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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V General Discussion Discussion, Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post) in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; B+ is "battery positive" or 12-14volts. Basically, it's saying "are you getting the same voltage at the fuse as you ...
  1. #31
    AngryHog is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    B+ is "battery positive" or 12-14volts. Basically, it's saying "are you getting the same voltage at the fuse as you do on the battery's positive terminal". Generally, a reading of 1 means you're reading above the range of your current setting. Like set for a 2 volt range and trying to display 12 volts...it will just show a 1. Make sure you're on the 20 volt range, DC.

    -AngryHog

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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    Ok, that makes sense. I appreciate the help. I'll go outside tomorrow and redo that test. Before I do, though, I need to know what to do for the next step. It says to measure the voltage at the ignition 1 voltage circuit. That's obviously different than the previous step where it says to measure the fuse. Where do I measure to get the ignition 1 voltage circuit voltage?

  3. #33
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    Just an FYI,
    I had a bad switch, Threw the same code, and the cruise control did not work.

    In my case the switch was bad. When I replaced it I looked at the old one and the return springs were mangled and broken. Interesting that the new one did not fix it but it is possible the new switch went bad. When I had it out of the car and looked at it, all I could think of was what a total piece of crap. Don't take this the wrong way, it is only ~25 bucks from Rock Auto (Yes, it was AC Delco) so that probably explains why the quality is not very good.

    I am thinking about replacing it every couple of years anyway.

    Okay, back to the OP's problem. Since this switch just makes contact when fully in or fully out I would recommend checking the switch even though it has been replaced. It could be a problem with the ECU but I would think the GM Techs would have caught that when the switch didn't fix it. Either the switch went bad again or you may have a wiring issue (My guess).

    BTW, that switch is a pain in the butt to change.

    ----------

    Good Luck and Happy hunting.

  4. #34
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    See attached.

  5. #35
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    Quote Originally Posted by Destram View Post
    Ok, that makes sense. I appreciate the help. I'll go outside tomorrow and redo that test. Before I do, though, I need to know what to do for the next step. It says to measure the voltage at the ignition 1 voltage circuit. That's obviously different than the previous step where it says to measure the fuse. Where do I measure to get the ignition 1 voltage circuit voltage?
    The PDF Darkman provided is perfect.

    If I understand the circuit correctly, you should see ~12 Volts on Ignition 1 voltage (Pins A and D of the Connector on the Clutch Switch). So what you will want to do is to take the black probe (From your meter) and find a good bare piece of metal under the dash and attach it. Next insert the red probe into Pins A and D and see if they have 12 volts.

    If that is okay then I would check Pin B, it should have 12 volts on it with the clutch all the way out.

    It seems the car starts okay so if this is the case then you must have the 12 volts going to either A or D or the car would not start.

    I'm curious to see what the failure is.

  6. #36
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    Been awhile, but here's the update: I went ahead and took it to the dealership and had them replace the PCM like they said the problem was. The CEL code is now gone and my cruise control finally works.

    The PCM they first ordered and I paid for was $686. Apparently it was the wrong one, though, and the next one they ordered was much cheaper. I ended up getting a $118 reimbursement today when I picked up my car. So $568 for the part, labor, and getting it flashed. That's not as bad as the almost $900 I think they originally told me.

    Unfortunately, my CEL is still on because of a bad cat (PO 420 code). Is this something I should look into getting fixed? The dealership, as you can imagine, is trying to rip me off by saying it's like $700 or something to fix, but that's because, rather than just replace the bad cat, they say they would also have to replace the headers.

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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    Did the dealer say why the header - (I am assuming the exhaust manifold) - needed replacement? The catalytic converter is a separate part altogether and exhaust manifolds are cast iron and rarely break. With all the CTS-Vs running aftermarket headers/high flow cats there must be used cats and exhaust manifolds available.

  8. #38
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    As far as I know, the header is fine. He said they would replace the header because "issues may come up if you just cut off the cat and weld a new one on." Seriously.

    Edit: And if I remember right, he claimed they can't order just a new cat.

  9. #39
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    Quote Originally Posted by Destram View Post
    As far as I know, the header is fine. He said they would replace the header because "issues may come up if you just cut off the cat and weld a new one on." Seriously.

    Edit: And if I remember right, he claimed they can't order just a new cat.
    I suspect the dealer is talking about the pieces of pipe to which the cat body is welded. Altogether, it is a single part that bolts to the exhaust manifolds on one side and to the cat-back system on the other. See attached. The cat part numbers are 10358089 (left) and 10358090 (right).

  10. #40
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    love the colors! right down to the grille and wheels!


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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    I suspect the dealer is talking about the pieces of pipe to which the cat body is welded. Altogether, it is a single part that bolts to the exhaust manifolds on one side and to the cat-back system on the other. See attached. The cat part numbers are 10358089 (left) and 10358090 (right).
    Thanks for the info.

    http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=10358089

    This is the cheapest I've found that part you listed. For some reason I was thinking the catalytic converter was like $80. Is $332 a realistic price? That's cheaper than what the dealership told me, but I thought the dealership was outrageous too.

  12. #42
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    Check with Luke at Lindsay Cadillac for a price - GM Direct often stings you on shipping and handling. OEM cats are not cheap. There are some aftermarket alternatives, but most will not consistently pass the cat efficiency test run by the rear O2 sensors, which forces you to get a tuner to tune out the rear O2 sensors.

  13. #43
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    If I'm going to spend that much money on this, I might as well put some more with it and get some more performance out of this car. What are my options to replace the cats and get more performance? I've read about long tube headers, but I'm not sure what all is involved with that and not having my CEL come on.

  14. #44
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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    With the rear O2 sensors off, the performance options include: Bolt on high-flow cats with existing manifolds, which does give some gain in horsepower (perhaps 15) with a little more noise - these cats are not compatible with long-tube headers; Long-tube headers with high-flow cats, which gives a little more horsepower when tuned (about 25) with somewhat more noise than the first option; and long-tube headers with no cats, which provides about the same horsepower as with cats (about 25), but will not pass a visible check for cats (not every inspector bothers to look under the car) and will exhibit the odor associated with non-catted engines.

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    Re: Cruise control and other problems (also serves as an "I'm new" post)

    What do you mean when you say there is more noise? Will it be unbearable while driving?

    What long-tube headers/high-flow cats combo do you recommend? And you say with the rear O2 sensors off..do you mean completely removed or tuned to make them not work/not throw any kind of CEL?

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