I read in the tips that the tire pressure sensors could be reset by turning the key to the on position hitting the lock unlock on your fob until the horn honks and then putting air in or letting it out of each tire in a particular order.
Has anyone got this to work? I tried as my TPS dont match the screen on my dash. So the front RH is actually the LH rear etc...I flipped the lock and unlock probably 20 times and no horn so thats as far as I got.
The tire shop that mounted and balanced the wheels were unable to get it set up with their hand held electronic connector either.
You don't need any magnets. Just turn the key to on/run but don't start the car. Then on the key fob, hold lock and unlock at the same time until the horn honks. When it does, start at the left front and work your way around. You can either put air in or let it out, doesn't matter.
So if I do get the horn to honk by pressing the lock and unlock at the same time will the horn honk after each wheel is set as described in the above link? I assume it will also honk twice on the last wheel to let me know its the last tire set?
there's different 'tricks' i've seen people do to get the tpms to 'program' (stronger magnets etc)
we used to hold our special programming tool up to the top of the valve stem, but sometimes that didn't seem to work
someone gave us a tip to try pointing it through the sidewall of the tire and that seems to work the best
the sensor is really not very close to the tip of the valve stem, but only a little bit through the sidewall of the tire and the rim edge so give that a try if you haven't
I had to let 6-8 psi out of each tire to get a horn confirmation. it also seemed to honk only after I stopped releasing air. and yes two honks after the last tire.
That was the case for me too. I had to let an awful lot of air out, and sometimes it seemed to honk only after I stopped, so maybe that was why it took so much air.
You don't have to keep letting out air till it honks. If they are working properly, I let air out for 2-3 seconds and move on to the next tire. Then it honks, and I let air out the next.
I can start to program the TPMS sensors, get the honk, let air out of driver frt, honk, then pass frt, honk, then pass. rear, honk. Driver rear no honk. When I get back into the car its the driver front that reads---. WTF. The driver rear says it has 31 psi in it but I didn't get the two honks saying its done. Any ideas. I had a nail in my tire and the pass rear went low with the DIC still reading 33 psi in it. I have tried to re- program fours times over the last month all with the same outcome.
i tried to reset after the driver frt starting going in and out. Then I rotated and have tried three times since to reprogram. Its hard to get to the dealer due to when I work but I think I may have to make a trip. Will their computer be able to reprogram even if it isn't working manually?
I figured that was the case, but I do get a honk on Driver front when I let pressure out. That indicates it is getting a reading Correct?:hmm: But yet it still reads "---". The pass. rear that was low still read ~33psi even tho it only had 10 psi. I don't want to replace the wrong one and waste money.:banghead:
Thanks for the help.
Just a little more info, I purchased the car back in Sept '10 and the Dvr frt was not reading at the time of sale. Two days later it came on and stayed on for weeks with no issue. Then went out and has not came back on since. Which is why I have tried to re-program manually and rotate and re-program. Really have no other issues with the car electronically with radio or the like.
if there's no double honk then it probably didn't take--and what it's showing for "--" as the driver front tire is actually the driver rear tire that's not responding. what's the battery life on these sensors?
One of mine went bad last year. Front tires both honked and were programed. But when I got to the RR it would not honk. So I pulled out one of my winter rims, used it in place of the RR. It honked and I moved on to the last rim (LR). Now I have three reading correctly, with "--" in the RR.
What I'm saying is, if one is bad, you'll have to skip that one and the next tire will show in its place. Or just move it to the LR (if you can) and the other three will read correctly until you can get a new sensor.
the car doesn't know you've rotated the tires until you fully program all four tires... so the readings are for where the tires used to be... unless i'm misunderstanding the situation
edit: Aurora40 is correct... it won't shuffle around the location of the tires until you get the ending double honk ... notifying you that the car knows which tire is which and that they're all reading okay
Does it have to be mounted on the car to be programmed? Meaning, if I use my spare to "fool" the system (leave in trunk, until I get the sensor replaced or exchange rims). That way I can at least get to comp mode or turn off stability sys. Not too concerned if it is actually reading the real pressure. Just want to use those functions.
the sensors do have batteries in them, most manufactures expect 7+ years of function from them, dont know what gm says itll be though. i agree you just have a bad sensor in the lr wheel. since it doesnt monitor the spare, id just take it somewhere and have them swap the two sensors, then you should be able to program it up fine and have it be functional
I don't think the TPMS sensors are actually RFID. They communicate on the same channel that the remotes use, just a standard radio signal. RFID is usually much closer proximity than the sensors operate at, anyway.
there are no initiators or anything, just the sensors an antenna, and the module(which i believe is integrated into the i/p) the sensors know when the car is moving based on centrifugal force, and send signals that are picked up by the antenna module when they think they should, at different time intervals based on whats happening... less often when stationary, more often when moving, and they are forced to repeat their signals when pressure changes, thats why they can be programed by changing the pressures, once in 'learn' mode, the module just looks for the repeated signals as ties it to a wheel position
Yeah I wondered about that myself. But if the originals last 8 years, that's not too bad. Also, RFID seems most useful when it simply responds with a set code when stimulated. TPMS sensors have transducers to change pressure into an electrical signal, obviously. So the RF signal varies.
Im in the process of making a TPMS Emulator setup for my V. I just finished all the wiring diagrams tonight for the most part, just gotta power one up and start testing some stuff.
And as for those saying something about the transmitter not really near the valve stem and more inside the rim, that's incorrect.
The sensor actually uses the valve stem as the antenna.
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