Friends don't let friends drive with bad motor mounts...

[jnrandall]

lunarx, the other one was pretty bad as well. Both appeared to have dirt or something in them. I should have taken a photo of the good ones next to the bad for comparison.

[ewill3rd]

Homer got some new ones yesterday.

They were almost as bad as trukk's... not quite but close.

[L.Sanchez]

I was wondering about this. My car shakes pretty bad when i turn it off. I am beginning to dislike my dealer though. They seem look for ways of NOT fixing my car. My TCS system isn't working because i can't access the competitive mode or stability only and they said that was "normal" till I pointed it out in the book that they were wrong. Whatever...I'll take it in after I take a look for leaks around the mounts.

Ladis

[ewill3rd]

Did they fix the competitive driving issue? It was after the radio was replaced wasn't it?

[Black Sunshine]

So, need I ask, you's guy that have destroyed your mounts, are ya just a lil hard on the car?

I am having the same trouble since they replaced my radio. I can get it to change every once in a while but I have to screw with it a lil.

What's the cause/fix, pray tell?

[ewill3rd]

If they didn't program the radio correctly it will not know it is in a CTS-V and it won't go into competitive mode.
The controls are different on the base CTS.
It is a simple Tech 2 recalibration, takes only a few minutes.

[trukk]

Originally Posted by Black Sunshine

So, need I ask, you's guy that have destroyed your mounts, are ya just a lil hard on the car?

Hmm, I do not think I am necesarilly hard on the car, however I do drive in a spirited manner. I don't do clutch dumps, wind out every gear, etc. I will say that my car is a DD. It's not a grage queen, and I drive it to have fun on my commute.

Unfortunately, someone at Cadillac, decided this car needed MOHR RUBBER BUSHINGS. That is the root of so much of our problems. I am slowly working to replace or mitigate the damage that these poor design decisions cause.

This car needs about 5% more, to make it absolutely fantastic, and very reliable. Overall I am VERY satisfied with this car.

My checklist:

• New motor mounts
• New tranny mounts
• New diff mount
• New cradle mounts
• Replace dual mass flywheel
• Stabilize cradle
• Strengthen diff case and half shafts ('06+)

Once that is done, I think this car will be very solid for what I want out of it.

-Chris

[qweegybo]

Originally Posted by trukk

This car needs about 5% more, to make it absolutely fantastic, and very reliable. Overall I am VERY satisfied with this car.

My checklist:

• New motor mounts
• New tranny mounts
• New diff mount
• New cradle mounts
• Replace dual mass flywheel
• Stabilize cradle
• Strengthen diff case and half shafts ('06+)

Once that is done, I think this car will be very solid for what I want out of it.

-Chris

Hey Chris, the parts you've replaced... can you list the manufacturers of each part and price of each. I'm just trying to get a good idea of what its going to cost to get my V up to par and reliable without worrying about the little problems. Also please include any negative you've noticed from each aftermarket part you have replaced. If you don't want to post it on here for whatever reason can you please e-mail me. Qweegybo@hotmail.com

thanks fror the advice

[ctsv154]

At least post up the parts and places. I'm sure others would like to know as well! Thanks

[trukk]

Originally Posted by trukk

Hmm, I do not think I am necesarilly hard on the car, however I do drive in a spirited manner. I don't do clutch dumps, wind out every gear, etc. I will say that my car is a DD. It's not a grage queen, and I drive it to have fun on my commute.

Unfortunately, someone at Cadillac, decided this car needed MOHR RUBBER BUSHINGS. That is the root of so much of our problems. I am slowly working to replace or mitigate the damage that these poor design decisions cause.

This car needs about 5% more, to make it absolutely fantastic, and very reliable. Overall I am VERY satisfied with this car.

My checklist:

• New motor mounts
• New tranny mounts
• New diff mount
• New cradle mounts
• Replace dual mass flywheel
• Stabilize cradle
• Strengthen diff case and half shafts ('06+)

Once that is done, I think this car will be very solid for what I want out of it.

-Chris

In response to the 2 previous posts. I have good news and bad news. Some of the parts listed above are available Most aren't .

