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How to replace starter's piggy back connector

23K views 28 replies 12 participants last post by  Jolcoracer 
#1 ·
Hey guys. My starter's been on the fritz and I'm replacing it this weekend. I had a look the other day and snapped a few pics of the toasted and broken piggy back connector. I wonder if the starter itself is actually fine, but the broken connector is actually what's causing the problems. Regardless, I want to know how I can replace this connector, or of it's even possible. Any ideas? Part numbers would be great too, if anyone knows em.
 

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#5 ·
What orientation is the solenoid connector normally? When looking up from the bottom, I am looking at the top of the connector, where the clasp is. It seems like I should be looking more at the side of it, similar to the orientation shown in the pigtail image.
 
#6 ·
mines toasted a bit too, and for a while my car wouldn't start, i have tightened up the power wire like crazy, and it seemed to help for a few months, now when i tighten it the solenoid pack starts to move, worked good a while longer after that, crapped out yesterday again tho! im thinking it may be either the solenoid connection? or that wire that looks nice and toasted, maybe i'll order in that delco part number and giver a shot
 
#9 ·
Hopefully you guys are still watching this thread. I have a concern/question about the new piggy back connector. I've got everything installed and the V is starting like a champ again, but I didn't foil/heat/protect wrap the new piggy back wire like GM did with the rest of the wiring in that area, nor did I shrink wrap the sleeve connector that connects the original piggy back wire to the new one. I didn't have that foil type of tape, and to be frank I didnt have much time and I just needed to get the job done.
What I DID do was cut that starter heat wrap blanket in half (~4" wide) and wrap it around the solenoid, starter motor, and connections. There wasn't enough room to get the 7" wide wrap around the entire assembly, which is why I cut it in half and protected from where the solenoid starts, forward. So the plastic piggy back connector itself is protected, and I tucked the new wire behind the starter/heat wrap and away from the exhaust manifold as much as possible, but it's still going to be exposed to some significant heat.
My question is, Is that thing just going to melt if it's not insulated in some type of tape?
 

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#10 ·
... nor did I shrink wrap the sleeve connector that connects the original piggy back wire to the new one. I didn't have that foil type of tape, and to be frank I didnt have much time and I just needed to get the job done.
Not quite following you on your explaination but make sure the connection can never touch ground. (???)

...What I DID do was cut that starter heat wrap blanket in half (~4" wide) and wrap it around the solenoid, starter motor, and connections. There wasn't enough room to get the 7" wide wrap around the entire assembly, which is why I cut it in half and protected from where the solenoid starts, forward. So the plastic piggy back connector itself is protected, and I tucked the new wire behind the starter/heat wrap and away from the exhaust manifold as much as possible, but it's still going to be exposed to some significant heat.
My question is, Is that thing just going to melt if it's not insulated in some type of tape?
Looks fine from the pics above. I couldn't either get any material around the mounting base (cast) of the starter but I did get most around the solenoid and the stamped steel portion of the starter. Any protection is way better than what GM offered. As long as the heat shield can block the infrared radiated from the pipe/cat to the starter you should be fine. I used a temp gauge to measure the temp off the pipe/cat and see 650F+ off this area. This will blast a starter.
 
#12 ·
I don't have a ton of faith in those butt crimps in something exposed to heat and weather like that wire. But this is GM's official recommended repair. Probably enough to get through a warranty period in most cases, so I guess that explains it. Soldering would be a better approach and THEN shrink tubing. Sometimes soldering isn't practical, though.
 
#13 ·
I solder everything but it was really difficult to get an iron up there along with not having the risk of molten solder landing on me. I just crimped it. The area is shielded from splash and I really doubt that any significant amount of water would reach it or affect it. The heat alone would dry it some. If it was a Jeep that gets submerged in a river than my approach would be different. The V would be in a junk yard with 250,000 miles on it before it would corrode from any water exposure.
 
