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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V General Discussion Discussion, Spark plug change = blood on driveway in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Originally Posted by silver02stang darkman - did you get the 45 or the 180? i can't really tell the difference ...
  1. #61
    darkman's Avatar
    darkman is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    Quote Originally Posted by silver02stang View Post
    darkman - did you get the 45 or the 180? i can't really tell the difference and they are both the same price
    I have the 180s because the 45s were not offerred at the time. The 45s look like they would fit even better.

  2. #62
    silver02stang's Avatar
    silver02stang is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    ^^^ thx.

    after all that i'm leaning towards Moroso Ultra 40's. the FireCore's seem like a bit better but Speed Inc. is offering them on eBay for $57 and i can pick 'em up when i'm in Chicago tomorrow. with only basic bolt-on's (not even headers yet) i think these should suit me fine for the time being.

  3. #63
    zinner's Avatar
    zinner is online now Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    I will give my experience, which wasn't as bad as many describe here.
    0) Get some mechanics gloves and wear them, my hands were fine afterwards.
    1) Prep makes all the difference, and by prep, I mean removing the coil packs and battery. They all come off super quick, especially if you have a power driver on the studs and bolts holding it together.
    2) I used a channel locks to get the plug boots off, just a lot of wiggling and pulling gets em off eventually.
    3) spark plug socket and universal joint gets the plugs out and back in, don't forget anti sieze.

    I gapped my plugs using a tool to .40, the came gapped at .32 or so.

  4. #64
    silver02stang's Avatar
    silver02stang is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    zinner - what plugs did you go with? my ngk's were pre-gapped so i left them alone.

  5. #65
    kevm14 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    I just ordered a set of stock AC Delco iridiums...I'm not quite sure what the fuss about NGK is except that they used to be a good choice. I took out a set of Bosch Platinums in my old Camaro (they were known for being "bad" with LT1s) and put in a set of TR55s...no difference. I've had good luck with stock AC Delco plugs for every application. Got a blower or nitrous? Well that might be different...

  6. #66
    zinner's Avatar
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    Quote Originally Posted by silver02stang View Post
    zinner - what plugs did you go with? my ngk's were pre-gapped so i left them alone.
    I wanna say the NGK 5 IX plugs. They were pre gap'd, at 0.32 and I read somewhere stock was 0.40 so I just gaped them to that. In reality probably doesn't make a whole lotta difference, just running a cam and headers.
    jokswgn and jokswgn like this.

  7. #67
    kevm14 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    I just did my plugs today so I figured I'd add to the thread with my experience.

    I pulled out AC Delco 41-985s and installed 41-110s. I believe the 110 supersedes the 985. The gap and overall plug condition on what I presume were 100k mile 985s seemed satisfactory.

    I started on the driver's side to give myself a chance to warm up to the job before attacking the miserable passenger side. I pulled the 18mm shock tower brace bolts and the brace. Then the engine cover. I started by removing the plug wires from the coils. Not too hard. Twist first to loosen and try different pliers, gently. Next I removed the 10mm coil pack studs and disconnected the harness, to pull the entire coil pack assembly off the valve cover.

    Removing the plug wires from the plugs was a little bit of a challenge but not too bad. The trick was to grab the end of the plug wire boot (not the shield, as I found out later) with pliers (use whatever fits and holds it tight enough). Then I used a 24mm box wrench to pry on the pliers using the valve cover as leverage. The reason I say don't use pliers on the shields is because it will just slide back the entire shield AND boot end of the plug wire. Using pliers on the rubber part of the boot helps squeeze against the wire itself to prevent this. I didn't break anything, but I had to slide the boot back enough to stick a large pair of needle nose in there and use a wrench against them to pull the wire off the plug. I just slid it back when I got it out and nothing is damaged.

    For the plugs themselves, I used a regular 5/8" plug socket and made a ~1" extension by inserting a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter into the socket then a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter into the first adapter. I did unplug the coolant temp sensor at the front of the driver's side head first for clearance. This side overall was not a big hassle. I used anti-seize on re-installation. Getting the wires back onto the plugs wasn't bad either. I used a combination of my hands or pliers on the end of the boot. The coil side needs to snap twice, I discovered. The plug side seems to snap only once.

    The passenger side is probably what everyone is wondering about. Well, it's definitely tighter, but I did not need to remove the dipstick OR battery/tray. The only plug that gave me trouble was the rearmost and I'm not sure why people say to go in from the bottom - the cat is clearly in the way. Pulling the battery/tray wouldn't really help, either. For me, the clearance issue was the ground wire on the rear of the head. I simply removed it, pushed it out of the way, and I was able to get to that plug using just the 5/8" plug socket and ratchet, no extension. I took this opportunity to clean the ground wire, bolt and head surface.

    It still took me basically the entire afternoon, but I wasn't really rushing, and I only ripped my latex gloves once. No blood at all. Not entirely sure what everyone is cutting their hands on. I used mechanics gloves up until it was time to pull the wires off the plugs as I needed the dexterity and clearance that latex gloves provided.

    Maybe this will help someone on the fence. Changing plug wires is still much, much more of a PITA in an LT1 F-body than this was.

    I can't tell too much of a difference. It MAY run smoother, and I'll monitor mileage.

  8. #68
    chet is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    This is a very informative thread so thanks to all, I just want to share the fact that my wifes daily driver 04 V has over 140k miles on the original plugs and it runs like new.
    Original clutch also. I plan on waiting till I get a misfire code or 200k miles whichever comes first

  9. #69
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    branland is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    Quote Originally Posted by kevm14 View Post
    Maybe this will help someone on the fence. Changing plug wires is still much, much more of a PITA in an LT1 F-body than this was.
    I had and LT1 F-body with headers. (RIP) To get at the last two plugs I had to drop the exhaust and remove the starter.

    This car was not that bad. I would recommend the boot puller from Summit. It made the job a whole lot easier.

  10. #70
    mtbryan816 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    Are there torque specs for the plugs and any of the other items removed? Thanks.

  11. #71
    Slartibartfast is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Spark plug change = blood on driveway

    Finally got around to doing this. The left rear plug was the worst, but I didn't need to remove the battery or tray, just the ground wire, which was pretty easy. Fortunately I was replacing the wires, too, which worked out well as I trashed a couple of the old wires pulling them off the plugs. I did find that it was much easier to remove some of them (mainly the rears on both sides) from underneath. A long screwdriver stuck up there to wiggle the boot and heatshield off was much easier than trying to wiggle them off in tight quarters from above. I wound up doing this with several from underneath. Much easier in my case.

    Still took me all day. I'd starve as a professional mechanic, but I could probably do it in an afternoon a second time around.

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