• Motor and tranny mounts: are still no show from UUC. I bug luke about them every 2 weeks or so, because *SHOCKERS* I need new motor mounts again (in another post, I hypothosised that this is because I heel-toe / rev-match in daily driving, and I think that does a number on the mounts).
• Diff Mount: There are none readilly available that I'm aware of. I think Mallet has one, but it's not available for individual putrchse (ponyup for their $6k wheel hop solution, and you get it from free!). UUC is also supposed to be working on these, however they are further out than the motor/tranny mounts.
• Craddle Mounts: The craddle mounts are pressed into the craddle in such a way, that you have to burn them out. No one to my knowledge makes any replacement bushings for the rear craddle. Spectre Werks and Lingenfleter make bushing inserts, which help to stiffen up the overall bushing a bit. Cadillac included a less well engineered version of those spacers on the '06/'07's, and you can get them added on the '04/'05's (via a TSB). Neither of the GM inserts do much of anything. The '04/'05's squeek so bad you'll either have them removed in a month, or you'll gougue out your eardrums with a rustly awl.
• Repalce Dual Mass Flywheel: There are a lot of options for this. UUC is the only company that I'm aware of that makes a true repalcement lighened flywheel, all the others require a spacer kit to also be purchased ( I know TPIS makes a spacer kit, I'm sure some other company's do as well).If you want to stay with a GM flywheel, you can use the LS7, or C5Z06 flywheel, and loose a bunch of wieght, while retaining factory tolerances (i.e. not too agressive). Spec, Fidanza, Textrallia, TPIS, Lingenfelter etc. all make lightened flywheels that can be used with the spacer kit. Some are steel, some are aluminum. The lighter you go, the faster the car will rev, and the car will accellerate faster (to a degree). Making the FW lighter, also makes rev matching a lot easier. The downside, is it makes low RPM starts from a start more difficult (have to slip the clutch a bit more), and drag type launches/acceleration are hurt by the lessened mass of the lightened, FW.
• Stabilize Craddle: The only easily available kit out for this right now is the BMR AWHK. It works OK. You should definately also get the pinion support. This definalely will introduce noise into the cabin, so be prepared. The KARS III is more robust than the BMR kit, however it is no longer being made (at least at this time). You will have to score one of those used (and they are hard to find).
• Diff Case & Half Shafts: There are a millsion threads on this one. In a nut shell, there have not really been any homerun solutions to this. there have been a couple one off cobra 8.8 IRS installs. Kars offered a C4 (or was is C3, I always forget) Dana 60 swap out. 2 cars ghot this prior to Kars stopping production (caost appros $6500). Madman from Thunder Racing has a kit, which runs about $9k, that a few have utilized. Nutz & CustomGear (see the billet diff thread) are currently working on a billet steel direct repalcement diff. It looks promising, but is still under development. Finally TTS posed about retrofitting an '09 cast iron diff (with it's entire cradle) into a G1 V. More details about it are still pending, however it looks to be between $6-9k in cost. Thus no homerun on this problem. The halpf asheft are a smore simple problem. Untill the other bits get beefed up, no one seems to be snapping the '06+ cts-v hald shafts (the '04/'05's where smaller).

Hope this helps. If I had the answers, i wouldn't hold out on them

-Chris

[MWD]

Originally Posted by trukk

Motor and tranny mounts: are still no show from UUC. I bug luke about them every 2 weeks or so, because *SHOCKERS* I need new motor mounts again (in another post, I hypothosised that this is because I heel-toe / rev-match in daily driving, and I think that does a number on the mounts).

Hmm... I would think the opposite... rev-matching should reduce the shock load on downshifts a bunch.

Spirited driving however is just going to add more high load cycles to the bushings every time you are on the throttle or upshift in anger.

Michael

[trukk]

Originally Posted by MWD

Hmm... I would think the opposite... rev-matching should reduce the shock load on downshifts a bunch.

Spirited driving however is just going to add more high load cycles to the bushings every time you are on the throttle or upshift in anger.

Michael

I hear that, but rev matching has got to do it to.

Pop the hood and watch, while someone blip's the engine, and see how much it moves. Imagine that every single shift.

-Chris

[CTSV_510]

Originally Posted by trukk

I hear that, but rev matching has got to do it to.

Pop the hood and watch, while someone blip's the engine, and see how much it moves. Imagine that every single shift.

-Chris

I have to agree with trukk here.

[djmodifyd]

I had my motor mounts replaced due to the fact that it shook quite a bit when i shut it off. I got them all replaced and its like a WHOLE NEW CAR! so smooooth

[MWD]

Originally Posted by trukk

I hear that, but rev matching has got to do it to.

Pop the hood and watch, while someone blip's the engine, and see how much it moves. Imagine that every single shift.

-Chris

Don't make me break out the diagrams and do the math.

Michael