2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V General Discussion Discussion, CTS-V switched Accessory power in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; The information about moving the fuses for the two accessory outlets to change from constant power to ignition switched power ...
The information about moving the fuses for the two accessory outlets to change from constant power to ignition switched power does not work on the CTS-V. When the fuses are moved there is no power on the outlets at any time. Also the info about the 10 min. timeout on these outlets is not applicable to the CTS-V. My combined CTS/CTS-V owners manual does not mention either the fuse move or the timeout. I hard wired my RADAR detector in by picking up switched power from the fuse block under the rear seat. Since the factory service manual for the 2004 CTS is still not available, I had no way to know which wire to tap into, so I made the connection to the hot side of a switched fuse. I will probably move the connection to a wire tap when I get a service manual.
...My combined CTS/CTS-V owners manual does not mention either the fuse move or the timeout...
Both outlets in my 2004 stayed lit all the time and went dead when I moved the fuses. My car also came with the same combined manual that makes no mention of being able to switch power outlet modes. However, while moving the fuses back and forth, I noticed that the "Cigar Relay Mini" was missing. Seeing that it was obviously the same form factor as several of the other relays in the box, I picked one up and popped it in. Both outlets now work as described by others.
The GM part number for the relay is: 12177234 (written right on the top of the relay itself, along with Omron 7234), dealer quoted ~$21, but available for ~$7 from GMPartsDirect.com. Autozone had a cross-referenced GP-Sorenson part for ~$18, but its quality looked a little dodgy.
...sounds like a slipstreamed backwards step to appease everybody but the customer... It's interesting to note that without the relay installed, installing the fuses according to the diagram on the inside of my fuse box cover results in dead sockets (My diagram shows the 20A "I/P Outlet" to the right and the 30A "Outlet" to the left).
For a point of reference, my car is a 2004 1SB (non-V) and I took delivery in Jan '04.
Each of the interior outlets can be changed from a battery feed to a switched ignition feed. (One is the cigar lighter in the ashtray, the other is the auxiliary outlet in the rear of the center console.
I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to ask a question before digging around in my fuse-box. Both my outlets are on switched-ignition right now. I wondered if anyone knew if I can switch only the rear outlet to a battery feed, leaving the front one switched-ignition?