Brake Duct Kit Pricing - Page 4

DgtalPimp · #46 (**permalink**) 07-02-09, 03:24 PM

Don't get me wrong I am not knocking he Brembos. I just thought the link would be interesting in this thread.

One thing I did note after the upgrade is the fade/fell. While the Brembos are nice, the Baer Extreme Plus system blew me away. I expect it is the same as the LS6 is nice, but sticking a maggie on it sure "wakes her up".

Also I should have written in my post "better brakes AND ducts".

Paisan · #47 (**permalink**) 07-02-09, 08:37 PM

Guys, better brakes won't help you out in terms of heat. 2 piece rotors help marginally, but ducts are a must for anyone who seriously tracks their cars. Also if you track your car get the cheapest rotors possible and just replace them more often. 2 Piece are nice bling but in actuality you can get a ton more cheap rotors than you can 1 set of 2-piecers.

-mike

thebigjimsho · #48 (**permalink**) 07-03-09, 12:57 AM

Ever price the rotor on a 2 piece? Not so expensive...

rjoffe · #49 (**permalink**) 07-03-09, 01:06 AM

Did we ever get pricing on the uuc rotors?

AAIIIC · #50 (**permalink**) 07-03-09, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thebigjimsho

Ever price the rotor on a 2 piece? Not so expensive...

From what I've seen they're more expensive than conventional rotors, though, and that doesn't even take into account the initial $850 to get the full rotor/hat setup. There may be other vehicles for which there are more common (read: cheaper) rotor sections, but 14" rotor sections just aren't that cheap.

Don't get me wrong, I like 2-piece rotors. I have them for track duty on my Subaru, and on that application it looks like the original rotor sections are going to last damn near forever. But that's a 3200#, underpowered/slow car that's easy on brakes, not a 4000# behemoth that's trying to haul itself down from 130-140mph.

thebigjimsho · #51 (**permalink**) 07-03-09, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAIIIC

From what I've seen they're more expensive than conventional rotors, though, and that doesn't even take into account the initial $850 to get the full rotor/hat setup. There may be other vehicles for which there are more common (read: cheaper) rotor sections, but 14" rotor sections just aren't that cheap.

Don't get me wrong, I like 2-piece rotors. I have them for track duty on my Subaru, and on that application it looks like the original rotor sections are going to last damn near forever. But that's a 3200#, underpowered/slow car that's easy on brakes, not a 4000# behemoth that's trying to haul itself down from 130-140mph.

They're not much more expensive. Sure, the first purchase is expensive. Personally, I'm happy right now with my stock rotors. No slots, no goofy cross-drilled holes, just solid, V stopping goodness...

UnsafeAtAnySpd · #52 (**permalink**) 07-04-09, 12:48 AM

Ti shims help as well. I can get a discount code if anyone is interested.

thebigjimsho · #53 (**permalink**) 07-04-09, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnsafeAtAnySpd

Ti shims help as well. I can get a discount code if anyone is interested.

Where were you when I bought mine?

UnsafeAtAnySpd · #54 (**permalink**) 07-04-09, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thebigjimsho

Where were you when I bought mine?

There's room in there for another set.

SoJersey05V · #55 (**permalink**) 07-04-09, 12:18 PM

where did you get those from.. i want to get a set when i do my brakes next.

darkman · #56 (**permalink**) 07-04-09, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnsafeAtAnySpd

Ti shims help as well. I can get a discount code if anyone is interested.

I'm interested.

Paisan · #57 (**permalink**) 07-04-09, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAIIIC

From what I've seen they're more expensive than conventional rotors, though, and that doesn't even take into account the initial $850 to get the full rotor/hat setup. There may be other vehicles for which there are more common (read: cheaper) rotor sections, but 14" rotor sections just aren't that cheap.

Don't get me wrong, I like 2-piece rotors. I have them for track duty on my Subaru, and on that application it looks like the original rotor sections are going to last damn near forever. But that's a 3200#, underpowered/slow car that's easy on brakes, not a 4000# behemoth that's trying to haul itself down from 130-140mph.

For my track car, a 300hp+ Subaru running brembos, I get blanks for about $70/each and burn em up in roughly 5-7 track days and about 10k street miles. The car weighs easily 3500lbs. I've priced out blanks for the V and they aren't much more expensive, so I'll stick with those. However this thread is about brake ducts.... Which will help longevity of the pads and rotors imensley, no matter which rotors you run.

-mike

ctsv154 · #58 (**permalink**) 07-04-09, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnsafeAtAnySpd

Ti shims help as well. I can get a discount code if anyone is interested.

I've had the Ti shims for years. They help. I bought mine used off ebay. How much are they new?

darkman · #59 (**permalink**) 07-04-09, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctsv154

I've had the Ti shims for years. They help. I bought mine used off ebay. How much are they new?

http://tispeed.com/index.php?main_pa...products_id=30

rjoffe · #60 (**permalink**) 07-04-09, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paisan

For my track car, a 300hp+ Subaru running brembos, I get blanks for about $70/each and burn em up in roughly 5-7 track days and about 10k street miles. The car weighs easily 3500lbs. I've priced out blanks for the V and they aren't much more expensive, so I'll stick with those. However this thread is about brake ducts.... Which will help longevity of the pads and rotors imensley, no matter which rotors you run.

-mike

Got any links to the V components?