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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Appearance Mods Discussion, Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights. in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Originally Posted by stepchild21 Just would like to say ( completely opinionated) but 55w have been known to burn lenses ...
  1. #121
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights.

    Quote Originally Posted by stepchild21 View Post
    Just would like to say ( completely opinionated) but 55w have been known to burn lenses and projectors. And makes them foggy. I'd stick with 35w. And 6000k is more of a white. Definitly extremely bright. I had 10,000k 8000k and now I'm at 6000k and absolutely love it.
    You're not going to burn glass projectors.

  2. #122
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    Valid point. I retract my statement

  3. #123
    etcts-v's Avatar
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    Just like to add that I wish I would have gone more in the 4k to 5k range, I have 6000k on everything and it's too blue IMO.

  4. #124
    1percenter is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights.

    looks real nice!!! wonder how it works slightly tinted

  5. #125
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights.

    Quote Originally Posted by stepchild21 View Post
    Sorry I honestly didnt even think of taking pics while she was all apart. I was kinda head down ass up trying to get it done before the storm rolled up.

    But I can say which wires I sodered together, because their is some slight wiring changes that need to be made.

    Headlight PS. Car headlight PS
    -blue(low beam) -tan (low beam)
    -white(high beam). -green (high beam)
    -tan (drl)(halos). -brown (drl halos)
    -black (ground - black/ black (ground)

    **** Cts v wiring harness has 2 ground wire for hids. So I this is why I sodered all my connections so that I could utilize both grounds. Most likey not necessary but I wanted to play it safe.

    Headlight DS Car headlight DS
    -blue (low beam). - yellow (low beam)
    -white (high beam). - green (high beam)
    -tan (drl/ halo) - purple (drl/halo)
    - black (ground). - black/ black (grounds)


    *** also plug off the washer hoses that were going to the stock headlights as the new ones will not have that option.***

    Hope this helps
    Did you have trouble with the connector tabs retracting into the casing when you tried to plug the car's wiring harness into the headlight? After checking your list, you don't need to swap around wires unless you want to double up on the ground wires.

    I have a 12VDC power supply that I've been using to test everything--the ballasts and bulbs are obviously operational because they light when I connect directly to the wires, but when I plug the thing into the car, the dashboard light illuminates but the bulbs don't. I wonder if it's necessary to wire both grounds together after all.

  6. #126
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    Yes my tabs kept retracting that's why I soldered mine together. And I kept all my original male and female plugs Incase I go back to oem. The wiring diagram is just Incase someone else needs to go this route aswell.

  7. #127
    stepchild21's Avatar
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    And since I was soldering anyway I used both ground wires. So I can't be certain if you NEED both or not.

  8. #128
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    I had same problem, also just soldered mine. I tried some Seam sealer to get the damn tab to stop pushing in but it didn't work.

  9. #129
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights.

    Mmkay. Well, I have the halos and high beams operational, but the DDM 55w Raptor ballasts aren't firing despite testing them inside with a 12VDC power supply. I suspect that I may have hooked up the ballasts incorrectly. When I was inside the house, I just swapped around the leads once or twice to get them to light up, but now, it appears that something is wrong.

    Question: on the inside of the headlamp, there was a hardwired incandescent bulb that the headlight shipped with. When I installed the DDM ballasts, I snipped those wires and spliced the blue one to the red wire input on the DDM ballasts and the black to the black. Then I mounted the ballast to the spot where you normally have your D1S HID ballast and ran the ballast's output directly to the HID bulbs. Do you see anything wrong with that? This must be a wiring issue, but I'm open to any suggestions. It's certainly possible that I still don't have those connector tabs in quite as far as they should be.

    Edit: Preview:


  10. #130
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    Re: Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights.

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Mmkay. Well, I have the halos and high beams operational, but the DDM 55w Raptor ballasts aren't firing despite testing them inside with a 12VDC power supply. I suspect that I may have hooked up the ballasts incorrectly. When I was inside the house, I just swapped around the leads once or twice to get them to light up, but now, it appears that something is wrong.

    Question: on the inside of the headlamp, there was a hardwired incandescent bulb that the headlight shipped with. When I installed the DDM ballasts, I snipped those wires and spliced the blue one to the red wire input on the DDM ballasts and the black to the black. Then I mounted the ballast to the spot where you normally have your D1S HID ballast and ran the ballast's output directly to the HID bulbs. Do you see anything wrong with that? This must be a wiring issue, but I'm open to any suggestions. It's certainly possible that I still don't have those connector tabs in quite as far as they should be.


    I don't see anything wrong with it but if you are having issues with them firing I would hit a Multimeter on that line and make sure the wiring is correct, most likely its the connector tabs aren't pushed in all the way that is causing the issue.

    The factory wiring has larger gauge wires running for the HID bulbs as they should. I'm fairly confident these aftermarket headlights have smaller gauge wires running inside the housing due to the non-hid setup they ship with, so if you are running a splice from the wiring inside the housing out to the ballasts then you are going from larger gauge factory wiring to smaller gauge wiring to the ballast, do you follow? Personally I bypassed that non sense, I clipped the factory wiring (large Gauge) from the factory harness and ran directly to the ballasts before going into the housing, then I ran the outputs of the ballasts directly to the bulbs.

  11. #131
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights.

    I may have to do that. The obvious downside is that removing the headlights will be even more of a pain ik the future.

  12. #132
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    Re: Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights.

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    I may have to do that. The obvious downside is that removing the headlights will be even more of a pain ik the future.
    I attached my low beam ballast to the car and the Halo ballast to the underside of the light (where the stock D1S ballast was) so all I have to do when removing my headlight is unplug the factory harness from the back and remove the HID bulb which isn't very difficult.

  13. #133
    bubbolootz is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights.

    Let me get this straight, do you have to source out a non-hid headlamp connector from a base cts to use for these headlamps and rewire them to the v harness correct?

  14. #134
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    Re: Cts v dual halo aftermarket headlights.

    Quote Originally Posted by bubbolootz View Post
    Let me get this straight, do you have to source out a non-hid headlamp connector from a base cts to use for these headlamps and rewire them to the v harness correct?
    No. Where did you get that idea?

  15. #135
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    Actually that's not a bad idea, that way the tabs on the connectors would go together properly. And not get pushed in from them being different sizes. That way it would stay a plug and play system.

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