Strange "problem" with the V

[BiGIVIiKe1]

Just going to make this short and sweet and I'll answer any questions when asked, that's if anyone can help!?

Installed a new Iraggi 300amp alt, had tight spots during steering, changed to new smaller belt to compenstate for the smaller pulley, still same issue. Now while driving I'll lose power for a sec than everything will kick back on (engine still running) gauges will flash off than back on almost like I turned the ignition off than back on...Any Ideas?

Same issue just a lil diff-Pull on to a main ave started to accelerate hard than "it" happened again but I lost some motor power too, like the car bogged for that split sec. than everything was fine.

Any suggestions guys I'd really appreciate them!!! Thanks in advance!

[perfect]

Why do you need/have an Iraggi 300A alt? Those are beasts and I didn't even need one when I was pushing 5000 watts of RMS car audio. Are you in the car audio scene?

A big alternator like that is going to take significantly more engine power to generate that kind of amperage. I'm assuming your engine power loss issues are related to this effect.

The fact that your losing the dash lights for a split second also sounds electrical related. Can't be too much of a coincidence that you just installed an alt and are now having electrical issues. Did you upgrade your big 3 engine wiring as well?

[BiGIVIiKe1]

Yes did the big three, Yes I have car audio...
Power loss is not noticeable at all with this alt. It bogged when i was trying to accelerate nothing to do with the size of the alt. These electrical probelsm started happening 2 weeks after the install. I just had steering issuses right after install an still now.

[BiGIVIiKe1]

A true 10,000 watt system, you would need at least 3 2400 kinetik batts and deff. at 300amp h/o alt. With that amount of watts you'd be drawing close to 500amps from your batteries and you'd also need something to be replenishing that draw and I don't think a 150-200amp alt will really cut it.

[BiGIVIiKe1]

Also during accleration the alt did not have a load on it....music was off. Any ideas guys?

[perfect]

Originally Posted by BiGIVIiKe1

Power loss is not noticeable at all with this alt. It bogged when i was trying to accelerate nothing to do with the size of the alt.

Absolutely could have something to do with the alt. A higher current capacity alternator will effectively rob the engine of more power to keep that load. Doesn't matter if you have a load (audio) or not, it needs that extra power from the engine to generate current. It won't need the engine power constantly but I've seen plenty of cars jump to oversize alts and have noticeable power loss. Edit: let me rephrase this...if you have no load on your alternator (as your claiming) than the engine won't require any extra effort to drive the alternator. However, depending on what kind of pulley you have used (and how significantly different it may be from the original alt pulley) it can cause engine bog during hard acceleration.

The steering problems I have no idea about. You said you went with a different size belt..maybe it's slipping and that is causing it to bog?

What audio are you running? Do you dB drag?

I'd write Dominick (Iraggi) and see if he has any comments: dominick@tds.net He's always been super helpful for me in the past.

[BiGIVIiKe1]

Thanks for the help PERFECT....
Anyone that has any other ideas that could help I'd really appreciate them...
Belt is NOT slipping, Size of my ALT is not making my engine BOG, Engine bog was due to the electrical issue....Any idea how to diagnose the electrical problem?

[BiGIVIiKe1]

I went with the pulley that Iraggi sent with the Alt, I also went with the belt that he suggested as well, slightly smaller than stock, helped with the tight spots slightly but they are still there....

[perfect]

Originally Posted by BiGIVIiKe1

Thanks for the help PERFECT....
Anyone that has any other ideas that could help I'd really appreciate them...
Belt is NOT slipping, Size of my ALT is not making my engine BOG, Engine bog was due to the electrical issue....Any idea how to diagnose the electrical problem?

How are you not making this connection?

You installed an aftermarket H.O. alternator
You have "electrical issues" that are affecting your engine (causing it to bog)
Yet, claim that the alt isn't the culprit?

