Ok so I finally got my Gforce 9” rear end installed and took many pics on the way. It probably looks way more involved than what it really is, but it wasn’t that bad if you aren’t a rookie to working on cars. There is some cutting and welding that needs to be done, and maybe some fab work to your exhaust (depending on type) so make sure you know that going in. My buddy and I did this over the weekend on jackstands and plenty of tools. Grab the popcorn, and let’s do this……
Tools you'll need:
24mm Socket (Front Cradle Bolts)
21mm Socket (almost all bolts/nuts on knuckle are this size)
21mm Gear Wrench (Nice to have)
34mm Deep Socket (Spindle Nut on Hub)
18mm socket (Caliper Bolts, driveshaft adapter bolts)
19mm wrench (new driveshaft to output shaft adapter bolts)
10mm alllen wrench (Diff Drain, brake line holder )
Long 1/2" Breaker Bar
Long Pry Bar
9/16” deep well socket (stud bolts to hold housing to pumpkin)
9/16” box end wrench (bolts on axle retainers)
5/8” allen wrench (must be allen wrench) for fill plug on Strange Pumpkin
Impact Wrench
Torque Wrench that reads up to 200 ft lbs.
Beer of Choice
Parts:
Gforce Strange Pumpkin, 9” housing, Gforce Axles, Gforce Driveshaft, and all parts included in kit
Black Permatex Ultra or Red Anabolic Gasket Maker (your choice)
Red Loctite (for all bolt threads)
1/8” or 3/16” flat metal stock (your choice)
Sawsall and/or Grinding/Cutting Wheels
Welder
80w90 Non Synthetic Non limited slip Gear Oil (3 quarts)
I take no responsibility for morons that hurt themselves. I didn’t get hurt during this install, but I’m not a moron. Lol.
When placing your V on jack stands, make sure you don’t jack up on the cradle, since that entire assembly is coming out. Once you get a suitable place for your stands, get the wheels off. Let’s get the old axles and stock diff out of the way.
Removing the old axles:
Once you have your wheel off, Remove the Spindle Nut. This spindle nut is 34mm. You don't have to remove the Torx Bolt (T40) if you don't want to. But I did since it’s easier to see the axles splines behind the hub upon reinstalling.
Look at the picture below. You need to place a drift punch or equivelant(I used the allen wrench) in between the slots in the rotor and the caliper. This will keep the rotor/axle from turning while you are cranking down on the spindle nut. *Move the punch/allen wrench to the under sire of the caliper when you are TIGHTENING the spindle nut.*
Once you've removed the Spindle Nut, time for the caliper. The top bolt is longer than the Bottom Caliper Bolt
Now it's time to remove the Ball Joint from the Hub Assy. It's a little hard to get at, but you won't need an extension. (pic shows with rotor removed)
If it doesn't come out on it's own, coax it with a rubber mallet. It should seperate after a couple decent taps.
Time to remove the Trailing Arm and Tie Rod.
Remove the lower Shock Bolt from the Hub Assy. You might want to put a jack under the lower control arm so the bolt is easier to get out.
Remove the lower bolt holding the Hub Assy to the Lower Control Arm.
Now that everything is free, grab the Rotor and pull the Hub assy from the axle splines to seperate the two. If it doesn't want to come off, coax the axle end with the rubber mallet (or plastic side of the mallet) and it should come out.
Here's a pic with all the Bolts out and the Hub Assy removed from the Axle.
Now it's time to put your breaker bar in between the diff and the axle CV joint itself and seperate the two from each other. It doesn't take brute force by any means, all you are doing is getting the snap ring to let go. It will "pop" once you have gotten the two to seperate. (the fluid residue you see is from the vent)
We’re going to leave the diff in the cradle for now since it’s much easier to take out while out of the car. We’ll just lower it with the cradle.
Removing Exhaust and Driveshaft:
Now it’s time to remove your exhaust. Once exhaust is off, remove the bolts marked (#2) in the picture. On the diff side are Allen Head bolts and are 8mm. (#1) is where the half shaft/drive shaft hit the floor board when my first diff broke. Put a jack stand underneath the "drive shaft" to keep the weight of the front bolts holding it to trans.
