Track prep - Best Practices?

[heavypedal]

V-love brought up a good question in my mind.

You guys that track your cars all the time.... Do you have some best practices for us guys that are just getting into it.

That is... heel-toe pedals, tires, what fluids to change, change fluids before or after track day, brakes, suspension, are you in a car club to get on a track, day-of preparation, etc.

Been practicing my heel-toe shifting... but damn our stock pedals suck for it. Talking about having to swing the knee way out. Autovation on the way to save the day.

[heavypedal]

Found a good brake fluid article from the previous thread.... http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml

Get at least 550 temp, Castrol SRF sounds to be the best (but most expensive) brake fluid should be replaced both before and after each event. A cool off lap before each stop will go a long way toward preventing fluid boil due to heat soaking after the airflow stops when the car does.
- brake fluid - get at least 550 dry boiling, change brake fluid at least once a year for normal driving, don't let the installer use pressure bleeders that use pressurized air (can leave air in the lines-baaad)...... still reading

[Feffman]

I'll be tracking my V in 2007 after tracking my Lotus Esprit for a number of years. General prep things I do and we ask our clients (www.MVPTrackTime.com) to do include:

Before You Go:

Full flush with new high temp brake fluid (Motul, Vavloline Synthetic, Castol)
New pads (I love the Carbotech pads www.CTBrakes.com)
Good (Simpson) SA2000 or newer rated helmet (NO motorcycle helmets)
Tires in good shape NOT on wear indicators for street tires (Correct pressure)
Of course no fluid leaks (I swap my fluids annually)
Fresh Coolant (Nothing ruins a track day like overheating)
Safety belts in good shape and properly operating
Long sleeve cotton pants and long sleeve cotton shirts at a minimum
Rubber soled or racing shoes
I just purchased a pop up type shelter (Wal Mart $100) to avoid the sun


While At The Track:

Good nights rest night before
Fill (about 3/4 full) at a local gas station before heading to the track
Eat a light healthy snack mid afternoon
Drink LOTS of fluids (Bottled water, Gatorade, etc.)
Lip protection with sunscreen
If you are new to track days, use the instructors and learn it right
Keep your cool and DON' T think you name is Mario or Michael Schumacher
When you get better, maybe invest in extra rims and track tires
Thank the instructors and track workers
Have fun and make new friends!!!

Just my $0.02 worth!

Mark "Feff" Pfeffer
www.MVPTrackTime.com

[Seattle CTS-V]

Well said...and I've apparently made a few mistakes in track-prep 101.

For one, I still have the original brake fluid and brake pads in my car. I've done 4 1/2 track days. Yikes. Never had any fade but, then again, I don't want to have any! Pads still have quite a bit left in them...so says my mechanic anyway.

[rgd]

I am sure to change my transmission oil after every two or three track days, I change the diff oil at the same time. I never let my engine oil go below 50% wear. I check and replace hydraulic clutch oil when it gets ugly.
These are all very inexpensive yet excellent safety precautions for the car.

I would replace the pwr steering cooler with a better one right away.

Then depending on how into it you get, the sky is the limit...

[V-Love]

I checked the FAQ for proper method to flush and change brake fluid but its not there. Does anyone have the instructions on that? I am going to do a very thorough prep this time. All fluids sounds good. Tranny is on the FAQ. I will check for coolant.

[Feffman]

Originally Posted by V-Love

I checked the FAQ for proper method to flush and change brake fluid but its not there. Does anyone have the instructions on that? I am going to do a very thorough prep this time. All fluids sounds good. Tranny is on the FAQ. I will check for coolant.

V-Love:

I've changed/flushed brake and clutch fluid for years with a hand held vacum pump but recently purchased a Power Bleeder from Motive Products (www.MotiveProducts.com). It works fast, easy and gets a good flush with no air.

Feff
www.MVPTrackTime.com

[calicadi]

You, or someone with a good torque wrench, should do a "nut and bolt" of the suspension and any other dangly bits that might fall off. The list below may help with that. Inspect the underside for anything loose, bent, broken, missing, leaking, etc. Get rid of all objects not attached with fasteners from inside the cabin and trunk (floor mats, Cheetos bags, firearms, ex-wives). Clean out the glove box and lock it. Remove license plates and frames. If you have center caps on your rims, pry 'em out. Trust me, you don't want to be screamin' down the long straight at 150 wondering what that rattle is and miss your brake point. Not sure if sunroof folks should run open or closed. Consider putting red or white 1"-wide tape at 12 o'clock on the steering wheel so you know where "wheels straight" is.

(ALL FIGURES IN FOOT-POUNDS UNLESS NOTED.)

