[dochawk]

Originally Posted by submariner409

Judging by the picture, and the amount of time the car sat, you need to replace the points, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, pull the carb and totally overhaul it because all the gaskets, seals, leather pump cups, etc. are toast. Coolant change. Oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter.

I have all of these, ready to go. I'll get a float, too, and I have the coolant flush stuff, woo.

Might as well replace all belts, too.

Yep, have those all sitting in the trunk.

Pull everything apart, seal it up, and use Gunk engine cleaner, then start from scratch.

I'll bet that every rubber vacuum line needs replacement, too.

The rubber doesn't look very good, no. After driving a few miles today, one of them was making hissing-spurting sounds.

How do I use gunk? Put it in the tank, or is it a spray.

If that box in question is also attached to the side of the air filter housing, some sort of early rocker cover/crankcase ventilation system, and would make no difference in emissions UNLESS the flow was controlled by a rattle-type PCV valve, which would connect through a 5/8" ID rubber hose to a tit on the carb front base.

I don't think there are any hoses that big to the carb, but I'll check.

I've run into another problem. In the spec sheets for the rebuild, it shows different measurements for 1st Type and 2d & 3d types for the 1972 500. They're different for Float level (+1/32) and front vacuum break (-5/64). There is a footnote for 1st type "These applications have a secondary metering rod of 27/32. Fig V." It has no hint as to what the measurement is on the 2d/3d types. How do I figure out which to use?

(Out of curiosity, would I get the power boost if I used the 71 numbers rather than the 72, or was that a different carburetor? Are there other differences leading to the drop in power?).

Finally, this can of carburetor cleaner says that cast iron parts should be coated with penetrating oil to prevent flash rusting. Does this apply to me?

thanks

hawk