Changing clutch fluid

[ewill3rd]

I have been using the GM stuff and it gets pretty gummy, can be real bad for drivers like Trukk.
It also seems to disappear... not sure what that is about. I haven't seen one leaking yet.

If the car is in for other service I'll usually do it for about 50 bucks or so. It isn't a big deal once you figure out how to work it.
Some places might charge more depending on how many they have done and how much they don't like V's.

[benelliwang]

Originally Posted by mbiker97

The bleeder is on the driver side of the trans almost touching the body tunnel at the top. It's in a awful spot. Did the same steps as listed above, but made my friend pump the clutch for me. I may have to install one of those remote bleeders since the system seems to get contaminated really quickly.

Sounds like it is no harder to reach then a C5, good deal.

[Civardi]

Originally Posted by ewill3rd

I have been using the GM stuff and it gets pretty gummy, can be real bad for drivers like Trukk.
It also seems to disappear... not sure what that is about. I haven't seen one leaking yet.

If the car is in for other service I'll usually do it for about 50 bucks or so. It isn't a big deal once you figure out how to work it.
Some places might charge more depending on how many they have done and how much they don't like V's.

HMmm so find a shop, get a firm price and make them deal with it. I like that idea. I got a price of $170 to change the oil, trans fluid, and diff. Thats with me having the RP and AMSOIL.

[Jayrcr3]

I did a hard 2-3 shift the other day and thought I was imagining things. My clutch pedal stuck to the floor for about a 1/4 second before it came up. Evidently I wasn't imagining it. Now I know how to fix it. Thanks guys.

[trukk]

Originally Posted by Jayrcr3

I did a hard 2-3 shift the other day and thought I was imagining things. My clutch pedal stuck to the floor for about a 1/4 second before it came up. Evidently I wasn't imagining it. Now I know how to fix it. Thanks guys.

FYI, there is a TSB for that issue. Check the FAQ.

-Chris

[atdeneve]

Getting into 1st and R was not a problem about 1,000 miles ago (getting into second was actually harder than getting into 1st). Now, it's a real bitch. Lo and behold, my clutch fluid was below the min, at about the F A G (no, I'm not prejudice). Didn't make sense, being that all the fluids were supposed to have been full about 1,000 miles ago. The clutch fluid reservoir is pathetically meek, but still, couldn't believe that the fluid would have gone down that fast. Anyways, suctioned out the old black fluid and wiped away the congealed gelatinous stuff. Topped it off (I use RBF 600) and it still isn't good as it was. Clutch engagement is more abrupt. Less control. Not as linear. All this leads to more clunking. Next step is the flush.

The rate that the clutch fluid in our Vs gets so dirty/black and disappears is astounding. It can only worsen the shifting problems. Getting into gear will only be that much more difficult. Synchros will wear out. Shifting gets worse and worse. It's like you have to do a full flush at least once an oil change. Such a high maintenance bitch, she is. Eh. Yagottado, whatchagottado.

[C66 Racing]

Using my Z06 for track day use required frequent clutch bleeds. I got tired of having to drop the center section of the exhaust, remove the tunnel plate (which has something like 36 bolts holding it in place) and finally bought and installed an LAPD clutch bleeder extender. What a time saver. For those tracking the car and needing frequent clutch bleeds, I would install an extender line at the first convenient opportunity.

As a caution, on the Corvette, routing this extender line up to by the clutch reservoir requires routing it very near the fuel line. On a buddy of mine's Corvette, the aeroquip line of the clutch bleeder extender wore through the fuel line and caused a fire. I had installed my line in rubber sheath so I didn't have the same problem - and I recommend anyone installing this line consider doing the same.