ATTACHMENT – TORQUE - SIZE

WHEEL LUG NUTS – 100 – ¾”
FRONT STRUT TOWER - 83
FRONT LOWER SHOCK BOLTS – 18 - 13 mm
FRONT TOP SHOCK NUT - 18
FRONT STEERING KNUCKLE PINCH BOLT – 44 - 18mm
REAR LOWER SHOCK BOLT – 111 - 21mm
REAR UPPER SHOCK NUT – 18
CORSA EXHAUST CLAMPS – 45
CORSA EXHAUST FLANGE NUT - 22
HOTCHKIS SWAYBAR BRACKETS – 44 - 15mm/16mm*
SWAYBAR ENDLINKS – 37 **
FRONT DIFFERENTIAL CRADLE BOLT – 195 – 24mm
REAR DIFFERENTIAL CRADLE BOLT – 141 - 21mm
DIFFERENTIAL SUPPORT MOUNTING BOLTS – 129 – 21mm


* Stock front and rear swaybar bushing brackets are held by 15mm bolts. If you have a Hotchkis swaybar, the front swaybar brackets use a 15mm and a 16mm bolt. The 16mm is the long bolt that goes through the long spacer. Stock bolts were reused for the rear swaybar.

** Stock swaybar end-link nuts are 15mm. If you now use the shorter Corvette end-link, the replacement nut size may vary. The Corvette end-link bolt has a 6mm hex well to hold the bolt stationary while tightening the nut.

[V-Love]

Originally Posted by Feffman

V-Love:

I've changed/flushed brake and clutch fluid for years with a hand held vacum pump but recently purchased a Power Bleeder from Motive Products (www.MotiveProducts.com). It works fast, easy and gets a good flush with no air.

Feff
www.MVPTrackTime.com

Thanks for the info. I am going to NAPA tomorrow to see what they have. I have a company acct. I can sneak it in on.

[rgd]

Originally Posted by V-Love

I checked the FAQ for proper method to flush and change brake fluid but its not there. Does anyone have the instructions on that? I am going to do a very thorough prep this time. All fluids sounds good. Tranny is on the FAQ. I will check for coolant.

I like self bleeder valves; have had good luck with them. You replace the OEM bleeder valves with the self bleeders and simply loosen them (1/4 turn) one by one compress pedal until desired amount of fluid passes then tighten go to next one...

The bleed pattern is as follows:

RR inside bleeder valve then RR outside valve
RF inside valve, RF outside valve
LR inside valve, LR outside valve
LF inside valve, LF outside valve

Thats it...

[rgd]

(ALL FIGURES IN FOOT-POUNDS UNLESS NOTED.)

ATTACHMENT – TORQUE - SIZE

WHEEL LUG NUTS – 100 – ¾”
FRONT STRUT TOWER - 83
FRONT LOWER SHOCK BOLTS – 18 - 13 mm
FRONT TOP SHOCK NUT - 18
FRONT STEERING KNUCKLE PINCH BOLT – 44 - 18mm
REAR LOWER SHOCK BOLT – 111 - 21mm
REAR UPPER SHOCK NUT – 18
CORSA EXHAUST CLAMPS – 45
CORSA EXHAUST FLANGE NUT - 22
HOTCHKIS SWAYBAR BRACKETS – 44 - 15mm/16mm*
SWAYBAR ENDLINKS – 37 **
FRONT DIFFERENTIAL CRADLE BOLT – 195 – 24mm
REAR DIFFERENTIAL CRADLE BOLT – 141 - 21mm
DIFFERENTIAL SUPPORT MOUNTING BOLTS – 129 – 21mm

Calicadi....

Good Stuff. I know all that info as I search my memory, little notes, blablabla. It's gr8 to have it typed up all in a place i can cut paste and save for later. Lol

[HushH]

Yep, that's great stuff calicadi. Especially the tape idea. Never thought of that but I could definitely see how it would be useful - especially for us greenhorns.

[VelodromeRacer]

I have tracked with Feffman a few times, he knows how to do it, but let me add...
1-After you run a session, check the tire pressures, they build pretty quickly and then you do nothing but slide around unlessyou let some air out.
2-If you want to tape your sessions, buy a cheap suction cup video camera mount at stickypod.com
3-After a warm down lap, get to the pits and open the hood, I use an infared gauge to check temps and make sure fluids are not leaing before the next session.

Just another 2 cents worth.

[v-ape]

Maintain at least 1/8 of a tank of gas. During hard turns, you could starve your engine of fuel. Dont ask how I know this...

I agree with rgd on the power steering. I actually lost my powersteering before getting on-track last event.

[VelodromeRacer]

RGD,
Where did you find a suitable power steering cooler that will fit?
I agree that our stock unit is crap, My first track day, I was fighting PS fluid boiling or surging out of the PS fill cap.