broken radiator, help..
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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V General Discussion Discussion, broken radiator, help.. in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; I was replacing my tstat and leaned on the small barbed line on top of the radiator and broke the ...
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    Mongopush is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    broken radiator, help..

    I was replacing my tstat and leaned on the small barbed line on top of the radiator and broke the fitting. Its the small line the goes back to the fill tank. Does anyone have a simple fix without replacing the radiator? I'm thinking maybe drill it out and tap a new brass or plastic fitting. I tried some plastic epoxy but didn't feel to good about it, I took it back apart. I'm afraid the heat and moisture may break it down over time. I've tried the typical site/web search's but nothing that shows our style of radiator.

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    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    The only long term repair is replacing the radiator.

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    Re: broken radiator, help..

    I have a radiator you can have for $20 plus shipping? I just replaced it with Alradco radiator. I pressure checked it and it checked out fine, It would just seep a little anti freeze, enough to get a drop or two hanging from the bottom of it after a while.
    Other than that, I think I would try and tap it with a 1/8" NPT.

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    Soooo it didn't check out fine...

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    Re: broken radiator, help..

    Held 15lbs. of pressure for 8 hrs. without dropping, you tell me. Couple drops could of been from the hose connection, I dont know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 69stangscj
    It would just seep a little anti freeze, enough to get a drop or two hanging from the bottom of it after a while.
    ^^That^^ is a leak - Failed radiator.

    Quote Originally Posted by 69stangscj
    Held 15lbs. of pressure for 8 hrs without dropping, you tell me.
    ^^That^^ describes a non leaking radiator.

    So which is it?

    Or by "not dripping", do you mean the droplets didn't drop off the bottom of the radiator onto the ground?

    To be clear, if ANY liquid wound up on the outside of the radiator, after any amount of time, the radiator has failed.

    Quote Originally Posted by 69stangscj
    I dont know.
    You should probably double check then, before someone spends time and money installing a broken part.

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    Re: broken radiator, help..

    Ok, I noticed no antifreeze at all on the ground, but if I crawled under the car I found a damp spot and I wiped it with a white cloth, it was orange. So I pressure checked the system with a pressure checker, pumped it up to 15lbs. and left if over night. Checked it the next morning and it did not drop a lb. So with all the hype on here about leaking radiators, I took it as an opportunity to get a new Alradco radiator. When I installed that, I put new hoses on it. So, would I call that radiator bad? No, not if it held 15 lbs. for 8 hrs. Was it seeping fluid around the hose or someplace else, maybe, I don’t know. I noticed one drop at the hose area when removing it. I was just looking to help someone out in a pinch if they didn’t want to buy a new radiator instead of throwing this in the trash. Soooooo, I would say it is good.

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    Ok, so you tested the entire cooling system as a whole, and found coolant on the radiator. So the radiator wasn't tested by itself. But seeing as you replaced the radiator, you must have suspected that it was the radiator that was leaking. As would I if I found drips of coolant on it.

    So you have an untested radiator that you suspected was leaking, but are selling it as good... Sounds legit.

    $20 is a great price, but not for a possibly (likely) faulty part that isn't exactly quick and easy to install...

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    Re: broken radiator, help..

    I suspected the radiator because of the hype on here, because of the hype, I was looking for something. But after replacing it, I suspect that if I just had replaced the lower hose clamp, that would have fixed the issue. No fluid that I noticed on the radiator it’s self just at the hose connection. But, I’m just guessing here, because I didn’t diagnose any farther. So, if someone had more time than money, $20 plus shipping.

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    Re: broken radiator, help..

    I will also add, that if I tested the radiator by it’s self, it too would have held 15lbs. for 8 hrs. so, I’m going to go out on a limb here and say a radiator shop would have tested it and said it was good. But I’m sure they would not have tested it for 8 hrs. Nice debate man….

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    Quote Originally Posted by 69stangscj
    I will also add, that if I tested the radiator by it’s self, it too would have held 15lbs. for 8 hrs. so, I’m going to go out on a limb here and say a radiator shop would have tested it and said it was good. But I’m sure they would not have tested it for 8 hrs. Nice debate man….
    Ok, clearly you're not seeing the point. You pressure tested the cooling system, and found drips of coolant on the radiator (according to your first post), and /or near the hose connections (according to your later post). You said yourself that you don't know what was leaking.

    Usually, during a static test of the cooling system (car not moving), drips on the bottom of the radiator indicate a failed radiator.

    If a shop tested the radiator, independent of the rest of the system,, and ANY amount of liquid came out of it, after ANY amount of time, at ANY pressure, they would not say that it passed, they would say that it had FAILED. A radiator is part of a sealed system. There are no acceptable leaks. A drip is a leak - Fail.

    You want to debate? Ok.

    My point is.

    -You performed a static cooling system pressure test.

    -The result was drips of coolant on the radiator.

    -You failed to complete the diagnosis and see what exactly was leaking, and threw parts at the car, BUT, coolant on the radiator after a static pressure test almost always points to a failed radiator.

    Your argument is:

    -The leak could have been from a hose or clamp.

    -You prove this by not having tested the radiator independently, and stating several times that you "don't know".

    -If a shop tested it and it held pressure, they'd say it passed. Regardless of weather or not it was the cause of the drip.

    -a shop wouldn't have tested it for 8 hours.

    ...Actually, it isn't uncommon for a GOOD shop to leave the system pressurized overnight. And why is 8 hours so impressive? It's going to be in the car for more than 8 hours, isn't it? And if it's leaking, it's only going to get worse.

    "I have an untested radiator that I replaced because it could have been leaking, I don't know. But it's good."

    Yeah, great debate indeed my good sir...

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    Re: broken radiator, help..

    LOL.... You took my last statement as sarcasm (nice debate), it was not. I was thanking you... I do see your point. My point is, the radiator I have may last someone 2 years if they are in a pinch and need one, maybe some seeping, maybe not. Or it could explode on the first start up, who knows. Just trying to help someone out.

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    Mongopush is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: broken radiator, help..

    Thanks for the offer on the radiator but I've just tried a better epoxy from Loctite for now. Its designed for plastics and it good up to 3200 psi and 302 deg. It wont fully cure for 24Hrs so I've just tested it with a few idling heat cycles. So far it seems OK, fingers crossed. If not I guess I'll just hunt down a radiator shop and see what they can do.I've been reading online some shops actually repair plastic tanks. I'm afraid if I try to swap the radiator, I'll just end up breaking something else they ways my lucks running. I simple $8 tstat swap has turned into a real pain..

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    Mongopush is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: broken radiator, help..

    Ok, so epoxy will not hold. I couldnt get it to bond.

    Here's what I came up with..

    I got a 1/8" x 2" mip



    I pre-drilled the plastic ,then heated the fitting up and used it while hot the thread the plastic.


    I threaded the fitting with teflon tape to help seal it.


    Finally I used JB Weld Marine to help secure and clean up the look.



    My question is, what does this line do? I'm thinking it's just an overflow to the fill tank. Reason I ask is now the opening to the radiator is larger than before. When it broke it was only about a 5/32" opening into the radiator and gradually got larger to meet up with the hose connection. Would the extra flow be a problem ?

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