worth of wrenching after work sometime this week. I love this stuff! Next up to tackle on this car would be the rear center brake light and the Parking brake. I've read up on both already i guess my only other question, would be: has anyone retro fitted the rear neon light with the correct ressistors/amp to run LED's back there? please PM me i don't to take this thread on a tangent.

rand49er · #25 (**permalink**) 02-26-08, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qweegybo

... I just recieved my UUC shifter/bushings/and knob in the mail today along with new motor mounts. ...

Doubt that you'll need the Dynamat with the UUC.

I've driven ronr's UUC without Dynamat and mine with, and they're very similar with respect to sound, feel, etc.

BTW, you'll LOVE driving the car all over again.

CTSV_510 · #26 (**permalink**) 04-02-08, 08:11 PM

OK, attempt # 1 failed.

I couldn't drill out the two rivets holding the stock shifter in. I was ill-prepared with a half-powered cordless drill and an old bit so I will try again with a corded drill and a new bit.

Is this drilling WAY easier to do from the bottom of the car, or is it a marginal difference?

What would you say is the hardest part of this process? It seems like after the rivets are drilled out and you pull out the stock shifter, everything else should be pretty easy.

SkullV · #27 (**permalink**) 04-02-08, 08:13 PM

Do it from the top, you will regret doing it from the bottom. I used a craftsman 19V cordless drill and a new steel drill bit. Make sure you hit it with a center punch so the bit doesnt run all over the place.

Twitch · #28 (**permalink**) 04-03-08, 12:56 AM

If your doing the bushings, they're a bitch. Other than that, you need someone to hold the bolt (that replaces the rivets) from the top while your under the car.

BTW my drill gun died on me with the bit still in the second rivet. Had to yank it out with pliers, but the rivet came out easy after that.

beartrace · #29 (**permalink**) 07-26-08, 09:50 PM

I fiinally got around to installing the UUC and the UUC knob. Thanks Beserer for a great guide. My install went very well because of it, and I am excited to run it through the gears. I drilled from the top, but suggest that if you have a bit which reaches the rivets from the bottom to drill from down low. I ovalled the holes a bit, but a washer on top of the retainer plate cured any problem. I did not have a helper (someone went shopping) but a couple of vice grips held the new bolts in place, and the install went well. Final verdict - it looks terriffic.

jerrad · #30 (**permalink**) 07-26-08, 11:37 PM

But how's it feel?????