The bolts on the trans side are 18mm. Gear wrench helps big time here.
Tools you'll need:
24mm Socket (Front Cradle Bolts)
21mm Socket (almost all bolts/nuts on knuckle are this size)
21mm Gear Wrench (Nice to have)
34mm Deep Socket (Spindle Nut on Hub)
18mm socket (Caliper Bolts, driveshaft adapter bolts)
19mm wrench (new driveshaft to output shaft adapter bolts)
10mm alllen wrench (Diff Drain, brake line holder )
Long 1/2" Breaker Bar
Long Pry Bar
9/16” deep well socket (stud bolts to hold housing to pumpkin)
9/16” box end wrench (bolts on axle retainers)
5/8” allen wrench (must be allen wrench) for fill plug on Strange Pumpkin
Impact Wrench
Torque Wrench that reads up to 200 ft lbs.
Beer of Choice
Parts:
Gforce Strange Pumpkin, 9” housing, Gforce Axles, Gforce Driveshaft, and all parts included in kit
Black Permatex Ultra or Red Anabolic Gasket Maker (your choice)
Red Loctite (for all bolt threads)
1/8” or 3/16” flat metal stock (your choice)
Sawsall and/or Grinding/Cutting Wheels
Welder
80w90 Non Synthetic Non limited slip Gear Oil (3 quarts)
I take no responsibility for morons that hurt themselves. I didn’t get hurt during this install, but I’m not a moron. Lol.
When placing your V on jack stands, make sure you don’t jack up on the cradle, since that entire assembly is coming out. Once you get a suitable place for your stands, get the wheels off. Let’s get the old axles and stock diff out of the way.
Removing the old axles:
Once you have your wheel off, Remove the Spindle Nut. This spindle nut is 34mm. You don't have to remove the Torx Bolt (T40) if you don't want to. But I did since it’s easier to see the axles splines behind the hub upon reinstalling.
Look at the picture below. You need to place a drift punch or equivelant(I used the allen wrench) in between the slots in the rotor and the caliper. This will keep the rotor/axle from turning while you are cranking down on the spindle nut. *Move the punch/allen wrench to the under sire of the caliper when you are TIGHTENING the spindle nut.*
Once you've removed the Spindle Nut, time for the caliper. The top bolt is longer than the Bottom Caliper Bolt
Now it's time to remove the Ball Joint from the Hub Assy. It's a little hard to get at, but you won't need an extension. (pic shows with rotor removed)
If it doesn't come out on it's own, coax it with a rubber mallet. It should seperate after a couple decent taps.
Time to remove the Trailing Arm and Tie Rod.
Remove the lower Shock Bolt from the Hub Assy. You might want to put a jack under the lower control arm so the bolt is easier to get out.
Remove the lower bolt holding the Hub Assy to the Lower Control Arm.
Now that everything is free, grab the Rotor and pull the Hub assy from the axle splines to seperate the two. If it doesn't want to come off, coax the axle end with the rubber mallet (or plastic side of the mallet) and it should come out.
Here's a pic with all the Bolts out and the Hub Assy removed from the Axle.
Now it's time to put your breaker bar in between the diff and the axle CV joint itself and seperate the two from each other. It doesn't take brute force by any means, all you are doing is getting the snap ring to let go. It will "pop" once you have gotten the two to seperate. (the fluid residue you see is from the vent)
We’re going to leave the diff in the cradle for now since it’s much easier to take out while out of the car. We’ll just lower it with the cradle.
Removing Exhaust and Driveshaft:
Now it’s time to remove your exhaust. Once exhaust is off, remove the bolts marked (#2) in the picture. On the diff side are Allen Head bolts and are 8mm. (#1) is where the half shaft/drive shaft hit the floor board when my first diff broke. Put a jack stand underneath the "drive shaft" to keep the weight of the front bolts holding it to trans.
The bolts on the trans side are 18mm. Gear wrench helps big time here.