The first time I painted my grill I used a bunch of different shit like bulldog (chrome adhesive) like 3 coats of primer, a bunch of coats of paint and a bunch of clear. about 2 months into it the paint started chipping and getting worse and worse and worse. A lot of people have been using the plasti dip so I thought, hey.... i'd give it a try. The second time was a lot faster because I knew how to take everything off and bla bla bla. About 3 cans later just to be on the safer side. So that's about 25$ worth of plasti dip and sandpaper which is $5. And water for the sandpaper to wet sand everything..... Priceless. Also I used about 4-5 coats on each piece
Here are some before pictures
And After......... I used a wire brush which is shown in one of the pictures to get as much of the older paint as I could off of the mesh grill part. This plasti dip seems to stick to pretty much anything though
The front sway? What did you do for the rear? AAIIIC had Andy Pilgrim drive his V and I think the consensus was it plowed a little too much. I wonder if Pat ever removed his Hotchkis front sway...
The front sway? What did you do for the rear? AAIIIC had Andy Pilgrim drive his V and I think the consensus was it plowed a little too much. I wonder if Pat ever removed his Hotchkis front sway...
Jim I only changed the front bar, SCCA stock class will not allow for a rear bar. The car fells great my little test track of clover leafs on I-20 here in Atlanta yielded some nice G readings on my beat up AS tires. I am going Bridgestone RE-11 staggered next weekend so I hope the bar helps out. Car is stock other than the Hotchkins and the scandalous cross drilled rotors. My wife is getting my DHM low profiles for V-day so I can put a card in the spokes when I need it to sound faster than it is. I love this car!
Back on topic. Here are the pictures I hope. Having some sizing problems on the iPad.
Side marker, fogs, badges and reverse lights have been tinted with Oracle 8300 dark smoke. Glass is 3m carbon tint or something legal tint level for Ga 20 or 30 whichever is lighter. Grill and wheels are dipped. By the way it was near freezing when I did the dipping. No issues at all.
Damn it, size issues on the pictures again. Let me see if I can fix it.
Jim I only changed the front bar, SCCA stock class will not allow for a rear bar. The car fells great my little test track of clover leafs on I-20 here in Atlanta yielded some nice G readings on my beat up AS tires. I am going Bridgestone RE-11 staggered next weekend so I hope the bar helps out. Car is stock other than the Hotchkins and the scandalous cross drilled rotors. My wife is getting my DHM low profiles for V-day so I can put a card in the spokes when I need it to sound faster than it is. I love this car!
[...]
By stiffening up the front with the front Hotchkiss anti-sway bars, without stiffening the rear with the accompanying rear anti-sway bars, you introduced more understeer into the chassis than when it was stock. By then adding a staggered set of tires (assuming you are fitting the wider rubber in the rear and not the front), you will further introduce more understeer to the chassis.
So, if by 'help out' you mean 'help your car understeer more', then, yes, they most certainly will.
Jim I only changed the front bar, SCCA stock class will not allow for a rear bar. The car fells great my little test track of clover leafs on I-20 here in Atlanta yielded so nice G readings on my beat up AS tires. I am going Bridgestone RE-11 staggered nex week end so I hope the bar helps out. Car is stock Luther than the Hotchkins and the scandalous cross drilled rotors. My wife is getting my DHM low profiles for V-day so I can put s card in the spokes when I need it to sound faster than it is. I love this car!
Back on topic. Here are the pictures I hope. Having some sizing problems on the iPad.
Side marker, fogs, badges and reverse lights have been timed with Oracle 8300 dark smoke. Grill and wheels are dipped. By the way it was near freezing when I did the dipping. No issues at all.
Damn it, size issues on the pictures again. Let me see if I can fix it.
So don't sell the stock bar just yet then. The car feels great no noticeable under steer in spirited driving. Power over steer was my problem last year so that is why I am going staggered.
Guys thanks for all of the input on the handling of the car. I have a lot to learn for sure. My driving style would only ever be called tidy by Ken Block, so pushing has never been an issue. I hope to go fast in FStock this year and win a few races. After this year I will move to a different class to allow for more mods as my CPO dries up. Till then I think the car is driving great and handling awesome. It probably has more to do with the dipped wheels than the sway bar... It got some looks today.
Does Plastidip makes a black gloss? I thought it was only Matte black. They have a clear, and i know they have a gloss add on type of thing, but that isn't the same as a gloss black, etc.
Hey well this is my grill after i hit it with about 5 coats of plasti dip...then 5 with the plasti dip glossifier and then 4 coats of just spray can clear. I've had it on for about a month now and hit up the highway to work everday...no chips or flaking yet, and it holds up to the drive through pressure washers.
Grills installed today and I got her running finally! Ill see how they hold up, so far so good. Im hoping to smoke the brake lights and such here soon but debating if it might be too much black.... And yes plasti dip is basically as good as gold, I just sprayed my 350Zs wheels with it and it is holding up great!
* please excuse the dirty car, its been being brought back to life, tomorrow ill get clean shots of her I was just too excited to wait!
I had to chose from 8URZ06 from my cobra or those. so I decided those would be better, I cant touch a Z06.... Yet.... and it was better on a ford haha, but I came to the dark side! So now my z06 plates are retired
For those of you that did your grills, did you remove them from your car, or spray the, while still on the car? Going to be doing this mod this week, just wondering the easiest route.
Would definitely recommend removing them from the car. Its a pain in the ass to block the over spray. Also if you leave them on you have to be careful about taping off the surrounding area. If you wait til the stuff drys to peel off the paint it will pull off chunks from the grille also. If you remove both it will be much easier
When I did mine I took it off the car...but it took some time and was a pain to take off the whole front end...unless someone has a better way of getting the grill off. If I were to do it again I definitely would just take the time to prep the car with tape and news paper and just spray it with it on the car. I did my headlights and and running lights as well (kinda the only reason why I decided to take it off.)
taped it off since i was doing the lower bumper piece as well.. put some card board behind the grill, you dont want rubber in the rad.. paint on a windless day, less chance for overspray
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