#16 ·
That single wire to the starter provides power to the starter's internal solenoid when the starter relay in the underhood fuse box is activated/energized. For charging issues you need to verify the wiring for the regulator circuit between the PCM and the alternator's internal regulator (LS6: Gray wire, Orange wire).
 
#19 ·
Mine just crumbled apart in my hands too! It was so bad, I couldn't even tell what wire went were.
So just to be sure, there are only two wires going to the solenoid, correct? the one pigtail that crumbled (about a 12 guage?) and the thicker wire that goes on the solenoid terminal end, tightened with a nut. Is that right?
 
#24 ·
Thanks for that, Darkman. I realized I had to remove the two nuts on the catalytic converter to exhaust manifold on the driver side too then down it all went. You're right, it is heavy...
Still can't get the starter out because the rear most bolt on the exhaust manifold is preventing removal of it.... so I got out my sawzaw and began cutting away at the lower 1/3 of that bold but I think it's made of diamonds or something becausse I've gone through two sawzaw blades so far and only 1/2 way through the bolt. SO! I'm off to Depot to buy more blades.

So now that I essentially have the cats fully removed, I looked at my Summit mag. Would be nice to just put in some high-flo cats but none seems like they are direct replacements. ie) looks like I'd have to buy connectors and collectors and such.

Then ALSO while I'm at it, may as well install some quick-time cutouts, right?? Wouldn't that be cool. I probably won't though. Don't know what size to get and not sure how to install...
 
#25 ·
Thanks for that, Darkman. I realized I had to remove the two nuts on the catalytic converter to exhaust manifold on the driver side too then down it all went. You're right, it is heavy...
Still can't get the starter out because the rear most bolt on the exhaust manifold is preventing removal of it.... so I got out my sawzaw and began cutting away at the lower 1/3 of that bold but I think it's made of diamonds or something becausse I've gone through two sawzaw blades so far and only 1/2 way through the bolt. SO! I'm off to Depot to buy more blades.

So now that I essentially have the cats fully removed, I looked at my Summit mag. Would be nice to just put in some high-flo cats but none seems like they are direct replacements. ie) looks like I'd have to buy connectors and collectors and such.

Then ALSO while I'm at it, may as well install some quick-time cutouts, right?? Wouldn't that be cool. I probably won't though. Don't know what size to get and not sure how to install...

Auto part Engine Fuel line Pipe Vehicle
 
#26 ·
I ended up being able to maneuver the starter out with just the cats/exhaust out of the way. Took some effort to twist it the right way, but didn't need to shave a bolt. I ended up having to basically drop all of the exhaust hangers and pull the exhaust back to get the cat out. Just too tight otherwise.
 
#28 ·
I am not sure if you guys know, but the CTSV starter is the only starter that I have found that uses this connector.

My solution and what I would suggest. Go get a starter from a 6.0 Chevy truck. It takes a ring terminal.

With your busted connector, remove all plastic and crimp on a ring terminal and you are forever done.

I wrapped mine as well and it is much quieter and now protected.
 
#29 ·
The pigtail connection in my 2004 V with 150k miles was damaged and disintegrated as I attempted to unplug it from the original starter. As you can see in the photos the plastic housing at the end of the solenoid was damaged as well. I purchased a rebuild kit from https://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/pg260l/ and the new solenoid included a post type connection rather than the plastic plug. The 30 minute online video is very detailed and straight fwd. Other than some basic tools you will need two E Sockets, #5 and #6. A set can be had at Harbor Freight for $10. I did not replace the drive end housing bushing. Some Lithium Grease and and new eyelet plug and you should be set to go. In my case the starter removal was straight fwd. I did not cut the upper exhaust bolt nor did I have to remove the driver side CAT or any hangars. It might be because I have a set of Creative Steel Engine mounts that gave me a bit more room. Also, some quick disconnects on the lower side of the CATS helped with the passenger side CAT removal.
 

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