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Old 08-10-08, 03:52 AM
hyperboimmv hyperboimmv is offline
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Re: OnStar -> Bluetooth Conversion Completed!!!

Oye so it looks like I need to check in...

I am not sure what else to add for my install... A while ago I attached a PDF showing a small connector on the bose amp that needs to be accessed. It is on the very top of the amp if you are looking at the amp from the interior of the car (You will need to remove the rear seat bottom and back) and it is the smallest of the three connectors. You can get the audio +/- and data from this harness. Something I have ran into that is keeping me from completing my install is running wires under the carpet. I don't exactly want to / have the time to take what is needed out to lift the carpet and run my wires so that everything meets. I currently have a wire running from the ignition to my bluetooth module, and have tapped into that wire for the HyperStar board, and then I am using the CD Changer harness for power etc for the bluetooth module. Everything is currently stored in my center console. I am going to wait and see if I can find a better handsfree kit than the T605. I want to move all of the modules to the back, but the only problem I am having is that my mic wire isn't long enough. I am going to have to find a better mic that I can modify the harness on.

A few things to remember with the HyperStar:
The board does not actually control the hands free kit, nor does audio pass through it. It acts as a radio mute device only.
The radio does not control the volume of the call, so if your ringer is too loud, the audio will be distorted. If the call volume is too loud, the volume will be distorted. Use your phone to control the volume for both of these.
This module can be mounted anywhere you see fit, since it does not have a specific harness to hook into, you can run the single wire you need to interface with the car.

A few tips on install:
Make sure you have a battery charger. Even with the lights off and everything powered off, having the doors opened seemed to still cause my car to stay 'alert' so the battery eventually drained ( I suppose it didn't help that I worked off an on on this while looking up info etc)...
Removing the seat back is going to be tough. I am not sure what size socket you will need, as I didn't have one big enough. I used the tire iron... Make sure not to puncture your leather, so keep the edges covered with your hands at all times. The clips on the top of the back are going to be a pain. If I remember right, they are below the inner edges of the headrests. Find them with a plastic tool of some sort before poking around. Once you feel the metal, there is going to be a raised part and a lower part. You need to press down on the raised part to release the seat back.
You can run the wires along the amp harness and place the modules around in that area somewhere, there shouldn't be too much interference as long as you are away from the battery.
When putting it all back together, make sure to cover the seat back bolts with wd-40. They were a pain to get out, because the bottom portion is exposed on the underside of the body, but the wd-40 should take care of the rust and make it easier for them to go in.

A side note: For those picky people out there, while the seat back and bottom is out, you could get crumbs and what not out of the stitching and what not.

If anyone has any questions, let me know.. Hopefully I will be able to pay more attention to the board. Send me a PM if needed.