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Custom short shifter ordering process.

165K views 792 replies 196 participants last post by  07cadv 
G
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here is how to order one of my custom modified stock shifters. The final cost is $110 + your stock shifter with a $75 core charge. I also offer the UUC bushings (that I purchase from Luke and keep in stock) for an additional $30. These make a huge difference and are highly recommended.

1. Paypal either $185 or $215 to ........................ Be sure to include the reason why you're sending me the money and your shipping address in the notes section of the transaction.

2. I'll ship you a modified shifter via USPS Priority Mail (2-3 day shipping). I include detailed directions, a drill bit to drill out the stock rivets, new stainless steel hardware to replace the rivets, a tube of white lithium grease and a tube of lok-tite.

3. Swap out your old shifter with the new one and return your stock one to me. Please try to include the small items attached to the rectangular end, these include two nylon bushings, two rubber seals and one metal sleeve.

4. Upon receipt of your stock shifter I will refund the core charge of $75 via the same Paypal transaction.
 
G
#355 ·
Wow, I am terribly sorry for any inconvenience that I've caused anybody. I am not in the business of shafting anyone for $300. I have had multiple issues lately with work and personal life. I let the shifters get behind and I cannot appologize enough. Here is where I stand as of today.

Jonathan - shipped on 12/1, delivery confirmation number emailed.
Daniel - Packaged and going to the post office this afternoon. I will email a delivery confirmation number.
Scott - Packaged and going to the post office this afternoon. I will email a delivery confirmation number.
Ramon - Packaged and going to the post office this afternoon. I will email a delivery confirmation number.

Dimitry - Have a core and working on it this week.
David - Have a core and working on it this week.
Stephen - Waiting on a core, expecting one this week.

Brian
 
#356 ·
I recieved my shifter on Saturday, impressed with the quick shipping. Very nice piece. I have the 17th of December scheduled to complete all the work on the Caddy, can't wait to get it installed. Other than the UUC bushings, are there any other mods recommended to remove play?
 
G
#357 ·
I designed my replacement bushings in the base of the shifter to be tighter than the stock ones, this is where much of the play comes from. The other spots are the UUC bushings, pivot ball housing (not too likely, but if yours is really sloppy I have some spares laying around that I would send to you free of charge), the pivot at the end of the shift lever connected to the trans (I have no cure for this) and the pivot that attaches the shift rod to the lever (I have some brass bushings for this, but this requires removal of the trans to install).
 
#360 ·
the pivot at the end of the shift lever connected to the trans (I have no cure for this)
I have done everything you can to tighten up the shifter. Everything... This is the last frontier. Next time I drive through Indiana I plan to stop by rpm and see if a new one has this same play in that piece. If my heater core hadn't gone out in the rustang I would have researched further and probably repaced it but I had to get the V running.. It seems some degree of teardown is necessary if it required replacing the entire rod, which scared me a bit even though it looks like you just take off the top plate to access.. Nonetheless, taking a trans apart is not diy stuff so I moved on.

My shifter is super tight and firm/rifle bolt like into every gear, which I love. Since the last round of improvements the biggest advantage has been getting into 5th which I can do with precision and speed without a second thought...




I also have a spare set of those bushings for the base of the shifter that come with Brian's shifter. If someone is all stock and would like to try them out, pm me and I'll toss them in the mail.
 
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