2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V General Discussion Discussion, removing driver's side seat 06 CTS-V in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; The motor that tilts the seat back and forward is blown (at 5K miles!). I a paid the local GMC ...
The motor that tilts the seat back and forward is blown (at 5K miles!). I a paid the local GMC dealer $84 to tell me this today. Motor is 88 bucks and I paid an extra 15 to overnight it from Tenn. Tech was busting me, saying "dude, just put the freaking thing in yourself. It's only two 10 mm bolts to undo the entire seat cushion top and once you do that you have full access to the motor, which is two more bolts and a plug to make it run." Anyone ever done this? I feel stupid not taking his advice-made it sound so simple. Maybe I should try doing it at the dealership parking lot and if I fail at least I will have access to the tech. I have to drive there to pick up the motor anyway. It's #5 in the diagram.
Well, it depends on how easy you want it to be, and if you want to remove the seat, how good your back is. I've had my seat out numerous times and although I've seen these motors, I've never tried to change one. You could try first with the seat in the car and then out if you need to.
To try with the seat in-- move the seat back up to 90 degrees or so (oops,maybe not in your case, but try to get it straight up if you can)..and also move it forward some. Then get in the back seat.. Next to the driveshaft tunnel you'll see a plastic cover on the floor- pop it off, under that is bolt #1. It's a hefty star hex pattern, not sure of the number but I can check later. Remove that bolt. The other bolt is opposite that one and actually hidden somewhat in the frame rail which attaches the seat to the car frame (doesnt bolt to the floor). Depending on how far you've moved up the seat, this bolt may or may not be blocked so you'll have to check first. Once those bolts are removed, you can see that the seat will tilt straight up if you lift it.. Each side of the front rail frame is has a J-shape and just sits in cut grooves cut into the floorboard, so if you lift up pretty good and pull back, you'll get it out of these grooves (you may want to put the headrest all the way down and tilt it forward for more clearance). Once you've gotten the seat out of the grooves, just leave it there. Now get out of the rear seat and approach from the front driver entry- now that you have the seat out of these front grooves, you can pull it forward some (dont let the front fall back in!), then tilt it allll the way back against the rear seat using the rear frame rail as a pivot point. This will give you access to the underside. Not comfortable, but accessible. You'll be working on the floor basically, not a comfortable position from outside the car either...
Note: there is a blue/yellow power connector just under the front edge of the seat- this is the airbag connector. I've not recommended to remove the power cable from the battery yet because of the subtle movements via power you may need to perform to get to the parts you want to remove.. This connector and others are wired by a big bundle that gives you room to work under the seat without removal. DISCLAIMER-- I can't speak to the possibility of the airbag going off while fiddling with this, but once you get everything lined up I would disconnect power (thats what I do anyway- just keep your head down)
Now, once the seat is on it's back so to speak, depending on where these access nuts are to remove this motor, you may or may not have to remove the bottom seat cushion to get at it. If the tech said you did, well that doesn't really mean sh*t. I'll tell you from seeing it 10 times that you may or may not be able to get to them without removing the cushion. I would be more curious about removal once disconnected and reinstallation...no big deal. read on.
To remove the cushion, while the seat is on it's back, you'll notice how the pastic frame for the the cushion (above all this electronic mess) has what looks like reinforcements on the sides. At the rear of these reinforcements, you'll see where this plastic frame has been set into grooves in the seat frame itself. Follow that line forward about a foot and you'll see 2 (#10) nuts that hold the entire seat cushion/cushion frame on. Again, depending on whether or not you've moved the seat forward the right amount, you may not be able to access these nuts but once you find them and remove, the seat cushion just pulls up and away from the assembly (still attatched by a power wire), and you can either then access this mess from the top, or you may have to stick with accessing it from below....which at that point will tell you if the seat has to come out of the car.. If you have to remove, check that you have current access to these #10 nuts (no power when seat is out), then undo the battery cable. Tip: The key to easy seat removal is to have the seat back at 90 degrees and the seat forward about to where the front of the cushion is even with the front of the lower rails.
Seat Removal: I never knew if GM was trying to see if one was messing around with these parts or not, but there are 2 blue "tabs" on the airbag connector that can be "squeezed" at one end to and slipped through the slots to remove them without damage...then you pull out the power connector. If you pull before removing these, they'll break. This may not be an issue with you if not under warranty, if not- don't worry about it, just remove it but make sure the power is disconnected from the battery before you do this.
Once that is done, basically once you've disconnected all the other power connectors, you can pull the seat forward and then yank it out of there, but it's kind of heavy. I've done it myself some times and others I've had to ask the wife for help (last resort). Be careful on removal, make sure you dont scuff the steering wheel or other entry points with the frame of the seat. If I have to, I usually make the B pillar take the hit and save the wheel etc.
Once out you can flip the seat on its back and see what a piece of garbage it is... just remember to check the location of those #10 lower seat cushion nuts BEFORE you disconnect power and take out the seat- make sure they are accessible, or you'll be cussing because you can't move the whole thing back and forth once the seat is out of the car. Once out, you can decide whether or not to remove the cushion to get at the motor....
thanks for taking the time and having the patience to write me such a detailed repair scenario. I got up the testicular level last night, said F it and attacked the GD front seat. Actually, there ARE two tiny 10 mm nuts that just hold the CUSHION in place. Once those are removed (easy) you just grab the front part of the seat cushion and kind of pull up while pushing back, if that makes any sense. The WHOLE cushion just pops out independently! This gives the complete amateur (me) access to the entire under seat workings, unencumbered by the cushion. Cushion is gone-out of the car and on the ground! Now, me, the hack newbie, has complete access to all of it. I had that motor out in 5 minutes. Left seat in the "loose position" and will drive to dealer today and attempt to reassemble in his parking lot. I'm quite sure I can do it, but I have back up if I fail. I noticed 4 or 5 loose washers, nuts, bolts left under the seat from when they looked at it yesterday. Probably should follow up with tech on what his strategy was for those. Again, thanks for your help. Should seat motors completely fail at 5K miles! Service manager said "first one Ive ever seen in 30 years!" Think about it-those motors are designed to be used probably over a million times in their life. Makes me think "does this ever happen on MB or BMW?" Also noticed all the parts under the sear are signed, but the signatures are in what looks like gang grafitti. Comes from Detroit, I believe?