Have you tried monitoring the voltage coming from the alt to your battery? And not just monitoring it with the in-car battery voltmeter or a standard DMM, but an actual scoping voltmeter or DMM that can show transients and spikes (or sags). The ECU/computer on the car is sensitive to over/under voltage and could easily be affected by an alternator.

As far as the steering goes I don't have much comment on how the new alt could be causing steering "tightness". Perhaps your belt is tensioned too much..I don't know Steering "tightness" to me sounds like you are losing power steering responsiveness and the only way I could image how you could introduce that is to have a belt that isn't properly spinning the PS pump.

And don't be a ass to me since I'm the only one in here offering you advice.

[BiGIVIiKe1]

I'm not being an ass! Like I said thank you for the help!
You just sound like a bit of a know it all to me with out realling understanding and witnessing wat is happening. And your so set on this ALT causing My 400+hp motor to BOG! If anything it was more of a studder. But It really doesn't matter I'll take it to cadillac I know the service guy real well!!
As far as the spikes go in voltage, I haven't checked that ...That was more of the advice I was looking for bro thank you....That actually sounds like it could be that. But question is...How can I prevent that?
I was going to install my MLA Module from Missing Link, I'm sure your familiar with that company. Do yo think the MLA will help with that problem? Since it regulates voltage and bypasses the PCM/ECU....
Should I install an In-line Fuse from the ALT to the BATT, I've seen a few set up this way but did't really think it was correct...
Again thanks for the advice, I do appreciate it....An I did understand your point with the alt causing powerloss, I'm well aware it takes more motor to spin that beast!
My set up isnt complete, just getting everything done lil by lil....
I'm looking to possibly wall off the trunk with 2 FI BTL 18'S, With A US Amp....I still have a bunch of ideas floating around not to sure yet.
I'm currently running 1 12" FI BTL tuned to 32hz, with 2,000 watt rms running at 1ohm. It's pretty damn loud, havent metered it yet. All JL Componets and 1 1800 Kinetik and 1 2400 Kinetik.....

[Zo6PwRd]

sounds like you need to install the factory alternator and belt and see if that fixes it(because it will), then go from there.

[perfect]

My apologies for assuming your thank you was insincere.

I do have a lot of experience in car audio (I did dB drag with a pair of RE XXX 18's -- the precursors to your FI BTL 18's -- with a pair of Tru Technology Sledge Hammer SH-1s in semi-walled Ford Explorer). There aren't many people on this forum who have car audio experience so you probably won't get much help from them (save for a few car audio V guys).

I take back what I said about your engine bogging. I think we were talking about different things and I didn't initially understand your first post (it's hard to figure out exactly what is occurring in so few words over the internet..).

Yes, voltage transients/spikes can certainly cause PCM/ECU issues. From my limited knowledge of the V's ECU it is a fairly temperamental device. On other 5.7l GM engines I have seen H.O. alts and more robust electrical systems actually cause problems. If you think you're having problems now, just wait until you have a high demand load on it!

I'm not familiar with the MLA Module. I'm not into the competitive car audio scene anymore and don't run high wattage systems where problems like this exist.

You can definitely put a fuse on the ALT+ to Batt+. It should actually be there according to most big-3 guides but it's not really necessary. Grounding is hugely important with H.O. Alts. By upgrading your big-3 you should have a dedicated, robust ground from the ALT- to Chassis- and from the Chassis- to the Batt- (if memory serves me correct). Bad grounds can cause real havoc on your ECU.

My recommendation beyond the power steering issue would be still contact Dom directly. He has seen and heard of every conceivable issue that can arise with alts. If anybody knows the answer it would be him. There used to be a dedicated subforum on Termpro.com but I haven't been there in years and don't know what or who is still around that answers questions.

Just FYI, I'm running a pair of IDMAX 12's with a pair of Treo 1500D amps powered by the stock alt and a pair of yellow tops. 0 AWG throughout. Good luck with your install and please accept my apologies for assuming you were being a jerk!