Quote:
Originally Posted by p0ng0rs  If they didn't bleed it right that could be a problem.. or if it's just faulty parts.. I've seen bad parts come out of a brand new box too many times for comfort.. try diagnosing a problem when you replace a faulty master with a brand spankin new.. faulty.. master. then replace the slave.. then rebleed 4 times.. then mess with the clutch pedal assembly.. throw a bunch of things around in a fit of rage, and replace the master/slave/lines from a working car to find it works.. and reverse-engineer what happened down to the new master being also bad. ;( |
Dear god that does sound like endless fun worthy of a ticket booth and admission price.
I'll let the dealer take it apart and figure it out (was looking to for suggestions to guide them) whilst I surreptitiously slip in a UUC flywheel when they're not looking....
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-- UUC shifer/knob -- Tints -- Racing Pedals -- the wagon -- Hotchkis sways -- FG2s -- dyno tune -- Spoiler -- Magnaflows -- bunch of LEDs -- UUC Flywheel -- UUC SS Brake Lines (Red) -- Dynamat Extreme -- RT Hi-Flow Cats -- Speed Bleeders -- Adjustable endlings -- Custom cradle bushings -- UUC diff bushing -- P&P throttle body -- Maggie (2.8 pulley)
-- Snow Stage 2 METH - 474 HP/474 TQ (dynojet) -- Ground Control -- 160 TStat -- Crank Case Vent -- Solid MotorMounts -- Braille Battery