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9K views 6 replies 7 participants last post by  Joseph22cadillacdeville 
#1 · (Edited)
Many thanks to Sjashbrook for posting feedback concerning replacement of a Catera heater control valve. :worship:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367&highlight=heater+control+valve

My son owns a 1999 Catera and was experiencing a coolant leak at the rear of the engine. Using an inspection mirror, the location was found and referencing this forum identified it as the heater control valve.

Having recently been hit with a 1800.00 bill from the dealership for a faulty engine oil heat exchanger and a couple of minor oil leaks, he reluctantly called the dealer for pricing on changing the heater control valve. The quote had the job at $350.00 with the valve costing 78.95. :cookoo: The valve (GM Part# 90566947) can be purchased for 37.80 + 7.95 shipping for a grand total of 45.75 a savings of 33.00 right off the top.

While at first glance, replacement of the valve looks difficult. But in reality the valve can be removed in 20 minutes by a novice with no special tools and requires less disassembly then Sjashbrook mentioned.

1. Remove both windshield wiper arms.

2. Remove the cowl cover that covers the cabin air filter. This includes the left side. There are two clips on the passenger side and a torx screw on the driver's side. Under the lower windshield rubber molding you will find a series of what looks like plastic screws but are fasteners and only require a quarter turn and a pull up to remove. This will all allow you to remove the complete cowl cover.

3. Remove the passenger cabin filter and the bracket that holds the filter. There are two vacuum lines and two plastic nuts holding it in place. You will have to maneuver the filter holder to get it out but not a hard thing to do. Once this is out the rest is cake.

4. You will see an access door held in place by the same size plastic nut that held the cabin filter. Remove that and you will have all the access to the heater control valve you need.

5.The heater control valve on my son's car had no hold down bracket and was held in place only by the hoses connected to it. Remove the vacuum hose. The water hoses have the compression type clamps on them Use a nine-inch pair of channel locks to remove the clamps (they give you the reach you need) from the valve while holding the valve with the other hand placed through the access door. After all the clamps are moved from the valve, remove the hoses. You may need a small screwdriver to push between the hose and valve out to free the hose. After all the hose are removed simply remove the valve through the access door. Reverse procedure to reinstall valve.

***I would suggest replacing the compression hose clamps with the screw type.

We also did a complete brake job. Changed fuel filter, air filter, passenger compartment filter and oil and filter change. The front pad wear sensors needed to be replaced. Under 20.00 at GMPartsDirect.com but 43.00 at the dealer. :tisk:

One major lesson learned from this is whenever possible plan maintenance activities and order parts ahead of time to avoid dealer markup. Those jokers will rape you. :jawdrop: While the manuals are not detailed enough, they do put you in the right ballpark and help you to plan your maintenance activities.
I hope this helps someone. :grouphug:

Thanks again Sjashbrook!!!!!!!!! :2thumbs:

Now, all I need to do is just figure out why these damn brake lights aren't working. :hmm:
 
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#2 ·
thanks for posting this little bit of info..

I was worried about doing the job until i found your thread on the heater control valve, just replaced mine AGAIN the first time the shop did it.at about 800 and Quoted me 800 again.. This time I did. It was the easiest fix I have ever had to do. I spent more time getting my pre repair and post repair beers than the job............ Thanks
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the post. I ordered the valve from GM direct-saved about $30 and followed your instructions. It takes about 30 min to complete the job. I also replaced the spring hose clamps with the screw type. Much easier to replace the valve than I thought. Directions worked great-thanks again. Wonder what will go next, this forum has provided me with the information to replace many of the defective parts myself.
 
#4 ·
Good description on how to get this done.
Although it took me about four hours!... this does however include time taken to keep track my one year old running around in the parking lot, the trip to Advance Auto Parts to get the metric scoket to remove the wiper arms & the star screw on the drivers side, putting the baby to sleep then sneaking outside to finish up the job-- all before wife got off work....
Fixed that leak, now one more to work on- the overflowing reservoir tank, & the large radiator fan not coming on.
 
#6 ·
Regarding the brake lights not working, replacing the brake light switch under the brake pedal assembley should do the trick. Like everything else with this car, it's not that easy to get access, but it's worth a try. I replaced mine and avoided a $250 repair from the dealer by puchasing the part for $50 from the local dealer's parts department. The part is located under the brake pedal assemby next to another switch which is the parking release switch (pressing the brake in order to shift out of park).
 
#7 ·
Many thanks to Sjashbrook for posting feedback concerning replacement of a Catera heater control valve. :worship:
97 Catera, leaking coolant

My son owns a 1999 Catera and was experiencing a coolant leak at the rear of the engine. Using an inspection mirror, the location was found and referencing this forum identified it as the heater control valve.

Having recently been hit with a 1800.00 bill from the dealership for a faulty engine oil heat exchanger and a couple of minor oil leaks, he reluctantly called the dealer for pricing on changing the heater control valve. The quote had the job at $350.00 with the valve costing 78.95. :cookoo: The valve (GM Part# 90566947) can be purchased for 37.80 + 7.95 shipping for a grand total of 45.75 a savings of 33.00 right off the top.

While at first glance, replacement of the valve looks difficult. But in reality the valve can be removed in 20 minutes by a novice with no special tools and requires less disassembly then Sjashbrook mentioned.

1. Remove both windshield wiper arms.

2. Remove the cowl cover that covers the cabin air filter. This includes the left side. There are two clips on the passenger side and a torx screw on the driver's side. Under the lower windshield rubber molding you will find a series of what looks like plastic screws but are fasteners and only require a quarter turn and a pull up to remove. This will all allow you to remove the complete cowl cover.

3. Remove the passenger cabin filter and the bracket that holds the filter. There are two vacuum lines and two plastic nuts holding it in place. You will have to maneuver the filter holder to get it out but not a hard thing to do. Once this is out the rest is cake.

4. You will see an access door held in place by the same size plastic nut that held the cabin filter. Remove that and you will have all the access to the heater control valve you need.

5.The heater control valve on my son's car had no hold down bracket and was held in place only by the hoses connected to it. Remove the vacuum hose. The water hoses have the compression type clamps on them Use a nine-inch pair of channel locks to remove the clamps (they give you the reach you need) from the valve while holding the valve with the other hand placed through the access door. After all the clamps are moved from the valve, remove the hoses. You may need a small screwdriver to push between the hose and valve out to free the hose. After all the hose are removed simply remove the valve through the access door. Reverse procedure to reinstall valve.

***I would suggest replacing the compression hose clamps with the screw type.

We also did a complete brake job. Changed fuel filter, air filter, passenger compartment filter and oil and filter change. The front pad wear sensors needed to be replaced. Under 20.00 at GMPartsDirect.com but 43.00 at the dealer. :tisk:

One major lesson learned from this is whenever possible plan maintenance activities and order parts ahead of time to avoid dealer markup. Those jokers will rape you. :jawdrop: While the manuals are not detailed enough, they do put you in the right ballpark and help you to plan your maintenance activities.
I hope this helps someone. :grouphug:

Thanks again Sjashbrook!!!!!!!!! :2thumbs:

Now, all I need to do is just figure out why these damn brake lights aren't working. :hmm:
I use a regular 3/4 t instead of the control valve temporarily what would happen if I did?
 
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