2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Appearance Mods Discussion, Bose system, amp, front speakers in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Bose speakers individually run at a much lower impedance than traditional speakers. Meaning, when you simply plug in a normal ...
Bose speakers individually run at a much lower impedance than traditional speakers. Meaning, when you simply plug in a normal speaker to the wires where a Bose once existed it will only be drawing a fraction of the power the Bose did--which wasn't much in the first place.
The best thing to do is find an amp with high level inputs (the kind that you can plug speakers wires into instead of RCA's), tap into the speaker wires coming out of the stock amp in the trunk, and run those lines to the new amp and run your own speaker wires to new speakers throughout the car.
Edit: The term 'best' may be used loosely. That is the best, most cost effective method I would use. Otherwise you can buy a bunch of expensive equipment like the JL Cleansweep and consider that the 'best'.
I would just run a 2 channel amp and run a pair of 2ohm components off it such as the Infinity Kappas. Going price on those was about $130 on ebay 3 years ago and they're damn impressive. They're in my other car and I am missing them quite a bit. 100w rms a side is good. Obviously they have their own crossover. You'd have to study a better resolution copy of that wiring diagram to find out where to tap into the full signal front right and left wires. I'd probably leave the rear sound stage as is. No need for a 4 channel amp. Good luck.
A couple of things to consider no matter what aftermarket devices u choose.
The Xover between the mids and sub is 100hz. This is pretty high for most folks and really puts a load in the sub. But it does help on the midranges because mounting depth in the doors is pretty limited.
The rear output of the amp gives you 100hz and up so you can put an LOC on the rears and get 100hz and up.
On the clean sweep option... I know several owners have used it with no issues but I couldn't get the gains tweaked consistently during setup. I suspected that i may have a bad cleansweep so i bought another to make sure it was not the issue And both units demonstrated the same behavior.
If you are considering adding the Jlsignal summing interface with the clean sweep don't bother. The issues with gain I mentioned are further complicated when adding the SSI.
Another route you don't want to go is the JBL MS8. It un-eqs the amp output and then re-eqs them based upon mic measurements. However because our cars have a ton of midbass gain the MS8 runs out of processing power before it gets the signal fully leveled.
IMO - to get good sound with a decent feature set (Bluetooth and IPod integration) you need to go to an aftermarket head unit. The problem then becomes losing the DIC.
To make beneficial mods to the current audio system and stay under $500 I would just add a good sub with external amp.
If you want the next level of performance you are going to spend quite a bit more. Think $2000+
I know these comments sound pessimistic but I have been there and done that with my V. Also, I am an electrical engineer that installed stereos professionally in college and I am involved in sound quality competitions with this car. I've done aftermarket systems in every car I have ever owned and even considering all of the systems I installed while working in a shop this one has been the biggest PIA.
sssnake if you were to just upgrade the sub and amp what would be the route you would take? I think that is my plan as I just would like a little more low end bump. I would ideally like to pull the stock one out and use the stock location as well. what equipment amp etc would you suggest?
The stocker is an 8" if I remember correctly and very low profile. If you are not worried about the woofer sticking down into the trunk the just about any 8" will work with a little trimming.
My suggestion would be to pick up the sub amp output (it is connected to the stock sub) and a good quality sub amp with speaker level inputs or just use a line output converter. There are a ton of good sub amps out there but I am partial to the JL Audio HD series and the Alpine PDX (second generation). But really either of those amps is likely too strong for a single 8".
If you stay with an 8" I would go for the Alpine SWR-823D but IMO a single 12" infinite baffle with a small mounting baffle below and firing through the stock opening is a better solution. Two layers of 3/4" MDF with the woofer bottom mounted should give you enough clearance and will help to strengthen the rear deck and eliminate/reduce rattles. Be careful though because you have electronics top mounted on the rear deck. That would likely give you a ton of bass and support any future mods you might make to the fronts.
I think the stock sub is somewhere between 8-10". It's definitely larger than on 8" and a 10 seems to fit the rear opening nicely. A 12" would likely require some cutting. A simple MDF baffle in place of the plastic baffle used for the Bose sub should support a 10" and not hang down into the trunk too low. Some dampening of the rest of the necessary items on the rear deck will help with rattles. Don't put it all back together until you've thoroughly tested for rattles with all types of music.
Also note that an open-air/IB sub can easily over-exert itself and cause distortion and even damage. So if you have a girlfriend who gets excited when "her song" comes on and slams the volume up, be sure to keep your pimp hand strong.
That would be simplest. I'm a little unsatisfied with my open-air setup. I'm thinking of making some sort of enclosure to fit around the base of the sub and fix to the underside of the rear deck. I'm wondering if liquid nails would do the trick.