Not to tease you guys, especially shadybx7, but got two boxes plunked down in my driveway this morning ... Labor Day weekend, no less! ... and just had to post up some pics. There're better looking than I had thought they would be. Gorgeous, in fact.
I'll get 'em on the car next Wednesday or Thursday and post up some more pics.
Two boxes, one of each size wheel in each box:
Double boxed for protection:
Don't know how others do it, but these come with a shower-cap-type protector on them:
Slip the cover off, and they look great (I left the center cap in the box):
Now, trying to imagine them on my car:
I'll order tires this weekend and get them mounted and on the car next week some time. I'll post up more pics at that time.
I hate to be critical here.... Cause I could never afford these beautiful wheels....
But dont they look a bit small on the car? The stock wheel and tire combo filled out the wheel well nice. Now there is a bit of a gap. I think this is very opinion based, but the thicker spokes on the stock wheels just seem to match up with the car better.
Of corse this is why I own my own car, and can do anything I want to it.....
I thought I noticed that gap, too. The tires are suppose to have nearly the same diameter as stock size, so not sure whether that "gap" is just an illusion or what.
I'm not a fan of silver, but every time I see a Platinum V I think how good it looks. My theory is that it's the classic lines of a V1 and being clean makes a huge impact.
Thought I heard some rubbing back there, so pulled over (still on blacktop) and reached around to the inside of the rear tire. (As background, when I had the SS brake lines installed, one line had been rubbing the inner lip of the OEM wheel, so I thought maybe that was occurring again.) I haven't backed up on my Rhino ramps yet, but from what I could feel, I'm not sure I could get a dollar bill to slip between the wheel and the trailing arm. It seemed that tight.
As soon as it stops raining around here (in four more days), I'll do just that and post up some pics of the clearance there.
Randy, are you looking too sell your stock wheels by chance , mine have some slight curb rash on two of them and would like to buy a set , let me know thanks .....Nick
Randy, are you looking too sell your stock wheels by chance , mine have some slight curb rash on two of them and would like to buy a set , let me know thanks .....Nick
Backed the car up on the ramps and took the best pic I could. Hope this shows up okay.
The good news is that they clear the trailing arm okay. The not-so-good news is that they don't clear by much ... maybe 3-4 mm (~1/8"). Saw no rubbing marks on inside lip of wheel.
The larger of these two pieces of cardboard would not fit. The smaller did.
Aggressive Street Front: -1.0 degrees negative Camber
As much Positive caster as you can get without sacrificing camber.
Neutral (0) Toe to 1/32" Toe IN Each, 1/16" Total Max. [1/32" Toe in = +0.03 deg]
Aggressive Street Rear:
-1.5 degrees Negative Camber
1/8" Toe IN Each, 1/4" Total Toe IN [1/8" Toe in = +0.12 deg] Rear Toe should never be Toe out (negative)
All else being equal, stock camber on the rear is -0.5 deg compared with the -1.5 deg mine is suppose to have. That might be the difference between rubbing and not rubbing.
Definitely want to see clearance with the MAP arms.
Forum research has led me to believe that the cars come from the factory with less clearance on the passenger trailing arm then the driver trailing arm. With the small amount of clearance we are working with, I think it comes down to bushings and minute tolerances. Some are just lucky to have that extra few mm that make the difference between rubbing and not rubbing.
I did not have to remove the brake caliper or rotor. If you remove the lower shock mounting bolt (or upper either one) the lower control arm will drop far enough to remove the rear trailing arm mounting bolt. Thats if your bolt is facing away from the rotor. (nut toward rotor) I didn't change the trailing arm bushings, my factory ones are fine. (car has 13,000 miles) Make sure you have a grinder and a torque wrench. Good luck.
You said 1/8" Toe in = +0.12 deg right? The spec says 0.20 degrees + OR - 0.20 degrees so ZERO would
be what you want. Right? The reason you want toe-in is so when you are in motion, whatever play/slop
in the suspension will bring the toe to zero. Older car, worn parts, high mileage=more toe in. Thats why
the +-0.20 spec. If 1/8" is +0.12 deg then you are right in the middle. Is that right?
Thats not right...1/4" wouldn't = 0.24 deg..would it? We awalys measured toe in inches not degrees.
The FAQ says, "[1/8" Toe in = +0.12 deg]." I just copied it directly from the FAQ.
You're absolutely right about the need to set a toe in in order to accommodate suspension compliance while the vehicle is in motion. And, though I haven't physically done an alignment in nearly fifty years myself, I do recall the units of measure for toe in was in inches not degrees. Things change, and I am in no way an expert in this stuff.
Well, where are we then? Why do some rub and some don't? As long as mine doesn't, I'm good.
I think it all comes down to alignment. Wheeldude had to cut it so close on the backspace to fit a 10 inch wheel
and whatever alignment specs were on the doner car he got his measurements from, who knows. I don't know
if an alignment would have cured my rubbing issues cuz I installed the MAP arms first, then got an alignment.
My car had never had an alignment, only the quickie one at the factory so I really don't know what the
settings were when it was rubbing. My bushings and ball joints have very low miles so I doubt its from
worn parts. When you gona install your arms Kid? This weekend? Where you live, I'll come help you........
... Wheeldude had to cut it so close on the backspace to fit a 10 inch wheel
and whatever alignment specs were on the doner car he got his measurements from, who knows. ...
Makes you wonder how scientific that process was. Definitely want a doner car that's been aligned, I'd think, and one that's not been modified back there. Then, you'd apply some safety margin to encompass production variations. They seemed to have cut it close all right.
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